An Appalachian Country Rag--Distilled Spirits

A Country Rag Distilled Spirits



Autumn Leaves, Winter Arrives

"No groans here as we understand but try to ignore the inevitable. Winter's on its way. My wife, the avid flower gardener, bemoans winter even though she knows that without it there would be no spring burgeoning of blossoms and greenery. Back in high school biology we learned about plants in the northern hemisphere requiring a minimum number of days of freezing temperatures. But in the throes of bleak, icy winter that consolation seems too remote for any comfort.

"Is winter merely a temporary seasonal setback to be endured until the 'good' weather returns? As much as our environment defines us, to the extent we think of Minnesotans as stoic, hardy Norwegian types, our mindset defines us as well. How we regard the dormant months seems to have something to do with how long winter seems to drag on.

"I'm looking out over the valley here on a fall morning, seeing the morning sun cut through the low-slung fog hanging thickly just below the ridge of hills to the west. The reds and golds of hardwoods among the pines will have to suffice for fall foliage viewing this year. We won't make our autumn trip along the Skyline Drive, down the Blue Ridge Parkway and back up the Shenandoah Valley; too many things to do as we prepare for our son's November wedding. Son Tim and his fiancé, Kate, will tie the knot early in November, in ceremonies complete with Scottish pipers, rehearsal dinner and reception. Then, another pair of birds fledge and leave the nest.

"Maybe it will snow by then, considering the way our weather's going so far this year. We're ready for it. There's a stack of dry cordwood and more logs waiting to be split, from last year's oak which had to come down before it fell on the house. The fireplace has been cleaned out for months, ready for a quiet winter evening's fire. I'll sit nearby, reading probably, while my wife will sit on the floor in front of the fireplace, wrapped in her furry robe, working on her new stitchery sampler. The dogs and cats will camp around her, dozing in the heat. Maybe we'll share a glass or two of wine, each doing our own thing, but together. I'll look at her and marvel how lovely she is, how lucky I am, and she'll look up, catch me staring, and ask, 'What?'

"Winter slows us down to make time for such reflections, to take stock of life. Outdoors, winter often blankets everything under several inches of snow, insulating tender plants from cold and softening all sound, so you can almost hear the stars twinkling. Indoors, while the fireplace cracks and pops, I'll put on some music (television being banned on such evenings), and we'll listen to an old recording, Sarah Vaughn singing 'Snowbound.' I'm always mesmerized by her deep, throaty voice on those opening words, 'Lost, lost in a snowstorm. . .' "




"Great-Grandpa Was a Moonshiner"

The World In Your Cup, by Ginger Stone By James Ross Wiley


graphic: The World In Your Cup, computer art, Ginger Stone Studio, Jonesborough, TN



Every year a precious part of Great-Grandpa's small corn crop was ground into meal, made into mash, and then distilled into whiskey. Great-Grandpa was a moonshiner, like his grandpa before him. The first of my distilling ancestors plied his backwoods trade in the post-Revolutionary War days of the 1790s, in southwest Pennsylvania, when it was still a legitimate occupation. That changed in 1791 with the passage of the Excise Act levying additional taxes on whiskey distilling, and after the 1794 Whiskey Rebellion when the "Whiskey Boys" tarred and feathered excise men, nearly starting the second American Revolution. Only when George Washington threatened war on those pioneer settlers did the rebellion end.

When things settled down, and hundreds of moonshiners (non-tax paying distillers) were arrested to be taken to trial all the way back east at Philadelphia, that's when G-G-G-Grandpa and other recalcitrant and rebellious poor settlers took their families, oxen and wagons loaded with as much as they could manage and headed west. The 1795 Greenville Treaty opened up Ohio to settlers, and western Virginia and the brand new state, Kentucky, became more attractive to those pioneers once the Indian wars had moved farther west. The migration was on, again, down the old military roads to the rivers and streams to the Shenandoah Valley, across the gaps and passes in the mountains, as far as eastern Tennessee and western Virginia and North Carolina where people were not so crowded, where a man could live his life freely, as God intended.

Great-Grandpa was among the thousands of tough, independent Scots and Scots-Irish (and Germans) who pushed farther west and south into the hills, mountains, and creek branches of the Appalachians. From the eighteenth century into the early decades of the twentieth, generations of these folk lived isolated from society and "progress," barely eking out existence in those remote mountains. News rarely seeped into those back roads settlements, up steep, narrow roads even horses couldn't negotiate. Families lived as they chose, uninfluenced by the outside world, though extreme isolation and poverty dictated a harsh life.

