redDog
Cafe
8301-a Grubb Rd.
Silver Spring, Md. 20910
301-588-6300
Janis McLean - Executive
Chef
Janis McLean is going to
be at the "Eleventh Epicurean the Food & Wine
Auction Gourmet Feast" at
6 pm Monday February 7, 2005. It is being
held at The Ritz-Carlton
Hotel, 1150 22nd Street NW Washington, DC.
For information e-mail: lesdamesdc@aol.com
or phone: (202) 973-2168
Veal and Wild Mushroom Ragout
- served with Spaetzle
The
Veal Ragout is a festive dish --- definitely good enough
for
a “company’s coming” dinner. I like to eat it with
garlic
mashed potatoes or spaetzle.
The
Spaetzle - these little German “dumplings” are light as
air
and just divine!! You’ll notice I gave the serving
amount
in terms of volume rather than people,
as
I can sit down and eat a huge plateful of
these!
They are great with goulashes and
stews
and as a side to duck and venison.

The Veal and Wild Mushroom
Ragout
Ingredients:
(Serves 6)
1) 2 lbs. Veal Should Meat - cut into
3/4” cubes
2) 2 tbs. Peanut Oil (or Canola Oil)
3) 1/2 tsp. Kosher Salt
4) 1/2 tsp. Black Pepper
5) 1 Onion - finely chopped
6) 2 Garlic Cloves - minced
7) 1 cup dry White Wine
8) 2 1/2 cups Chicken Stock
9) 1/2 oz dried Porcini Mushrooms (soaked
in hot water for half an hour)
10) Bouquet Garni (10 – 12 fresh parsley stems w/leaves,
5 or 6 fresh thyme
steams, 2 bay
leaves, all tied together)
11) 2 Carrots - peeled
12) 2 Leeks
13) 8-oz Portabella Mushrooms
14) 4 tbs. Butter
15) 2 tbs. Olive Oil
16) More Kosher Salt - 1/4 tsp.
17) More Black Pepper - 1/4 tsp.
18) 1/2 cup Heavy Cream
19) 2 tsp. Dijon Mustard
Preparation:
1) Preheat oven to 325 degrees
2) Heat a medium sized Dutch oven (3 or
4 quart) over medium-high-heat
until hot.
3) Season the veal cubes with salt and
pepper and toss to coat.
4) Film the bottom of the pan with peanut
oil.
5) Carefully add about half of the veal
cubes (taking care not to splash yourself
with hot oil).
Only add just enough to cover the base of the pan in a single
layer (if you
add too much and crowd the pan, they will not brown).
6) Brown over medium high heat --- stir
from time to time to make sure you sear
all the sides
of the meat.
7) Lift the seared veal out of the pot
with a slotted spoon and reserve on a plate.
8) Add a touch more peanut oil and brown
the second batch of meat in a similar
manner.
Again, lift the veal out with a slotted spoon.
9) Turn the heat down to medium-low and
add the chopped onions to the pot and
cook over medium-low-heat
until the onions are soft and translucent
(approximately
10 minutes +/-). Then add the garlic and cook until fragrant
(2 minutes).
Add the veal back into the pot and stir to combine.
10) Add the wine, turn up the heat and bring it to
a boil, and then reduce the heat
to medium and
simmer, reducing the wine by 2/3rds.
11) Add the chicken stock, Porcini mushrooms and Bouquet
Garni, bring it back
to a boil and
then top with a tight fitting lid and pop it into the oven.
12) Cook for about 1 hour, until the veal is tender.
13) To prepare the vegetables: Cut the carrots in
half, length-wise and cut 1/4”-inch
half moon shapes.
14) Cut the leeks in half, cut them into 1/4”-inch
half moon shapes, and wash to
remove the grit.
15) Wipe the Portabella mushroom caps clean, trim
and discard stems, and slice the
caps into 1/8th-inch
slices.
16) Heat a 9” sauté pan over medium-heat. M
17) Melt 1 tablespoon of butter and add the carrot
Half-moons. Then sauté over
brisk heat until
the carrots are cooked 1/2 way through (they should still be crisp)
and lightly golden.
18) Tip out on to a plate, and wipe the sauté
pan clean. Melt a second tablespoon
of butter and
gently cook the leeks over low heat until they are tender --- do
not let them
brown --- if necessary add 2 tablespoons of water so that they can
cook without
crisping (if you add water, cook until the it has evaporated).
19) Tip out on to the plate with the cooked carrots
(keep separated).
20) Wipe the skillet clean and reheat over medium
high heat.
21) Add the last remaining tablespoon of butter with
the olive oil. When hot, add
the Portabella
mushroom slices and sauté until golden brown on both sides.
22) When the veal is tender (approximately 1 hour)
transfer the Dutch oven from
the oven up to
the stovetop.
23) Add the carrots, Portabella mushrooms, cream and
Dijon mustard and stir.
24) Allow to simmer, again covered, over gentle heat
for a half-hour to allow the flavors
to combine.
25) Add the leeks at the last moment.
26) Remove the Bouquet Garni before serving.
27) Good over buttered noodles or spaetzle.
The Spaetzle
Preparation:
1) Combine the eggs, milk and salt and
whisk to thoroughly blend.
2) Sift together the flour and baking
powder and add to the liquid ingredients.
3) Stir to combine.
4) Grate in a touch of fresh nutmeg.
5) The batter should look like a thick
pancake batter (it should drop from a spoon).
6) Cover and let the batter rest for half
an hour.
7) In a three quart-pot, bring a quart
and a half of lightly salted water to a rapid
boil (i.e. half
way up the pot).
8) Balance a metal colander with medium
sized holes over the top of the pot.
9) The boiling water should not quite
touch the bottom --- if it does --- carefully
remove just a
bit.
10) Once you have checked the water level --- remove
the colander (you don’t want
it hot or the
spaetzle dough will cook on the colander, blocking the holes so that
you can’t push
it through).
11) Gather the rest of your equipment, as once you
start to cook, you need to have
everything organized
and in place.
12) You will need a large skimmer, a flexible pastry
scraper, a 9 x 13 pan with 2
tablespoons of
butter cut into 4 or 5 pieces dotting the bottom, and an empty
plate (to put
the dirty colander down on, or you will make a mess of your
counter top!).
13) To cook the spaetzle, balance the colander over
the boiling water, scoop up a
1/4-cup of batter
with the pastry scrapper and quickly push the batter through
the holes in
the colander into the boiling water. Work the scrapper back and forth
across the bottom
and little “rivulets” of dough will drop into the water.
14) After pushing the batter through, place the colander
on the awaiting empty plate.
If you leave
it on the pot, it will heat up too much and when you try to cook the
next batch, the
batter will cook as soon as it hits the colander and will consequently
block up of all
the holes!
15) Once the spaetzle floats, let it cook for another
minute and then scoop it out with
the skimmer (give
it a shake above the pot to drain the water back into the pot)
and tip the cooked
spaetzle into the 9 x 13 pan.
16) Give it a gentle shake to make sure each of the
dumplings is coated in butter.
17) Continue on pushing the spaetzle through in small
batches.
18) Toss each batch in to the buttered dish, and shake
to coat in butter. You might
need to stop
in the middle of the process and wash the calendar (some times the
holes get blocked
up!).
19) To serve, heat a 9-inch skillet over medium-high-heat,
melt the remaining two
tablespoons of
butter.
20) When it is sizzling, toss in the spaetzle and
sauté briefly to crisp.
Good Eating!!!