Mumbai, India (1st - 11th Nov 2004)

 

 

Chicken Pox, Curry, Rain (Where It Doesn't Rain!) And Warnie's Text Messenging RSI

My god ... this place was fantastic. Amazing! AND everyone loves cricket ;) I really did find it hard to put in words, but here you go ...  

Muslims, Christians, Hindu, Punjabbi etc all live together in peace. It is nice to see (similar to egypt). Nigel, the guy I hung with for the first couple of days, must have thought I am a devout catholic the way I asked/talked about religion with locals. I sat next to Nigel on the flight in from Sydney (got exit sits, you beauty!). Sitting on my other side was Shoaib Acktar's PR Manager. That was interesting. Shoaid is the fastest bowler in the world (Pakistani) and after talking cricket the whole way over, I discovered that he has a very interesting life. She is also writing a book on him so I'll keep an eye out for that.  

I planned to spend a week in Mumbai, see the city, soak in the atmosphere, watch the test and then head down south to Goa for a few days of soaking up the sun. My intention was to get a taste of India while on this short trip so that I can return for more involved travel. I figured Goa was a perfect destination as it's a party/tropical zone without much "culture" or interesting things to see, IE will still have plenty to visit in this spectacular country.  

However, Goa was not meant to be ...  


Maidens - these are ovals where Indians come to play cricket every day. I just sat there watching for donkies. Amazing how they hit most of their shots along the ground.

I spent the first couple of days exploring Mumbai and climatising. Pretty warm. Busy. Dirty. No surprises, it's india! November is a pleasant time to visit, comfortable heat (if you don't stay in the sun for too long) and friendly atmosphere. As is common for a city of 20 million people, there are myriad of sounds and colours as people bustle around. Mumbai's black taxis are similar to NY's yellow cabs - one everywhere you look.  

I spent a few hours watching local kids/youths play cricket at Maidens (a group of cricket fields not far from the main tourist area). Many different "grades" play here, from professionals to kids playing backyard cricket. There are some similarities - they love the game and love to take it seriously. Entertaining. One thing - these kids hit along the ground, not like certain aussie youngens I knew.  

I was due to meet up with my tour (The Fanatics) on my 2nd day. They didn't have anything planned and I figured they'd be tired from their 20 hr train ride, so I didn't stick around for their arrival. I did bump into a few of them when I returned to change for dinner, including my room mate. ha! Her name was Cath and she was sick as a dog with a virus (ironic considering what I broke out with). She was bitter, at the end of her trip and patience. She'd had a gutful of India. Naturally, I didn't stick around to listen.  

That night I went out to an area that was supposed to buzz with Muslims feasting. It was approaching the end of Ramadam and according to my friend, Abdul, if you get the chance to enjoy night festivities with muslims during Ramadam, then you'll have many good memories. Didn't find the feasts, but feasted all the same. This night's meal cost 14 rupes (50c) with the soft drink being more expensive than the meal. The food here is briliiant. I can now understand why Rakesh's friend takes culinary tours to India. Yummy! Even ate curries for breaky.  


Some shots from the train on the way to Bollywood. The doors don't close and each cart was packed. Funny how the trains don't stop at the station. Difficult with a large group as you all need to get on. Took us a couple of goes. All good!

Our group went out to Bollywood (India's version of hollywood). This was a good way to see much of Mumbai as Bollywood is a fair distance from where we stayed (Byculla); 2 hour each way by rail (had to transfer a few times) & ricksaw (u know the 3 wheeled cars). This place is surreal. Filthy rich and unbelieveably poor. Sad but that's how it is.  


[Left to Right] These black taxis swarm the streets, sometimes the meters work; a view from our hotel roof; a mosque across the street

I felt very safe here. I didn't get the intimidation that I felt in Egypt. The people were friendlier than Mexico but not as friendly as Guatamala (I don't think you can top them!). Most are happy to talk if you put in an effort - something that has shat me from some of my fellow tourists. No excuses for treating locals as I witnessed. Don't know if it's because I caught them at the arse-end of the tour, but my impression was they were mostly poor travellers. The less said about them the better. So I'm moving on ...  


Some more views from my hotel roof. Notice the kids playing soccer in the yard of the Catholic church across the street. Kids play all sports, everywhere, whenever they get the chance. I remember dad saying his childhood was like that

Devastating ...  

I received the worst possible news on the morning of the first test ...  

I awoke at 8am, primed and ready for the cricket. Dressed and out the door in record time. As I passed the window, I was dumbfounded ... what the hell is that outside? Rain! Rakesh said it never rains in Mumbai. The average rainfall for this city in November is 5mm. Crap.  

Bellhop says 1 hr. Front desk says 1 hr. Taxi driver says 1 hr. I guess the rain is going in an hour then. Oh well, I'll go out to the ground. I expected the test to not go the distance (little did I know it would be the shortest test with a result for over 100 years!), so wasn't too phased.  

Lucky it rained as I didn't miss any cricket when I couldn't get in the ground with my camera and had to return to the hotel to drop it off. Waste of time and money further aggreivated when I discovered only select people were barred entry with cameras. Oh well. Similar to the temples of Egypt, I don't think you can capture the atmosphere on camera. I didn't make the effort to smuggle it in on day 2 or 3 either. Memories will have to do.  

Anyway, I was sitting around waiting for the cricket to start when I learnt of the news that could potentially shatter my trip to India. Devastating ... Shane Warne was preparing to return home after breaking his finger in the nets the day before. For Christ's sake!  

I shed a tear, sucked it up and tried to keep my chin up. "It will be OK" I kept telling myself.  

