Like with anything in life, when there is anything moving, there is certainly some risk of getting hurt aswell as always some risk of getting sick! And just like you wouldn't go camping or on a hiking trip without the essentials, your barn should NOT be without an equine first aid kit. A vet won't always be able to get to your place within minutes, and this is when you must know some essential EQUINE FIRST AID. On this section of Carolyn's Horsey Homepage, I will take you through compiling your own equine first aid kit and some basic equine first aid. I suggest though, that you invest in a comprehensive horse first aid book (there are quite a few on the market), EVEN if you are not a horse owner but are still associated with horses. 
 

THE EQUINE FIRST AID KIT:

Equine First Aid kits from horse stores can often be overpriced. You can easily compile your own first aid kit at minimal cost. It is a good idea to keep 2 first aid kits. 1 that may be kept at the barn or tack room (well, in other words a main kit kept permanently in a spot that is easily accessible in case of emergency) and the 2nd that you are able to tack with you on a country ride (with the bare essentials) If you choose, you may also like to obtain a third that can be taken with you to shows (though this will be a copy of the first kit)
 

Your main Equine First Aid Kit:
(these are only suggestions, but similar will do just fine!)
Your main Kit should consist of:

  • 1 roll of cotton wool (30cm wide x 375 g in weight)
  • 1 roll of cotton gauze or crepe bandage (7.5 cm wide)
  • 1 or 2 rolls of bandage (10cm wide) like Vetrap
  • 1 or 2 multipurpose dressings
  • 1 adhesive stretch bandage (7.5 cm wide)
  • 1 x antiseptic spray
  • 1 x antiseptic wash (betadine, or even Dettol, Savlon or other human topical antispect preparation can be used)
  • Some antiseptic soothing preparation
  • 1 x 100 g jar of petroleum jelly 
  • 1 pair of 15 cm curved, blunt edged dressing scissors
  • fly repellent
  • Pack of Salt (mixed in water to form a saline cleaning solution for wounds)
  • Epsom Salts
  • A bottle of sterile water (just in case there is no water supply available)
  • 1 roll of gamgee dressing
  • Extra Thick leg bandages 
  • 1 x human thermometer (with some thin cord or string attached though the end so it cannot get lost in the rectum)
  • 1 small plastic bowl
  • 1 used, clean worming syring (for pressure irrigating and flushing debris from wounds) 
  • Instant cool pack, or some ice or cold gel packs kept in the freezer for immediate use
  • A halter and leadrope
  • A twitch, in case restraint is needed (optional)
  • Phone numbers for your vet, and other close by vets just in case your vet is unavailable
  • A copy of some equine first aid book or magazine
  • And finally a water proof box to put all this in. Make sure it is not locked, but hard enough for small children to open. 
**Remember to always replace materials that you may have used.

It is also an idea to have some bandaids and other essential human first aid materials in this kit, JUST in case YOU hurt yourself!

Your mini kit should consist of: (for riding out on the roads etc.)

  • A hoofpick/ and pocket knife (or one of those handypicks that have everything!) 
  • 1 or 2 bandages
  • antiseptic spray
  • Some baling twine (you never know when this might come in handy! eg. tying your horse somewhere safely)
  • Phone numbers for your vet etc.
  • Some money (for emergencies)
  • Notes on essential first aid
  • Your name/age/phone number/and any other medical specifications written down just in case you are unconcious and someone finds you, so they will know who to contact etc.
  • Human first aid items (eg. bandaids etc.)
  • A small durable bag that can be put in a saddle bag or in a backpack while out riding. 


KNOWING WHEN TO CALL THE VET:

Not all cases will require veterinary attention, though before you can assess for yourself if you require vet assistance or not, you must know basic factors that will indicate that something is wrong. Though, please remember, if you are unsure of the severity of the case, CALL YOUR VET. 

Heart Rate:
The heart rate/pulse indicates the condition of the cardiovascular system. 
Normal: The average resting heart rate for a horse should be between 25 to 45 beats per minute (bpm)
              The average heart rate during strenuous work can get up to 240 bpm
Taking the Pulse: The pulse at rest should be taken in a quiet place away from anything that can excite your horse. It 
              should not be taken just before or after work or travel. To achieve the most accurate result, take the pulse a few 
              times or take it over a 3 minute time period. 
Pulse Points: The best places to measure pulse are...

  • Inside the front angle of the lower jaw as it rounds the mandible
  • Behind and to the side of the eye
  • Between the bulbs of the heel in the forelegs
When Something is wrong: If the heart rate exceeds over 10bpm than the usual resting heart rate (you should keep a record of your horse's resting heart rate) you should check for other signs of illness. You should also check to see if there is a weak pulse (indicating decreased blood flow through the circulatory system) 

Body Temperature:
Normal: The normal range of Temperature for a horse is between 36.5 - 38.5 (degrees celsius) or 98 - 102 (degrees 
              farenheit) Body temperature is usually lowest in the morning and highest in midafternoon.
Taking the temperature: You will need the thermometer (see above first aid kits) . The temperature is taken from the  
              exterior opening of the rectum.

  • Firstly shake the thermometer as to bring the liquid down to approximately 35 (degrees celsius)
  • Apply some form of lubricant (eg. saliva) to the end of the thermometer so that it slides in and out more easily
  • Standing close to the horse's hind leg, hold the dock away from the entrance. The horse might be reluctant at first but give him/her a scratch above the dock and he/she should relax it once again quickly.
  • Insert the thermometer gently until 3cm is still showing. Direct it gently towards the sides of the rectum as to not aim it directly into some manure (!) 
  • DO NOT LET GO UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES
  • Wait for 2 minutes and then gently remove it. 
When Something is wrong: If the horse has a temperature over what is usual for that horse in particular, then you must 
             find the reason why. ie. proceed to look for other vital signs of illness.

More to come