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It took
me nine months of relaxed preparation to allow for installation of both lockers
in just over one day of wrenching. Preparation included acquiring the spare diffs
and installing the e-locker wiring, compressor, fittings, air tank, switches, and all the
misc parts. Unless you have all the necessary tools and expertise to do
the gear setting, have the ARB installed into the diff at a shop like I did.
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Think
twice about attempting this unless you are very adventurous or a decent
shadetree mechanic. With that said, this was a
relatively straight forward installation thanks to all the great write-ups.
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Make sure your compressor and tank do not have any leaks before
plugging it to the ARB. The ARB compressor comes with all the fittings
needed for the locker, but I decided to go with a Viair 450 which puts out a
lot more air. Accordingly, I had to buy the dash switch (ARB) and pressure
switch (Viair) separately. When I ordered the ARB switch, they sent me
a compressor wiring diagram which included directions about how to use a
non-ARB compressor - ARB customer service impressed me once again! I also had to purchase a 1/8 BPT to 1/4 NPT adaptor
(Viair) for the ARB solenoid (the solenoid and blue air line come with the
locker). www.tellico4x4.com
is
where I got all my Viair accessories. I bought the compressor on Ebay.
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Disconnect and unbolt the metal tubes from the top of the IFS diff before
removing the diff to avoid damaging the tubes.
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Never force the CV axle back into the housing. Gentle tapping
works as long as the splines are lined up and the CV is perpendicular to the
housing. Make sure you have a couple spare axle clips on hand.
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Install a hidden shut-off switch so the front locker cannot be
accidentally engaged. Engaging the IFS Locker in 2wd will cause the front
drive shaft to go from zero to your current speed instantaneously and
potentially cause severe damage.
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Shoot all bolts with PB Blaster a week before you plan to do the work.
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Buy
a E12 star pattern socket and 12mm allen wrench before starting this
project. The female star socket is for disconnecting the ADD and passenger side IFS
housing from the diff. The allen wrench is needed to drain the IFS
diff and remove the third diff mount. We also needed a 35mm socket for removing
the front axle from the hub, which was only necessary because a CV boot was
accidentally damaged in the process.
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Using
the factory ECU, switch, and wiring harness made it easy to wire up the
e-locker. Here's the wiring diagram I used:
Locker Wiring (jpg)
(modified from Ken's site below). This set-up allows the e-locker to be engaged
in 2wd and at any speed. I still need to figure out how to
disable the ABS.
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If your truck is not prewired for the E-locker, then you will have to
find a bulb/plug and a jumper wire to wire up the dash and take advantage of the
locked/unlocked indicator circuit. See picture above and write-up at Lars'
site. I found the bulb/plug and wire at a junk yard - I think it came
off a Mazda pick-up. As shown in the locker wiring diagram above, I simply ran the yellow-blue (#2) from the diff lock
detection switch to the dash
indicator light. The diff lock detection switch grounds the
circuit and activates the dash light when the locker engages. As
stated on Lars' site, to connect the wire "Remove
the lower dash cover from beneath the steering column (4 screws). Remove the
black instrument bezel from around the cluster (4 screws). At least
partially remove the instrument cluster (4 screws) to gain access to the
brown electrical connector on the right side of the cluster (left side of
cluster when looking at it from the back). Wire a connector into pin 5 of
the brown connector. They are numbered on the cluster. I [Lars] simply fed some
solid core copper through the connector and fed it back on itself to create
a connector tab. Run the other end of the wire to" the diff lock
detection switch.
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Remove the splash gaurds and plug the axle tubes before grinding and
welding the rear axle housing. Take your time to clean out the housing
really well.
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Replace
the front axle seals and inner rear axle seals. Get a spare set of axle seals just in case.
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The
e-locker does not always engage/disengage immediately. Turning
left/right usually lines up the splines enough to get it to work. When
it works there is an audible "click" and the indicator light will
come on (or go solid of you're lucky enough to have a pre-wired rig).
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Never create a
redundant write-up - see the links below for much more
detailed instructions.
|
Item
|
Price
|
|
ARB IFS Air Locker
|
$600
|
|
IFS Spare diff
with 4.30s
|
$200
|
|
IFS Air Locker
Install by shop into diff
|
$140
|
|
IFS Air Locker
Install Kit - bearings, seals, etc
|
$60
|
|
Viair 450
Compressor
|
$200
|
|
Viair 1-Gallon Air
Tank
|
$50
|
|
Pressure Switch
and Misc Compressor Fittings
|
$60
|
|
IFS
Total:
|
$1310
|
|
Used Toyota
E-Locker 3rd Member with 4.30s
|
$400
|
|
Retrofit bolts,
gasket
|
$30
|
|
Used ECU, Switch,
Harness, and Misc Electrical
|
$40
|
|
E-Locker
Total:
|
$470
|
|
Other Install Costs
|
Lunch for my bro
|
|
Total Cost for
Dual Selectable Lockers
|
$1780
|
