1. Equipment and safety.

a. Parts of a canoe and paddle.

The gunwale (say "gunnel") is the rim of the canoe. The thwarts (say "thorts") are braces going across the beam of the canoe to keep the gunwales apart. Thwarts are not for sitting on. The keel is the ridge running along the bottom of the canoe which helps it track (go straight) better. The bow is the front and the stern is the back. Port is left and starboard is right (remember this by knowing that the words port and left are shorter than starboard and right).

The paddle has several parts. The tip is the far end of the blade - don't dig the tip in the dirt as it hurts it. The blade is connected to the grip by the thin loom; the place where the loom meets the blade is called the throat.

b. Canoe terms.

Beside the parts of the canoe above: Leeward means the side away from the wind, windward is the side facing the wind. If the wind is blowing from the right your canoe will be pushed to the leeward (left) side. Another word we don't really like to hear is portage, which means to carry the canoe - either from one lake to another or around a danger on the river.

c. Canoeing positions.

The best positions for canoeing are low in the canoe, which not only makes the canoe less likely to tip over but gives you more power. Seats are comfortable, especially for long trips, but should never be used in winds, rough water, or where speed or handling is important. It is better to kneel. You can reach farther while using your thigh and torso muscles to help paddle. You can kneel on both knees with your butt against the edge of your seat. For more power or for a break you can extend one leg forward. You can also kneel upright.

d. Safety Afloat.

Remember PDQBALLS from Safe Swim Defense? Now we have "PDQBAPPPE."

Your PFD must be in good shape, must fit you, must be worn correctly with all fasteners fastened, and must be worn at all times while on the water.

e. Equipment.

Talk to an experienced paddler before buying anything.
PFD (see above)
Paddle - when the tip is on your foot the grip should reach between your chin and nose
Painter - a 15-foot piece of cord for tying the canoe up on shore or for towing in emergencies
Bailer and sponge - a one-gallon plastic bottle with the bottom cut off makes a good bailer, but you may use the sponge more
Kneeling pads for comfort
Shoes that can get wet - we always wear shoes in the canoe to protect from cuts and scrapes - water socks work best
Waterproof buckets, barrels, or dry bags to keep your gear dry.
Cord to tie all equipment to the canoe so if you capsize your gear doesn't sink or float away.
Plus the usual hiking and camping stuff

2. Discussion.

a. Care of equipment.

Store equipment dry and protected from sun and rain. Canoes should be stored upside down.
If PFDs show signs of wear they should be replaced. If you can't read the Coast Guard label or if they have been sewed they are not legal.
Check equipment for loose parts before using.
Duct tape is good for emergency repairs, but fix it right when you get home.

b. Canoe sailing.

It is possible to improvise a sail for a canoe. Plans are in the Canoeing merit badge book. Care must be taken not to capsize.

c. Moving water.

Beginners should start out on sheltered flat water (small lakes, for example). Here you use the paddle for motion as well as steering. On moving water forward motion is not the problem. Instead, the paddle is used to stay on a safe course and slow down forward motion. Much practice is needed for safe canoeing on moving water.

Last update February 24, 1999