Around the World with Hardy(T)

Slovakia - The High Tatry (2)


[Continued from Tatry(1)...]

As the weather is eventually clearing, I decide to jump on an early bus to Štrbske Pleso. After a bizarre supermarket experience - you're not allowed in the shop without a basket, but you have to queue for a basket. Mustn't grumble, a few days shopping came to about 60p - and head off into the mountains. It's an excellent decision as I soon leave the crowds behind and begin to stretch those bus-cramped legs of mine. The walk starts easily enough - a very pleasant stroll through the woods with beautiful coloured wildflowers beside the path and the occasional glimpse through the trees of the magnificent Tatry. However, as I'm sat beside the lake at Pleso having a bit of a breather, I notice several tiny figures scrambling up what appears to be a vertical rock face! A quick look at the map confirms that this is the beginning of the path back to Horný Smokovec! [Incidentally, why do Slovakians always wear shell suits, even when out bushwalking?] View from Strbske Pleso

It's actually not that bad (who am I trying to kid?) and I eventually clamber to the top and catch the spectacular views of Štrbske Pleso, which actually turns out to be a huge ski resort with a massive glacial lake as its centrepiece. Must've missed all that on the way up!

Which Way?The Magistrála Trail then turns east and heads towards home along a south facing contour just below the ridge of the Tatry. It's pretty bleak up there as the clouds come back down, and the bare rock is only occasionally interrupted by a swathe of heather or a glacial lake. Of course, when the clouds break, the views are fantastic. The walking paths are very well waymarked but, interestingly enough, the distances are given in hours rather than miles or km. Who calibrates them? Luckily they seem to have been calibrated with my sized legs in mind as I arrived at the Sliezsky Dom chalet bang on time. Possibly the worst cup of coffee I've ever endured at least warms me up and I spend a pleasant few minutes talking to an elderly English couple who had just retired to Slovakia. Takes all sorts, I suppose.

After the chalet, the descent into Horný Smokovec begins and it's a pleasant walk once more through wooded slopes back into the town. I'm feeling quite tired so I treat myself, perhaps unwisely, to a "Bum-Bum" ice cream once I get back. And after a quick wash and brush up, I retire to the hotel and lose myself in a few "Thirsty Monk" beers...

Next stop is the Slovakian capital, Bratislava...


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©Tony Hardy 1998