On arrival at the starting point of your choice on the Camino, the first requirement is to equip yourself with a pilgrim passport (credencial del peregrino). This is obtainable from specific places in each town and the local refugio or albergue (pilgrim dormitory) will be able to tell you where to get one. You can also research this beforehand in the official guidebooks, depending on your route. South African members can obtain their credencials from the Confraternity. The current price is R50 plus R5 for postage. To become a member/obtain a credencial contact us by email. At present membership is only available to South Africans or residents of South Africa.

The credencial needs to be stamped at an official venue with a rubber stamp (sello) at each of your stopovers, and it has to be presented in order to qualify for accommodation in the refugios. Stamps can also be obtained from the local mayor (alcalde), parish priest (cura), tourist offices, museums and even from some bars. Some obtain the sellos as proof of walking, but many also treasure them as 'souvenirs' of their journey. When you reach Santiago, the credencial becomes your proof of having walked the Camino, and on presentation to the cathedral authorities, they will issue the certificate of pilgrimage (compostela). (To qualify for the compostela you have to have walked at least the last 100km and it is recommended that you obtain at least two stamps per day during this section.) While it is not compulsory to apply for the compostela, most pilgrims appreciate the receipt as part of the closing ritual on arrival in Santiago.

Please see Routes for details on alternative Camino routes and accounts from pilgrims.

Remember, though, that the Camino is not a competition. Be true to yourself and your ideals. Each pilgrim must chose his own options, and walk what he can with the right intentions.

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO WALK THE CAMINO?

WHAT IS THE ROUTE LIKE?

A good tourist map of Northern Spain from the Spanish embassy, tourism board or a travel agent suffices in most cases. Some books also carry maps, but it really is not essential as the Camino Francés route is well signposted with waymarkers bearing the scallop shell, which is the symbol of St James, or with yellow arrows. Signs are found on walls, stones, special boards, all over. Most of the paths have been specially maintained for pilgrims - some brick, some stony, some muddy, some shaded and others open to the bright Spanish sunshine. A few sections next to freeways can be noisy and one needs to be very alert to the speeding traffic. The open sections through industrial areas and places without the shade of trees can be very hot around midday - even in the autumn. At some points there are route alternatives giving the pilgrim the choice of a shorter road route and a more scenic (sometimes longer) option. See Route alternatives.

A useful tip is to spend some time checking out the start of the route the day before so that you know the way out in the morning. It's not difficult but it may be dark - or very busy - when you start out, so a recce will help to point you in the right direction.

HOW DO YOU GET FROM SOUTH AFRICA TO SPAIN?

From England and Germany in particular there are budget flights available to Spain. See section Where can I find out more about the Camino? for airline links. Do not expect any frills or home comforts on these airlines, but they are cheap, efficient and get you to some ideal towns for Camino purposes. Ryanair flies out of Stansted but this is connected by coach to Heathrow and likewise in Germany they fly out of Hahn, a coach ride from Frankfurt airport. The earlier you book the more chance you have of a cheaper flight and the midweek flights are usually cheaper than the weekends for holiday destinations.

Arrival points from other countries in Europe are generally Biarritz in France, or Bilbao, Madrid, Pamplona, Seville, Valladolid, Santiago or Barcelona, depending on where you wish to start walking. See the section How does one get to the starting point? for further details.

From London it is also possible to take a coach and ferry option (main disembarkation points are Santander and Bilbao) but although it may be reasonably priced it will take a couple of days to co-ordinate timing of the various modes of transport.

Visa Applications for South Africans: If you are travelling on a South African passport, you will need to apply for a Schengen Visa which is valid in Spain, Belgium, Luxembourg, Germany, France, Italy, Portugal, The Netherlands, Greece, Austria, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Denmark and Iceland. You should obtain your visa from the embassy/consulate of the country in which you will be staying the longest - not necessarily the country into which you first arrive. If the duration of your stay in Spain is longer than in any of the other countries, then apply for the visa from the Consulate General of Spain, 37 Shortmarket Street, Cape Town 8001 Tel: (021) 4222415 - Fax (021) 4222328 Office Hours: Monday to Friday 08h30 - 13h30 (for submissions & collections) Telephone enquiries until 15h30. You can also apply through the Consulate in Pretoria.