Great-Grandpa built a rude log cabin along a creek branch, nestled in the mountains just below the poplar range, and seldom traveled more than a few miles from home. He made a "tomahawk" claim by notching a tree at each corner of his land, then quickly began felling trees to build a house before winter. That temporary house, barely improved beyond rough logs and a plank floor, remained the family home for a generation. Windowless, the dark cabin was lit by daylight coming in the open door in summer and by what light seeped in through the chinks and drafty cracks between the logs in the winter. The drafts also were necessary to keep the smoke from the fireplace going up the stone chimney. But the drafts weren't foolproof against a contrary wind.

Up a creek, in a woods remote from his cabin, Great-Grandpa built a tiny lean-to shack, and in it a small "oven" where he could boil down his corn mash. After the mash had cooked about fourteen hours, with constant stirring, it was percolated through a spiral copper tube, called "the worm," from which crystalline drops of Appalachian "white lightning" whiskey were collected in glazed crockery jugs. The still had to be remote because of the distinct aroma of percolating mash, and to protect it from prying eyes of passing strangers or vindictive neighbors who might report on him. A felled spruce tree lay in front of the little shack, further camouflaging it.

Making their own whiskey was as necessary and natural to mountain folk as making soup. In a remoteness where they either made what they needed or did without, folks harvested their meager hillside corn crops and turned part of it into mash, to distill into whiskey. The remainder of the precious crop went for bread flour, and hogs and cows fattened themselves as best they could in the wild, until fattening time, when the spent mash was fed to the hogs. Whiskey was a natural supplement to a Spartan diet. It also constituted one of their few medicinal products, used for everything from antiseptic for cleansing wounds to anesthetic when setting broken bones. Back woods etiquette dictated that you offer a guests and visitors a gourd-cup of whiskey, much the same as any wedding ceremony included toasting the new couple by passing 'round the jug.

Whiskey was as elemental as water and air. There was no stigma attached to enjoying it, and no criminal behavior to making it until the government levied new taxes, during the Civil War. The war time government even made it criminal to convert much needed grains into whiskey. Even so, patriotic and loyal mountain men in those secessionist states volunteered in large numbers to fight for the Union, even when taxes on whiskey doubled and tripled. In later years, as the South went "dry," and later still during Prohibition years, mountain men insisted on their right to make their own whiskey, to sell it if they could. There was precious little else to sell, to pay taxes and buy necessities they couldn't make from natural resources at hand.

To enforce the whiskey excise or "revenue" laws, sheriffs and prosecutors were paid by the number of arrests they made and cases they won. Revenue collection agents similarly profited by prosecution (and persecution) of illegal distillers. Some of the revenuers took the job because it paid better than distilling, with which they were intimately familiar. (Sometimes the job gave a revenuer the opportunity to even an old feud with a rival family, too!) But the mountain man selling his home-distilled whiskey ran the blockades as his ancestors had done since the seventeenth century in England, prepared to defend his rights with a gun. He was merely pursuing his ancestral heritage and time-honored roles, like cattle rustling and blockade running. He was not, in those hills, called a moonshiner, but a "blockader."

There probably remain a few moonlight distillers of white lightning, hidden somewhere up remote "crick branches" where the water runs cold and clear. Except for a government which insists on taxing and licensing, many a mountain man would today be stirring his corn mash, collecting the distilled spirits in jugs and jars, continuing centuries old traditions.




Jim Wiley writes from Akron, Ohio, where he lives with his wife of 34 years and their congregation of dogs and cats, and amid flower gardens (front yard) and forest (back yard). Among several things he's published in various magazines and journals was a story in "Cats & Kittens" coauthored with his first ever cat, titled (equally believably) "Never Teach Your Pets to Talk." Aside from the infrequent pet story, recurring themes fuel his writing such as history, ancestors, genealogy and cultural traditions. "Great-Grandpa Was a Moonshiner" resulted from such historical research as much as did "Harley Quinn," a totally whimsical story about two pension-poor old women who go into the moonshine business, in a big way. "Harley" won the Tennessee Mountain Writers' 1999 fiction contest.

In addition to "Mountain Light," Jim has seen the light in publishing otherwise as well, evidenced by his e-zine publications, recently including "Another Time, Another Place," at www.darkstormy.com. "AT,AP" also taps several recurring themes (young boys, extremely old women, and "magik"), and is likely to be included in an upcoming e-book anthology. It's equally likely to be resurrected soon as a finished novel.







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© James Ross Wiley, December 1999.
Original material © A Country Rag April, 1996. All rights reserved.