SV650 Carb Needles
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Okay, here it is:
(You do not need to find shims to do this job, you will use the washers already found in the needle assembly)
Start by removing the seat - this allows the tank to prop up easily. Remove the small allen screws on the side cover plates under the seat, then the larger allen bolts that hold the seat on. Seat should be removed by sliding it toward the tank and lifting up the front.
Next, remove the two allen screws that attach the tank in the front by the forks. Use the prop supplied with the bike ( In the rear storage compartment for you new owners) and prop up the tank. You'll now see the massive air box.
NOTE: While you have the tank propped up, now is a good time to address that "water in the tank" cure. ( See Ian's postings on the fix. ( Yes, I did that too. :) )
Start by finding the phillips screws that are part of the airbox clamps that clamp it to the carbs. ( Rear one is on the right, front on the left side if sitting on the bike if memory serves.) Get some "liquid wrench" machine oil and put a few drops on the threads of these screws. They are VERY stubborn and this overcomes this problem. Let the oil soak in for 15 minutes or so. ( Go get a drink and check your messages.) You should also consider buying some Craftsman Grip Doctor from Sears, it increases screwdriver grip by 400% and is $5.
Next, use a phillips head screw driver and loosen the screws. (you will need a long screwdriver) Be careful not to strip the heads (use Grip Doctor), apply steady firm pressure. They'll give in eventually if you are patient. ( Note, if you can't remove them, there is a fail safe in the event that the screws are "frozen" do this: It's a little difficult to do, but if you apply steady lifting force on the air box, the rubber boots that clamp it to the carbs will come out of the air box and you'll be able to easily get to the screws to remove them. The real pain is putting the rubber pieces back it the holes. They have a groove and all, but you must CAREFULLY put the rubber mounts back in the holes with a screw driver. Think of it like a bicycle tire and you'll be okay. As for removing the screws, anyway you see fit. Once you get the air box out of the way, getting to the screws should be a piece of cake. Only do this if you can't remove the air box screws!)
Once the screws are loose, locate the crank case breather hose on the left side of the bike. It attaches to the air box on the left rear side. Remove the hose and lift the air box off the carbs. The drain hose for the box is long and hangs down the center. If there is a little resistance to lifting off the box, this tube is probably meeting some resistance. Find it and wiggle it while pulling the air box up, this will allow removal.
You are now looking at the two carbs. At this time, use some aluminum foil and cover the inlets for now. ( Keep dirt out of it.)
Next, dismount the horn from the frame in the front and move it out of the way. ( 1 bolt 10mm) Now loosen the radiator. There are 4 bolts that hold it on. ( Two bottom, two top. 10 mm) (My '00 has only 3 bolts)This is necessary to keep from having to disconnect the throttle cables. After the radiator is movable, remove the mounting bolts for the fan assembly. (I did not have to touch the mounting bolts for the fan assy.) There are I believe three of them, two bottom, one top. The top one is accessible via the interior near the carbs. ( Will have to use a 10 mm wrench due to space constraints.)
Now that all that business is loose and "mobile" slide the fan assembly over toward the right side of the bike, enough to get it out of the way, but don't damage the radiator fins.
Remember that "liquid wrench" you used before? Put some on the clamp screws that attach the carbs to the intake of the heads. You'll need a long phillips screw driver to eventually loosen the front clamp. The screw head faces the right side of the bike. Walk over to that side and look in the lower area of the carb and you will see it hiding in the recesses of the interior. The rear carb clamp screw faces I think the left side of the bike, and is easily seen. ( Don't worry, these screws are easier to turn than the ones for the air box.)
Loosen the clamp screws and carefully lift the carb assembly up. It will easily pull off the intake pipes. It is now somewhat moveable / loose.
FOR THE FOLLOWING, GET A LARGE CLEAN PAN / BOWL AND PUT A PAPER TOWEL IN IT!!!!!!!!! ( Trust me...)
It might be a wise time to recommend going to the hardware store if you do not have the next item. Since the front vacuum cover is difficult to take off given the limited space to get a screw driver in to unscrew the mounting screws, I used the phillips head tip to my black and decker screw gun in combination with an 8 mm wrench to form a 90 degree phillips head screw driver! ( Yeah, I've watched shade tree mechanic...) The screw gun tips can be bought at a hardware store for a couple bucks. I recommend the ones that have about a 1 inch shaft on them, they seem to work nicely. (I used an 1/4" socket with a 1/4" ratchet -see picture)
Now with your new ( Maybe even patentable?) screwdriver wrench, locate the two screws that mount the vacuum cover/plate. One is on the bottom right, the other at the top left. Apply gentle steady pressure - they will eventually loosen. I recommend starting with the bottom one, then removing the top one last, as the vacuum plate has a weak spring inside.