Visa fee:

Cash only – same price for single/multiple entry and any number of days.

€54 (R280,00)

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HOW DOES ONE GET TO THE STARTING POINT?

From Lyons: Take a train to St Etienne, then another to Le Puy. (this is possible in 1 day)

From Paris: Take a train from Paris/Montparnasse to Bayonne, then the high-speed train south to Bayonne or Biarritz.

From Madrid: There are various options: (a) There is a Renfe (train) booking station at the airport. Take the underground (from the airport or other point in Madrid) to the RENFE station, then take a train to Irún (Spanish side)/Hendaye (French side) There are two connections per day. (b) Take a plane or bus to Bilbao (c) take a train (underground from airport to Chamartin station) (2 per day, approx 9h00 & 17h00 (5 hours), or bus (5 hours) or plane to Pamplona

From Bilbao: From the airport (good help at tourist office there) take a bus to Plaza Moyua (1,15 €) and it takes about 15 minutes. (a) Take an ALSA bus (reportedly 6h30, costing 16.50 €) from the terminus at St Mamos (can get there by tram or metro) to Bayonne(duration 3 hours) (b) coach service to Hendaye - ticket and bus stop at Termibus by the Hospital Civile de Basuto. 1hr 50mins €7. (c) take a train to Irún, and walk over the French border to Hendaye. (d) To go via Pamplona or Roncesvalles, take the 6h00 bus to San Sebastian (1 hour), and the 10h00 train to Pamplona (2 hours) and the 18h00 bus to Roncesvalles.

From Irún/Hendaye: take a train to Bayonne (about 1 ½ hours). There are many options. Or take a bus to Bayonne - the bus stop is just after the board at the French Railway station.

From Biarritz: It is possible to fly into Biarritz: (www.biarritz.aéroport.fr) - the airport is close to Bayonne. You can catch a bus or a train to Bayonne station. Another option is to take a half hour taxi ride to St. Jean (about €54 for four people),

From Bayonne: A 1½ hour train journey to St. Jean (three trains per day at approx 9h00, 15h00 and 18h00, only 15h00 on Saturdays - may not run on Sundays) The train fare is 7.70 €. It's a slow train through lovely scenery, and usually only used by pilgrims - so you can start making your first Camino friends! If you want to explore Bayonne while waiting for the train, leave your pack at the Bayonne tourist bureau office. On Saturdays there is a lovely market in the town.

From Pamplona: There are a few options: (a) take the Autocares Artieda (formerly Lamontanesa) bus (18h00) to Roncesvalles (4.35 €) Tel. 948 330 581 Mon-Fri at 18h00 Sat: 14h00 (Not on Sunday) (b) take a taxi to St. Jean (reported 20 € per person - need to share with others). From the airport it takes 2 hours. Luzaide/Valcarlos: Andoni 636191423; From Garralda: Angel Mª 609411449; From Espinal: Francisco 649725951 (c) Contact Express Bourricot taxi service (see details below under Roncesvalles)

The Route Napolean from St. Jean to Roncesvalles traverses 163m - 1440m in 27kms. If you are unfit, consider taking the Road Route, or breaking this stage out of St. Jean by staying at Hunto (7km) or Orisson (10km). For Orisson, it is advisable to book ahead at: refuge.orisson@wanadoo.fr or Tel: 06-81-49-79-56 or 06-86-99-82-03: This route should not be done in winter or in bad weather.

From Madrid: Choose from: (a) There is a Renfe (train) booking station at the airport. Take the underground (from the airport or other point in Madrid) to the RENFE station, then take a train take a train (underground from airport to Chamartin station) (2 per day, approx 9h00 and 17h00 (takes 5 hours) (b) take a bus (takes 5 hours) (c) take a plane

To start from Burgos:
From Madrid: (a) Catch the underground to Avenue America, then Bus (Continental Auto) (takes 3 hours)
(b) You can fly to Valladolid, which is about 130 km from both Burgos, and then catch a bus.
(c) Catch a train

To start from Leon:
From Madrid: Options: (a) catch a train (4 hours) (b) catch a bus (c) Fly to Valladolid, which is about 130 km from Leon, and then catch a bus (d) Fly to Leon with Iberia (40 mins) and then bus from the airport (which is at Virgen del Camino on the Camino route) into the city.

