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¢Í¡¢éͤÇÒÁÊèǹ˹Öè§ ¨Ò¡ The Wine Journal ÁÒãËéÍèÒ¹¹Ð¤Ð
The Wines
Chateau
Clinet has many plaudits for its wines during the late-1980's,
particularly the legendary 1989 upon which Robert Parker bestowed a
perfect 100 points. However, in recent vintages I have felt there has
been an excessive amount of new oak that has smothered any sense of
terroir and finesse that might have complemented the wine. Even
Parker's scores abound with question marks and suggestions that the
wines lack harmony in their youth. My main criticism is that the wines
have appeared jammy, a little confected and blowsy. Compared to a
refined, restrained wine like La Conseillante the wine is cumbersome.
I
would prefer to see a more judicious use of new oak and I would
question whether 100% new barrels is excessive for this wine.
Furthermore, we have the controversial use of modern technologies such
as micro-oxygenation and cold maceration. I wonder whether the owners
are pushing to hard, aiming for a super-ripe, rich, opulent, powerful
wine rather than one with more finesse, freshness and elegance?
Certainly
there are many who adore this style of wine but my personal preference
is for a less power and more drinkability. If there was less new oak
and picking was made a little earlier to capture more freshness and
vivacity, then I would bestow higher scores. I would be interested to
see the effects of the modern technologies on the wines, to compare
samples with and without micro-oxygenation. Is it this process that
renders the wine jammy and lacking poise? Power and concentration are
not the only attributes of great wine and if I am seeking that
particular style, then I would opt for a New World wine.
¨Ò¡¤Ø³ :
WIWANDA 
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