Well the test was a disgrace and I refuse to write much about the cricket played. It was far from test cricket. Nail-biting, entertaining and I enjoyed it, but it was more like one day cricket. A joke. A lottery. Kartick is a terrible bowler and I imagine that'll be his only Man-of-the-Match ever. Good to see Tendulkar or Laxman finally get some runs.  

I specifically looked forward to a few things regarding the cricket match in Mumbai: Warne bowling on a spin friendly pitch where he has little previous success and watching The Little Master walk to the crease in front of his home crowd. Well, I missed the former, however, the hair raising experience of the latter nearly made up for it. Breathtaking. This was from a crowd that wasn't even full. The Indians are great supporters and I enjoyed their company. Their screams, their shouts, their friendly jibes. Any excuse to get excited and celebrate being there. Though no sounds were louder then Tendular's appearance. If cricket players are seen as heavenly here, then Tendulkar is surely the All Mighty. Shame he is struggling of late (unlike Sehwag who's having a cracker of a year in 2004).  


[Left to Right] Interesting building; This is where they wash clothes. Costs 5 rupes - 20cents; view of Kolabba (main tourist area) from Hanging Gardens

The match ending on day 3 probably saved my life!  

I found a couple of spots on my torso the night of day one. Possibly heat boils ... besides being fairly tired since I got here, I feel fine, so it shouldn't be anything too serious. They spread and by morning. I thought I better get a doctor. Well that failed terribly. I waiting 15 minutes, they couldn't contact one quick enough and I told them to forget it as I'm going to the cricket and will sort it out when there is no play to be missed. In the end I didn't bother seeing a doctor as one bloke on the tour had some medical background and by the end of day two's play it seemed a concensus that it was chicken pox - I looked terrible!  

The worst part was I could not fly until the sores were no longer visable. It was close but I made it to Thailand. Unfortunately, it meant I could not to Goa as the train was too long for me to return in time for the flight to Bangkok. I was stuck in Mumbai. I can think of worse things. It meant I saw more of Mumbai and less of India than intended.  


My chicken pox at the end of match Day 3 and a few days later ... yuck!

My brother Dan said it is a test of strength. Well, I think Luck had more to do with it, but I generally got away with little punishment. I was hardly sick, I didn't miss much cricket (1st 2 sessions of day 3). Although, I nearly died after going to the final session of the match ... geese, couldn't move to even eat. I lost probably a total of 3 days due to resting. Already being my lightest since highschool when I left Sydney, I was disappointed in Thailand to discover that I had lost 6 kgs in India. Oh well, thank the Gods the food was sensational, giving me an excuse to over enduldge (that is a story for different page ...).  

Sal & the Morris' saw me on telly at the cricket - I'm a celeb! I'm a spotted, freaky celeb! Just like Micheal Jackson.  


[Left to Right] The boats that take cruising in the habour (including Elephant Island); Pat Clarke as we return to the wharf with the Taj Mahal Hotel ($300+ US per night); Mumbai during sunset from the water.

I bumped into Patt Clarke (used to live between Scotty and Steve in Forestville and went to school with my Brother) at the cricket and we saw a bit of Mumbai together. Mahatma Gandhi's Mumbaian house was interesting and inspired me to learn a little more of his exploits.  


[Left to Right] Bit of Monkey Magic; Cave Temples

After resting another day, I decided to spend my last day in India out at one of the islands (Elephant Island). This is a fascinating place with caves housing temples and the surrounds full of wildlife, including some monkies which loved the camera. The best part of this day was the 1hr+ each way on the Harbour.  

 

Original Itinerary from The Fanatics

Mon 1 Nov - Arrive Mumbai

Mumbai (formerly Bombay) is undoubtedly the hub of India. One third of India’s GNP is generated out of here and half of all trade take place here. Mumbai now has 18 million residents, placing it in the top 5 most populated cities in the world. It’s the home of Bollywood, the home of the filthy rich and the absolute destitute. 

Tue Nov 2 - Free Day

Two days isn’t really enough time to explore the delights and treachery of Mumbai but ensure you do your best to catch as much as you can. Being the last Test of the series this will obviously be the final pre-party and is bound to be huge. Some punters have been on the tour from the first Test and are sure to be offering advice to the many newcomers that are coming for the last Test only.

This morning we are going to try & be extra’s for a Bollywood B grade movie so if you are keen we need to meet in the foyer at 7am to try & be on the set for when it starts moving.

Pre-Test Party Information:

Venue: Foyer of the Hotel Fariyas

Time: 7pm sharp - We will be meeting here & moving on so please be there on time.

Address: 27, Off Arthur Bunder Road, Colaba, Bombay

Wed Nov 3 to Sun Nov 7 - 4th Test

We’ll be making our own way to the test, so allow plenty of time. Remember that Indian traffic and venue entry may not be quite as orderly as what you’re used to, so prepare to leave early. The singing of the anthems is always a highlight and a chance to blow some of the previous night’s cobwebs away.

This is the rawest and most passionate cricketing nation on the planet – get ready for a Test Cricket experience of a lifetime as we witness every day of the Test. Get the video and camera ready for when Sachin strides out to the middle, you’re in for a treat. And if he happens to put Warnie over the fence and into the masses, lookout! Each night we’ll be recalling all the great moments over a coupla hard earned Kingfisher or Marco Polo - two of the finest, and most potent, drops of amber fluid on the sub continent. After the final day’s play, we’ll have one mighty farewell for those who are leaving the tour at this point. Use this last night to pay up any beers or bets that you might owe.

Mon 8 Nov - Depart Mumbai

Today is the final farewell and tears are sure to be flowing like the beer has been. Hopefully our sorrow of departure is tempered by our joy of witnessing one of the great test series and hopefully a win for the Aussies.

 

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