From Bilbao: Take an Alsa bus: 07h45 (7 hours) €28,55 or take a train: 9h15 (6½ hours) €29,00
From Madrid: Take a bus.

To start from O'Cebreiro:
From Madrid: Take an Alsa coach to Piedrafita (5km from O'Cebreiro): 10h00 or 23h59 (5½ hours) €25.48
From Bilbao: Take an Alsa bus to Piedrafita (5km from O'Cebreiro): 7h45 (8 hours) €31.51

WHEN SHOULD ONE GO?

The following descriptions are based on reports from returning pilgrims:
Jan/Feb: very cold with snow - not advisable
March: rainy, windy and moderate to high potential for snow.
April: variable - warm spring sun, sometimes even hot, rain, sleet and snow around the Pyrenees/Roncesvalles, thunderstorms around Sarria & O Cebreiro.
May: for wildflowers spring or early summer is a good time. It is still fresh, but generally warm, (22 - 23 °C) with some rain and wind around O Cebreiro. It can however also be very cold with snow in the north.
June: warm to hot, some rain
July/Aug: generally pretty hot with daily high temperatures on the meseta (Burgos to Léon) up to 40°C. This is the time to be in Santiago for the Feast Day on 25 July. It is also traditional holiday time in Europe, so the route tends to be busiest.
Sep: generally warm days and cool early mornings and nights. Rain from around O Cebreiro intermittent, increasing towards Santiago. There are still a few wildflowers in Navarre and La Rioja, and broom blooms in Galicia. The meseta fields are brown and dry and field crops mostly harvested except vineyards around La Rioja and Villafranca del Bierzo.
October: cooling down and windy, especially around the Pyrenees, O Cebreiro and other high places. It can be chilly early on, with rains, cloud, fog and even snow always possible. This is chestnut season! Dark till around 8am so its not easy to set out early.
Nov/Dec: very cold with snow - not advisable

HOW FIT DO YOU HAVE TO BE?

Age doesn't have to be a deterrent. Pilgrims range in age from babes being pushed in prams to octogenarians. However, if you have led a sedentary life it is advisable to train beforehand and have a thorough check up with your medical practitioner before starting out.

Remember that every pilgrim experiences some days of discomfort as the body becomes acclimatised to walking day after day. At times it's hard to accept and you'll wonder why you chose to do the pilgrimage. Find consolation in the fact that it does get better - and find your own pace.

WHAT ABOUT MEDICAL CARE AND EMERGENCIES?

Training aside, many people do get blisters and other aches and pains - especially in the beginning. Some get shin splints, tendonitis and muscle strains, particularly if they do too much too soon. Thankfully most refugios have a doctor or clinic on call and treatment is free for most minor ailments. Many also have volunteers offering therapeutic massage treatments which are most welcome. Many pilgrims have also found that helping others along the way gave them a chance to share, provide moral support and demonstrate solidarity.

First Aid kit: most essentials are readily available from pharmacies (farmacias) Look for a sign with a green cross. So it is not necessary to weigh yourself down with medicine for every eventuality. Basics you might consider would be: a good sun protection cream, Disprin (for headaches, sore muscles etc.), Immodium (for diahorrea), Zambuk, Wonder Rub or Arnica Oil (for foot massage, bruising and other uses), thread, needle and mercurochrome (for the blisters). Foot care: Keep nails trimmed short, and take along clippers or scissors. As blisters are likely to be your main concerns, look out for Compeed products in Spain - excellent plasters, guards and an anti blister stick which you rub on before walking to prevent hot spots. They cover, heal, soothe, take the pressure off a blister and are water-proof. Instructions are often not in English, so remember they have to be soaked to remove them, otherwise you'll rip the new skin. For blisters - thread a piece of cotton through the blister, using a sterilised needle - it serves to drain the fluid but leaves skin intact. The South African version is available under the trade name "Coloplast" and is imported from Denmark. The product name is "Comfeel: Plus transparent hydrocolloid dressing. It is distributed in SA by: AstraZenica for MDI, 374 Anderson Street, Menlopark. 0081. Tel: 011 802 2943. It is also available through pharmacies. Softigel toe guards from Green Cross shops are also useful.