Placing your free hand on the cover to hold it down, remove the top screw. ( Put both screws in your paper towel lined pan.) Gently ease off the pressure and allow the vacuum cover to be removed. Place the cover and spring in your "parts bowl"
Next, gently grab the rubber diaphragm and pull it. It will easily unseat and the slider will begin to slide out with the diaphragm. (Forgive me I can't spell!) Carefully pull out the slider/needle/diaphragm assembly and put it in the "parts bowl"
Looking inside the rubber diaphragm, you'll see a plastic tab. Grab the plastic slider with one hand, then with a pair of needle nose pliers in the other, gently grab the end of this tab and pull on it with a slight twisting motion. * Careful, there is a small spring that can pop out if you do this too abruptly - easy is the message.
Put the tab and spring in the parts bowl, then turn the slider upside down - the needle, washer, (and spring If not removed with the tab) will fall out.
With your needle nose pliers, GENTLY grab the blunt (non tapered) end of the needle and with your other hand pull on the plastic spacer under the e clip. May have to use your finger nails to get under it and pull it off. Once removed, take that metal washer/shim (a 3mm washer .020" thick) and put it under the e clip, then replace the plastic spacer on top of it. ( You'll note that this washer WAS on top of the e clip when you pulled out the needle from the slider, it's now under it.) If you are rejetting your carbs you may end up using more than one shim (3mm washer) under the clip.
Look at this video showing exactly how its done:
Shim procedure in Windows .WMV format (1.1meg)
Shim Procedure in RealVideo format (800k)
Drop the needle back into the slider. Put the small spring on the nub of the plastic tab, then with the needle nose pliers, replace the tab in the slider, pushing with a gentle twisting motion. You'll feel the tab seat into place.
Now take off the aluminum foil on top of the front carb. Re-insert the slider back into the carb, making sure to guide the needle into its hole by looking into the carb. The rubber diaphragm has a small rubber ring on the side of it that lines up with a small peg on the bottom right of the carb. Make sure the diaphragm is properly seated into the carb lip with you fingers. ( It will seat flush in the lip of the opening on the carb.)
Take the long spring and vacuum cover, place the spring back into the carb ( It goes in the center of the slider assembly.) and place the cover on the carb. Make sure it is seated properly. ( Note: Replace the vacuum cover/plate and the long spring together as one piece.) Mount the vacuum cover with the mounting screws and tighten snug - but don't torque them down real hard. You want it snug so that it seals.
THE FRONT CARB IS NOW SHIMMED!
Now do the same to the rear carb in the same fashion - this should take you 2 minutes as you are now a pro and the rear one is more accessible.
ONCE THE CARBS ARE SHIMMED:
Remount the fan to the radiator
Remount the carbs onto the inlet pipes and tighten the clamps
Remount the radiator
Remount the horn
Use a paper towel and wipe the top intake area of each carb to remove any contamination ( dust, etc... don't let any dirt fall into the carbs!) Use another paper towel and wipe the attaching area on the air box. ( You may also want to remove the air filter at this time and clean it according to the owners manual while you're at it.)
Replace the air box onto the carbs, be sure to get a snug uniform fit all the way around. You may have to wiggle the air box and use a small flat head screw driver to make sure the lip seals all the way around. ( Be gentle with the screw driver, don't mark the carb surface or the rubber surface.) Once you are convinced you have a good fit, tighten the clamps that hold the air box onto the carbs. Frequently inspect as you tighten to make sure you have a seal all the way around and that it didn't pop up. ( It took me three attempts before I got it right.) Might want to try one at a time if doing both at once proves unsuccessful.
Once the air box is mounted, re-attach the breather hose for the crankcase. Make sure you have all your tools and have no "extra" parts, then lower the tank and bolt it back onto the frame. Replace the seat, bolt it down and you're done. ( The seat may be challenging to put back on, be patient and start both bolts at the same time. The seat is a snug fit so be patient is a virtue.)
You have now completed the carb shimming. Start the bike in the normal manner, allow it to warm up. Strap on your gear and hold on!
Learn to adjust your air/fuel mixture
See how to rejet your carbs
Perform a snorkelectomy
Read testimonials from others
SV650 Resources
updated 11/19/06
