Surfing
in California
I originally came out here to check
out school in Oregon, but surf was also a concern. We came to California
in June 1996 to look for a job. I was lucky to find a job in my field
(geophysics) and happy to be living near the beach. I must always
remember the reasons I came hear and how lucky I am to live here at this
time in my life. I am not sure if I will always want to stay in San
Diego, because I still miss the old school spirit of surfing on the Great
Lakes. I imagine surfing here in the '60s would have been the same,
with more waves though.
The longer I stay the more at home
I feel and the more friends I find to go on dawn patrol with. Here
are some of the friends that I have enjoyed surfing with.
Sean and I at my old stomping
grounds
They say that there is always a New Years Swell, and we scored at our
secret spot. Just Walley and I from six until noon.
Wally Ausman, secret spot
Footwork
New Years Day Swell
This was a pretty gnarly day at Ponto. I sent this photo back to
my friends in Wisconsin, and this Charles Kaylor kook told everyone he
was sure I didn't make it. Well I have a witness for this one, and
I got covered up but good--Ye Haw
My local spot, Ponto Beach
I have a local spot, and I like to surf there most of the time, but some
times it is nice when a friend takes me some place a little more serious.
Seth and I enjoy Blacks Beach with all our clothes on.
Seth Crosby at Blacks
Blacks
We moved to Simi Valley for some time and so I surfed in Oxnard.
It was hard to score good surf because I lived 45 minutes from the beach.
Some times I got lucky, like this fast little wave in Oxnard
Oxnard
I got some great surf just before Oshean was born, but the photos stayed
in the camera for the last 5 months. Here I am at Camp Grounds, enjoying
some prebaby surf.
Carlsbad Campgrounds
Carlsbad Campgrounds
Carlsbad Campgrounds
Carlsbad Campgrounds
Some
California Surf Links
Some
California Weather Links