For muscle strain or tired feet try something like Reparil gel or Deep Heat. Many South Africans also chose good old Zambuk to rub their feet and keep from forming blisters. A regular massage with some sort of ointment is worth the effort. Wonder Rub - a sportsmans rub which contains Arnica, Hypericum, Rhustox, Terebinth, Calendule, Brycnia & Euclyptus - and it is also good for aches and pains. It is available in a 100 ml tube from Renaissance, Herbs from Africa label, PO Box 77, Groot Marico. It is only sold by distributors, Jackie Sinek, 021 855 3500 is the Helderberg agent.

Prescription Medication: carry enough with you from home, and make sure you have a signed copy of your prescriptions to validate carrying large amounts of scheduled drugs. If you have specific medical conditions which need to be known during an emergency, make up a card containing all medical information in English and Spanish including blood group, contact details of your doctor, insurance details etc. and keep it with your passport.

Finally take out good travel insurance before you go to cover for major injuries or illness - just to be safe!

Emergency Telephone numbers:	National police 091 Local police: 092 Medical (insalud): 061 Emergencies: 112

S.A. Embassy Madrid:	09 3491 436 3780 sudafrica@arrakkis.es

WHAT ABOUT SECURITY?

Women travelling alone: Hundreds of women travel alone and have no problems. Take normal safety precautions when alone in a city at night.

Dogs: Problem dogs are an urban legend! Most dogs are tied up and the rest seldom cause any problems that can't be handled with a shake of a walking stick. Pilgrims often take their own pets but they do struggle to find accommodation, as few refugios accept dogs.

WHAT DO YOU TAKE WITH YOU?

Footwear and Footcare:
Boots, trainers or sandals? One pair of socks or two? Popping blisters or leaving them alone?
The debates continue about the best options for walking the Camino. Whatever you choose, get them well beforehand so you can wear them in and get used to them before starting the pilgrimage. On the Camino your feet are all important so don't skimp on footwear.

Some pilgrims carry rubber slops (flip flops) but as all bath mats in the albergues are plastic they are less likely to carry fungal foot infections than do wooden ones.

As with boots / shoes don't skimp. Experiment until you've found the type that suit you and don't wait until the last few weeks to make your selection.

We did an informal survey amongst returning pilgrims to find out what type and size backpack one should carry. Consensus was that it's all about travelling light (35 - 45 litre capacity). Most men preferred backpacks with an internal frame, but cautioned on not filling every available space!

Electricity: Most refuges have electricity but not all have kitchens. Spain uses normal European 220 volt current with round two pin plugs.

Loo call: Take a toilet roll, remove cardboard inner and fold it flat - handy when refuges run out of paper or for use along the road. And please respect private property!

Maps: You do not really need maps, as the trail is very well way-marked. Some guidebooks have strip maps for each stage.

Public phones: Available all along the route. You can purchase call cards or use cash.

Cell/mobile phones: Take a plug for Spain to recharge. Switch off when in a church, monastery, museum etc. Vodaphone covers all UK and Spain with the same Sim card.

WHERE DO YOU SLEEP?

The official Camino accommodation (refugios or albergues in Spain or gîte in France) is in simple dormitory-style buildings of various ages and designs. Run by a host of organisations including local municipalities and Friends of the Camino groups, they mostly offer bunks and showers, some with kitchens and living rooms. A few provide pillows and blankets. Bathroom facilities vary quite a lot and if you come late there may be a shortage of hot water. Prepare for the fact that some refugios (mostly the ones in Galicia) have communal facilities for men and women and a few don't have doors on the showers! Somehow the pilgrims all work this out without too much embarrassment or discomfort!

The accommodation varies in comfort levels but mostly pilgrims are so tired that as long as there is a bed or mat to sleep on, they are happy. Some offer communal evening meals for a small amount, others have kitchens with basic utensils. Most have clothes washing areas and lines. Many have opening times around lunchtime (between 13h00 and 15h00) and curfews of 22h00. All expect you to leave by 8h00 in the morning, and you can't spend more than one night in a refugio unless there is a serious reason. Preference is given to walkers over cyclists.

Some refuges only open in June and close again in November. It is first come - first served. When you reach a refuge you secure a bed by placing your pack outside the door. Almost every pilgrim refuge is staffed by volunteers for the sole support of pilgrims from all over the world. Refuges are not a right but a privilege and should be treated as such. Help to keep the refuge clean and welcoming for the next influx of pilgrims. Give a generous donation; be gracious and helpful to the hospitaleros.

