Backpack Training

Also see Backpack Equipment Primer and Venture Food.

These notes are an OUTLINE of only SOME of the items covered in our Troop's backpack training. They are intended to be used by a qualified instructor in presenting a backpack course of instruction. They are not intended to be a complete guide to backpack instruction and do NOT cover all safety requirements. Use at your own risk. For more information see the Backpacking Merit Badge book and contact a merit badge counselor.

1. PREPARING TO HIKE

Pace:
Hiking is not a race. Set your own steady pace.
It is important to keep a steady pace. Remember the tortoise and the hare.
Always stay behind the leader and ahead of the sweep (tail-end Charlie).
Stretch first, just like in P.E. class.
To figure how long it will take to get there, use 2 mph plus 1 hour per 1000' climb as a rule of thumb.

Uphill:
Slow down the speed to keep the pace steady.
Vertical distance climbed is more important than horizontal distance traveled, but don't cut the trail.
Use the rest step on steep climbs - pause briefly between steps to give the other leg a rest.
Watch for altitude sickness when in the mountains.
If winded, blow all your old air out to get a full breath of clean air in.

Downhill:
Go slow. The jolt of running with a pack can injure your back, knees, or ankles.
Swing your hips to slow down and absorb shock.
Check for blister and hot spots before the descent. Tighten your boots and straighten your socks.

Rest stops:
Rest when needed, but try for a steady pace without frequent quick stops.
Keep your muscles loose.
Set short-distance goals for rests. Choose comfortable, scenic rest stops.

Water:
Drink frequently. Don't gulp, especially cold water. Use sports drinks to replace salts.

10 essentials: There are various lists, we'll use the BSA Handbook.
Bring your own medicines: antihistamines, inhalers, pain relievers, antidiarrhia.(Leaders cannot give Scouts medicine.)
Sunglasses are essential for mountains and deserts.

Other essentials:
Whistle - saves your voice if you get lost.
Bug juice.
Repair kit: duct tape, thread and needle, safety pins, clevis pins for pack frame, cord, wire.

2. BACKPACKS

Backpack: External vs. internal frame is biggest decision.
External frames can carry more weight and are cooler and easier to fit, especially if you are growing.
Internal frames balances better on rock or snow.
The hip belt is important because your legs can carry more weight than your back.
Shoulder straps should be comfortable. A sternum strap helps some keep straps on the shoulder.
Fabric - choose between tough and heavy vs. light.
Top vs. panel loading. Top loading usually lighter but harder to reach things at the bottom.
Rain covers - buy, or make from trash bag. Make sure it protects to the bottom of the bag.

Fitting: The store should have sand bags so you can try the packs on loaded..
The crossbar should be level with shoulders.
The hip belt should carry most of the weight.
For external frames, the shoulder straps almost level, not wrapping around shoulders.
For internal frames, the shoulder straps should reach down to the base of the neck.
Carry weight high and close to body.

Packing:
Look for 1/5 to 1/4 of your body weight. Pack weight maximum is 1/3 of your body weight.
If your body is overweight reduce your pack weight accordingly.
Items for at camp go inside. Items needed on trail go in pockets or on top.
Weight should be high and close to body. Balance left to right.
All those little items add up to a heavy pack.
Keep sharp objects away from your back.
Use waterproof bags inside. Also a waterproof bag inside your sleeping bag's stuff sack.

3. BOOTS

Boots:
1 pound on the foot equals 6 pounds on the back.
Boots protect your feet from bruises and twisting.
If you can feel the rocks you walk on, the sole is too soft.

Upper:
Leather can be waterproofed. Smooth leather is water repellent, but rough-out suede protects the leather's grain.
Nylon is cooler and lighter but not so waterproof or durable. Nylon is preferred by many for comfort.

Construction:
One-piece uppers and double or triple stitched seams are best.
More lining, padding, and reinforcement adds protection, insulation, and comfort, but also adds more weight, sweat, and cost.
High-tops don't have to be too high. 6 inches is usually enough.
A padded cuff keeps sand and stuff out of your boot.
A molded heel counter to keep foot from slipping in boot.

Insole: Can usually be replaced if not comfortable.

Outsole: The most common boot failure is separation of the sole.
Stitching inside or outside is best but is heavy and expensive.
Cement or injection molding is cheaper and lighter but doesn't last as long.

In practice: Most use Hi-Tec "Sierra Lite" type boots which are a nylon-suede combination. They are about $30 and are lightweight but don't work well on rough rocks.

4. FINDING YOUR WAY

Route finding: Your sight and senses, always watching the route, is basic equipment.

Compass: Remember to adjust for declination

Map reading: Use stereoscopic vision to look at topo maps.

Note: This section is basic Scouting skills.

Scouts should know how to use a compass to properly orientate a map.

Scouts should know how to read topographic map contour lines to visualize mountains, etc.

5. CLOTHING

Layer method allows more variations than just a heavy jacket.
1. Underwear for comfort, warmth, wicking moisture away from skin. This could be long johns if it is cold.
2. Insulation for warmth when needed: a sweater or jacket.
3. Shell protects from wind, rain, snow, sun: a windbreaker, raincoat, or poncho.

Head and hand covering: Head and neck are most critical. "If your feet are cold, put on a hat." Also wear hat for sun protection for same reason

Fabrics:
Wool: Warm, even if wet. Absorbs 30% of weight in water, yet keeps 50% of warmth.
Tears easily and itchy.
Can be blended with nylon to wear better.

Cotton: Good in very hot weather as it holds water.
Otherwise it can kill.
Blended fabrics still hold water. Duofold long johns are half cotton.

