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The Jakarta Post


The Jakarta Post, September 27, 2006

Harmony reigns at Ambon food stalls

M. Azis Tunny, The Jakarta Post, Ambon

As creeping darkness engulfs the day, food stalls sprout up along the roadsides here.

The seasonal markets, setting up shop at the time to break the fast in the city and providing cheap, easily available meals, take over much of the business of traditional markets during the fasting month.

They also are a sign of the process of reconciliation in this city torn by sectarian strife until only a few years ago. Christians and Muslims rub shoulders to buy food at stalls on Jl. Jend. Sudirman and Jl. Sultan Baabullah, in front of Al Fatah Grand Mosque.

The available delicacies include sweet drinks, such as young coconut juice, cendol (a mix of coconut milk, sugar syrup and green-colored riceflour balls), green bananas, mung beans, kolak (fruit compotes) and stuffed tofu.

"I come here to buy banana compote and traditional snacks, because various kinds of food are sold here during Ramadhan. They are cheap, too," said Johana Wattimena, a Christian resident from Batugantung.

Another Christian, Semy Nanlohy, said he visited the open-air markets to buy food and drinks almost every day since last year's Ramadhan.

"There are many choices of food and cold drinks. I'm glad that we can live in harmony, because during the conflict several years ago, we couldn't do things like this."

The bustle of activity at the stalls is in contrast to traditional Mardika market, where it was mostly quiet on the first and second days of the holy month. The bus terminal near the market was without public vehicles and the usual crowds of people.

Traders at the traditional market -- the first market in Ambon where Muslims and Christians started to intermingle after the cessation of the conflict that began in 1999 -- usually enjoy brisk sales.

But sales slumped on the first and second day of Ramadhan. The normal flow of activity was only seen at markets located in Christian enclaves, such as Tagalaya and Batumeja.

A poultry seller at Mardika market, Ahmad Jais, acknowledged that profits soared a day before the fasting month started. Sales were back to normal levels by the first and second day of the holy month.

"I was able to sell 300 chickens on Saturday. Now, I could only sell around 30 to 40 chickens," Jais told The Jakarta Post Monday.

He said the increase in sales was understandable, because it is the custom for Ambon's Muslims to prepare special meals on the first day of Ramadhan to break the fast and for predawn meals.

"And chicken meat is one of their choices," said Jais.

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