South Africans tend to have quite well developed 'personal space' concept and it takes a bit of getting used to the lack of privacy and space. Persevere, as it gets easier after the first day or two, and staying in the refugios is really part of the whole experience. Remember you're not looking for five star comforts on a pilgrimage - otherwise you may as well take a nice little hike around South Africa or drive the route and stay in hotels! The other thing to remember is that many Europeans seem to prefer having the windows and the shutters closed - something foreign to most South African - and Australian - pilgrims who are big on fresh air, so try to find a compromise.

For most pilgrims the accommodation becomes incidental and secondary to the wonderful friendships formed, meals shared and support provided by the hospitaleros (hosts) and fellow pilgrims. Also available in most towns are hostals, which are the local equivalent of our B&B's - but mostly without the breakfast! They provide privacy, a few home comforts and quiet for the pilgrim who needs a break from the refugios. There is a range of basic accommodation offering bed and sometimes private bathrooms (cama con bano or cama combinado) with varying comfort levels.

As with the standard of accommodation, prices for the various refugios and hostals do vary. The least expensive - often the municipal facilities and those run by volunteers - range from "donation based (donativo)" to 4 €. We recommend that at least 3€ be paid as a donation. The private ones range between 6 and 10 €. Some offer breakfast for an additional 3 €. Hostals range from 21 to 54 € for twin bed room with en suite. Some offer breakfast as well. See section What happens when you reach Santiago? for details about accommodation in Santiago.

Camping and alternate accommodation: Rough camping is difficult as there are not many rural places in France or Spain which are public open areas. A guide to accommodation called 'Guia Oficial de Hoteles y Campings del Camino de Santiago' listing all accommodation, ranking, and prices etc including camping sites is available from Spanish tourist offices or Tourspain in Madrid. Email: manuel.jurado@tourspain.es

This is a list of the favourite refugios/albergues as reported by pilgrims after their walk of the Camino Frances route in 2005. Distances in brackets indicate approximate number of kilometers from Santiago.

WHO DOES THE CAMINO AND WHY?

Reasons for walking are as varied as the personalities - time to think, to celebrate reaching retirement or finish studies, to mark time before starting a new life phase, to come to terms with personal challenges, to meet people or simply to get away from it all. For many it is a challenge, a test of endurance or part of a spiritual journey. For those with religious affiliations, it is often a time to distil their thoughts, give thanks or to offer up their sufferings for special intentions. Some start off without a clear reason, but know that they have been called to do the Camino. Those who see it merely as a cheap way to have a holiday tend to exit soon, as walking the Camino without a purpose and very little comfort soon wears thin.

Few people ever complain about their discomforts - there is usually a quiet determination to do what they have set out to do. There is also a strong sense of support and encouragement, of mutual sharing. The camaraderie amongst pilgrims is a really special aspect of the Camino. Most agree that they have goals to achieve, but they are individual - not competitive or comparative ones. Whatever the reason for walking, the Camino is a personal challenge, and it's never fair to judge other people's reasons or commitment. Remember that no matter how fit you are, it requires a strong mental acceptance - and it's by no means a walk in the park.

WHAT IS THERE TO EAT?

Locals tend to have cooked lunches, but pilgrims mostly choose bocadillos (crusty rolls) with cheese, chorizo sausage, sardines or smoked ham (jamon) with fresh fruit, or possibly a tortilla (omelette). Many bars are closed during siesta time (mostly 13h00 to 15h00), so if you plan to arrive somewhere at around that time, stock up beforehand. Picnics in the countryside are always an option when you carry a bit of food with you.

Other readily available treats are almonds and other nuts, good cheeses and some nice packets of biscuits and chips for snacking. The local confectionery shops with their delicious pastries and homemade chocolates are too much to resist, (especially in Astorga - where they also have chocolate factories - and a museum of chocolate!) And of course, in Galicia there is always Santiago Tart (almond tart) for a mid morning boost.