Nylon: Stronger than cotton, wears well, and dries fast.
Cut edges fray if not fused.
If fabric is coated, hand wash to keep coating from coming off. Seam seal the seams.
Ripstop nylon has heavier threads running through lighter fabric every 1/4 inch or so which makes it harder to tear.
Pack cloth and Cordura is tough but heavy and often used for packs and gaiters.

Polypropylene: The best long underwear.
Absolutely will not absorb water. Wicks sweat and water 6 times faster than wool. Dries fast.
Hand wash. It can hold odors.

Radiant heat barrier needs loft for insulation.
Down: Must be kept dry. Softest, breathes, stuffs well. High cost but long life makes it cheaper in long run.
Polyester: Nearly as warm as dry down, dries better and stays warmer if wet. Use if in wet conditions, or no tent. Polarguard, Lite Loft, Thinsulate, etc.

Dry AND Warm are both important.

6. SLEEPING BAGS

Insulation:

Polyester: Synthetic insulation is cheaper than down. Brands include Thinsulate, PolarGuard, and Hollofil.

Dupont Hollofil is the cheapest and is used for car camping bags. Hollofil II has a silicone agent makes softer for more loft and stuffing. Quallofil has four hollows in each fiber. 3M PolarGuard has continuous filaments which prevents shifting and clumps. PolarGuard HV is even better New is Thinsulate.

Down: The fluff next to the skin of geese or ducks. Compacts but fluffs back well. Wears best. More expensive than polyester.

Why polyester is better than down for Scouts: (even if your leader uses down)
1. Polyester absorbs less than 1% water by weight.
2. Polyester loses only 5% of loft if drenched. Wring out, shake, it will still keep you warm, and may dry overnight.
3. Polyester resists compression under the sleeper.
4. Poly can be washed easier.
5. Some people are allergic to down.
6. Down absorbs moisture from body and will collapse over a week, even if outside is kept dry.

Shell: Nylon.
Don't put your face in your sleeping bag and breathe in the bag. Your breathe has water in it. Cover your face with clothing if too cold.
If you have a rectangular bag, wrap sweater around shoulders to close off if drafty.
A mummy bag is best for backpackers, but many find it too cramped.

Zippers: Zippers create heat loss so smaller is better.
Nylon zippers are better than metal as don't conduct heat, freeze, or rip fabric.
Tooth zippers better than coil, and bigger teeth are better.
A two-way zipper lets feet be ventilated while your body stays zipped up.
A draft tube keeps cold air from getting through zipper.

Length and width: The best size is "Just right!"

In practice most start with whatever they already have. In spite of its advantages, down is not usually recommended for Scouts since it is worse than worthless when wet.

7. COOKING GEAR AND FOOD

Cooking gear:
Matches should be waterproof. Some use a lighter.

Stoves: Propane is best for Scouts. It's simple, cheap, safe, and works well. Bluet is also good if it is a propane/butane mix. Pure butane doesn't have as much heat, especially if cold.

Gas stoves requiring pouring gas and sometimes priming, both of which are dangerous. Check with leaders before buying.

Eating utensils: Use multiple-purpose utensils. If only making one-pot meals you don't need a full cook kit. Steel plate doubles as pot lids.
A cup can be used for eating and drinking.
Your pocket knife may have a can opener.
Bring a spoon only. A fork is not usually needed on backpacks.

Food containers:
Plastic zip-lock bags.
Poly bottles for liquids and mixing drinks.
1-liter poly bottles are now standard canteens - few use "canteens". Nalgene bottles don't absorb flavors, but are brittle below zero degrees. A wide mouth is best for mixing and stuffing snow in. Loop tops help keep from losing the lids.

Dishwashing:
Sand and gravel or scouring pad to get food out. Or wipe with a paper towel. Then rinse with just a little water.
Hot water (and soap?) to cut grease.
Aluminum pots must be cleaned and dried to prevent acid from dissolving metal.
Salt is corrosive - rinse it out.

Trail food:
Most people take too much. For weekend balanced nutrition isn't usually a problem. Avoid just opening a can.

Day hike: Apple, nuts, sandwiches, cheese & crackers, fruit, carrots, various energy bars. Water. Don't litter (includes orange peels).

Overnighters: No rules. Graze all day or gourmet dinner.
Soup, canned stew, bread, pudding, oj, oatmeal in cup, cocoa.

High-tech: Freeze dried easiest to prepare, but expensive.
MREs have too much excess packaging - don't bring them.
Fruit juice boxes are convenient but have too much box left when done.

More food ideas here.

8. HOW TO GO TO THE BATHROOM

Don't go anywhere someone might want to camp or eat lunch!
Out of sight of others.
100 feet from all water, trails, and camps.
In desert consider even dry washes to be water ways.

How to poop:

Dig hole 6 inches deep- deep enough to cover but still in organic part of soil.
Bury waste and cover

Toilet paper:

Use as little as possible.
Current best method is to carry out used toilet paper in a zip lock bag. This is now law in State Parks and others.
Most bury it instead. Make sure it is all covered by soil. This is littering!
Some burn it before burying it - Scouts shouldn't do this to avoid starting a fire.

Washing up:

All washing of hands, face, hair, dishes, etc., should be 100 feet from water, trails, and camps.
Biodegradable soap is still a pollutant, so keep it out of waterways.

Drinking water:

There is no natural surface water safe for drinking anymore.
Three ways to treat:
1. Boil 1 minute. - Takes time and fuel.
2. Water purification tablets - Must sit 30 minutes. Some taste bad. Follow directions.
3. Water filter - Expensive and heavy, but water tastes good and cold.

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