The evening meal is sometimes a communal affair at the refugio with pilgrims sharing their resources and sociability. Some pilgrims choose to cook their own meals such as pasta and salad or cold food. If you chose to cook at the refugios, keep it simple as facilities are minimal, and remember that you will either need to leave surplus behind for following pilgrims or carry loads of leftovers. Some of the refugios have oil and salt available. Many pilgrims take advantage of the special peregrino menus or menu del dia (special of the day) in the local bars. The pilgrim menus are good honest food but can be repetitive. It usually consists of plate 1: mixed salad, soup or pasta; plate 2: beef or chicken or pork or fish or lamb chops with chips; plate 3: dessert is usually pre-made and is crème caramel (flan), ice cream or yoghurt. Most restaurants offer local specialities and the ever-popular tapas - a variety of delicious appetisers to be enjoyed with the local beer or wine. The Spanish tend to eat dinner late - around 21h00 - but many bars are happy to serve famished pilgrims from around 19h00. Remember that many restaurants charge separately for items such as bread (which is often brought to the table unsolicited). So check before you eat!

Pilgrims mostly choose the very acceptable vino de casa, but the excellent red wines of the Rioja province should definitely be sampled if possible. One of the special experiences along the way is the stop at the Fuente del Vino (fountain of wine) in Irache, where the local red is available free of charge to pilgrims who pass the winery. The beers are great and mostly quite cheap by South African standards - and there were different brews in virtually every town.

The amount of water and method for carrying it are personal choices. However, it is essential to carry water, which can be replenished safely at any drinking fountain in the villages except where you see the sign NON POTABLE . Options for water storage include army-style bottles attached to the outside of the pack, simple plastic cooldrink bottles carried in a side pouch or the "Camelbak(tm)" type system often used by cyclists.

Shopping is very simple. There aren't a lot of big supermarkets, as we know them in SA; mostly little bakeries or corner stores with a small range. Other pilgrims and the hospitaleros are generally a good source of information for where to shop - many of the shops are in houses and not immediately obvious to the passer-by. Whatever your preferences, you certainly won't starve!

Food Prices
(averages supplied in 2005)

Apples	0,56 - 0,63 €
Bananas (2)	0,69€
Beer, beer with lemon	1 - 2,5 €
Bocadillo (baguette with either salami, cheese, etc)	2 - 3 €
Bread (baguette)	1,5 €
Coffee: (café solo - small black) (café con leche - coffee with milk)	1,5 € 1 - 3 €
Cold Drinks: Tin 7 Up Pepsi Coca Cola, Coke Light, Fanta	0,80 € 0,45 - 1 € 0,60 - 1,2 €
Cream Cheese	1,75€
Cream crackers	1,50€
Sausage (chorico about the size of a small salami)	3,5 - 4 €
Fruit (eg. Pears, etc.)	80c -1,5 €
Hamburger, chips and a beer	4.90 €
Medium size box breakfast cereal	2,50 €
Microwaveable Lentil Stew	3,45 €
Milk carton, long life	1,05 €
Muesli Bars (Bokomo type): each for box of eight	0,50 € 3,30 €
Orange Juice: 1 litre carton Freshly squeezed	1,20 - 1,47 € 1,8 - 3 €
Pasta dishes	3 - 4.50 €
Potato chips (crisps) large packet	0,61 €
Salad (insalata mista)	3 €
Sardines and tuna tin	0,60 - 2 €
Soup	3 €
Tortilla	2,0 €
Wine, glass of red (vino tinto)	0,60€
Yoghurt, 500g tub	0,65 €

Menu del dia (normally a choice of 2 courses)	7 - 10 €
Menu del peregrinos (3 course with wine, water & bread)	6 - 12 €
Food from a supermarket, sharing costs between 4 - 6 people	2 to 5 €

Restaurants recommended:
Alongos 11 Pulperia in Melide for a feast of pulpo (octopus) and delightful restaurateurs

WHAT ABOUT LANGUAGE?

SPANISH - grammar guidelines
c - soft before e and i, hard otherwise ; 'cerca' (near) is pronounced 'therka'.
g - as for c - guttaral h sound before e and i and a hard g otherwise; 'gigante' (giant) becomes 'higante'.
h - is always silent.
j - has a guttural h sound similar to that of g; 'jamon' (ham) is pronounced 'hamon'.
ll - is easiest to say simply as y, so 'tortilla' (omelette) becomes 'torteeya'.
n - is as in Eng. unless there's a tilda (accent) on it when it is pronounced ny; 'Espana' (Spain) sounds like 'Espanya'.
qu - is pronounced like an Eng. k.
v - sounds more like b; 'vino' sounds like 'beano'.
z is the same as a soft c; so 'cerveza' (beer) becomes 'thervetha'.
Vowels are straightforward, but remember, that even when they come together they keep their separate sounds; thus 'real' (royal) is pronounced 'rayahl'.
Dictionary don't forget that in Spanish ch, ll, and n count as separate letters and are listed after the cs, ls and ns, respectively.
One of the most useful words is 'hay' (pronounced 'aye') which means 'there is'. By changing inflection it becomes 'is there' e.g. 'Hay una playa aqui?' (is there a beach here?); "Hay una habitacion?" ( have you a room?); or even 'Hay pan?' (is there any bread?). Bars often display signs like "Hay gamba.' meaning we have prawns. In shops it is better to use the phrase 'Tiene usted . . ?' - do you have - though it is enough to just say e.g. "Tiene queso?' if you want some cheese, or 'Tiene hora?' if you want the time.
Pronouns - 'usted' is you, 'yo' is I , 'nosotros' is we, but are rarely used in the spoken language.

SPANISH - Common Phrases:

Hello pilgrim, have a good pilgrimage!	Hola peregrino, buen Camino!
Yes	Sí
No	No
OK	Vale
Thank you	Gracias
Thank you very much	Muchas gracias
You're welcome	De nada
Please	Por favor
Excuse me	Discúlpeme
Sorry/excuse me	perdone
Hello	Hola/¡Ola!
Welcome	Bienvenido.
Goodbye	Adiós
So long/see you later	Hasta luego
Can you help me, please?	¿Puedes ayudarme, por favor?
Good morning	Buenos días
Good afternoon	Buenas tardes
Good evening	Buenas noches
Good night	Buenas noches
I do not understand	No entiendo
How do you say this in [Spanish]?	¿Cómo se dice esto en [Español]?
Do you speak ...	Habla usted ...
English	inglés
French	francés
German	alemán
Spanish	español
I	Yo
We	Nosotros
You singular, familiar	Tú
You singular, formal	Usted
You plural	Ustedes Vosotros
They	Ellos (m), Ellas (f)
What is your name?	¿Cómo se llama usted?/ ¿Cuál es su nombre?
My name is ….	Me llamo …
Nice to meet you.	Encantado de conocerle/mucho gusto.
How are you?	¿Cómo estás?/ ¿Qué pasa?
How are things?	¿Qué tal?
Good	Bien
I am fine thank you	Muy bien gracias
Bad	Mal
So so	Más o menos, Así así
It is nice weather today.	Hace buen día.
Wife	la esposa
Husband	el esposo, el marido
Daughter	la hija
Son	el hijo
Mother	la madre
Father	el padre
Friend	el amigo (m), la amiga (f)
Birthday	los cumpleaños
Happy Birthday	Feliz cumpleaños
Good night and sleep well.	Hasta mañana, que descanses.
What is your e-mail address?	¿Cuál es tu dirección de correo electrónico?
I love you.	Te quiero.
Can one. . .	Se puede…
I'd like . . .	Quiero . . .
I don't know.	No se.
Do you know . . .	Sabe . .
Tell me . . .	Digame
Look	mira
Listen	oiga
What	que
When	cuando
Let's go	vamos
Okay, that's fine, thanks a lot.	Vale, muy bien, muchas gracias.
That's very kind of you.	Es muy amable.

Numbers:

zero	cero
one	uno
two	dos
three	tres
four	cuatro
five	cinco
six	seis
seven	siete
eight	ocho
nine	nueve
ten	diez
eleven	once
twelve	doce
thirteen	trece
fourteen	catorce
fifteen	quince
sixteen	dieciséis
seventeen	diecisiete
eighteen	dieciocho
nineteen	diecinueve
twenty	veinte
twenty one	veintiuno, veinte y uno
thirty	treinta
forty	cuarenta
fifty	cincuenta
sixty	sesenta
seventy	setenta
eighty	ochenta
ninety	noventa
one hundred	cien
one thousand	mil
one million	un millón

Shopping:

How much does this cost?	¿Cuánto cuesta? ¿Cuál es el precio?
What is this?	¿Qué es?
I'll buy it.	Lo compro.
I would like to buy...	Me gustaría comprar...
Do you have...	¿Tiene usted...?
Do you accept credit cards?	¿Aceptan tarjetas de crédito?
Open	Abierto
Closed	Cerrado
Post office	la oficina de correo/correos
Stamps	los sellos, los timbres, las estampillas
(two) stamps	(dos) sellos
Postcard	la postal
A little	Un poco
More	mas
A lot	mucho
All	todo
That	eso
This	esto
Museum	el museo
Bank	el banco
Change	cambio
Pharmacy, Chemists	la farmacia
I have blisters	Tengo ampollas
Shoemaker	Zapatero
Store, Shop	la tienda

Food:

What is your favourite meal?	¿Cuál es tu plato preferido?
Would you like to have some coffee?	¿Te apetece un café?
Restaurant	el restaurante
Cheers	¡Salud!
Bon appetit	¡Que aproveche!
Breakfast	el desayuno
Lunch	el almuerzo la comida
Dinner	la cena
Vegetarian	vegetariano (m) vegetariana (f)
Kosher	Conforme al régimen alimenticio judío
Cheers!	¡Salud!
Please bring the bill.	¿Me trae la cuenta por favor?
What (hot) snacks do you have?	¿Que tapas (de cocina) tienen?
I'd like 2 plates/2 glasses.	Quiero dos platos (dos vasos)
What's this?	Que es esto?
How much is it?	Cuanto es?
What's this called in Spanish?	¿Como se llama esto español?
Bread	el pan
Beverage	la bebida
Coffee	el café
Tea	el té
Milk	leche
Juice	el jugo, el zumo
Water	el agua
Beer	la cerveza
Wine	el vino
Red Wine	vino tinto
Salt	la sal
Pepper	la pimienta
Meat	la carne
Beef	la ternera, la carne de vaca, el res
Pork	el puerco
Fish	el pescado
Poultry	las aves
Vegetable	las verduras
Fruit	la fruta
Potato	la patata, la papa
Salad	la ensalada
Dessert	el postre
Ice cream	el helado

Directions & Places:

Where	donde,
Where is the bathroom?	¿Dónde está el baño?
Left	la izquierda
Right	la derecha
Straight	derecho, directo
Up	arriba
Down	abajo
Far	lejos
Near	cerca
Here	aquí
There	alli
Long	largo (m), larga (f)
Short	corto (m), corta (f)
Map	el mapa
Tourist Information	Información turística
Street	calle
Police station	la estación de policía; la comisaría de policía
Hospital	el hospital
School	la escuela
Church	la iglesia
Chapel	ermita
Restrooms	los baños/ los sanitarios/ los servicios
Ladies	damas
Gents	caballeros
Street	la calle
Square	la plaza
Mountain	la montaña
Hill	la colina
Valley	el valle
Ocean	el océano
Lake	el lago
River	el río
Bridge	el puente
Park	parque
Exit	salida
Ticket (to)	billete (para)
The train station	el estacion de tren/ferrocarriles
Have a good trip.	Buen viaje
Return	ida y vuelta
How do I get to . . ?	¿Para ir a . . . ?
Where is the bus station?	¿Donde esta el estacion de autobuses?
Where could I get a taxi?	¿Dónde puedo encontrar un taxi?
The bus stop for (Finisterre)	la parada del autobus para (Finisterre)
Where does the bus to (Pamplona) leave from?	¿De donde sale el autobus para (Pamplona)?
Is this the train for Burgos?	¿Es este el tren para Burgos?
Stop here please.	para aqui, por favor.
What time does it leave (arrive in Santiago?)	¿A que hora sale (llega en Santiago?)
Where's the road to Astorga?	¿Donde esta la carretera para Astorga?
I'm going to . . .	voy a . . .
Where are you going?	¿Donde va ?
Is there a refuge nearby?	¿Hay una refugio cerca?
I'd like a room.	Quiero una habitación.
It's for one person/2 people	Es para una persona/dos personas
It's for one night/one week	Es para une noche /una semana
It's fine	Esta bien
It's no good	No esta bien
I'll take it, how much is it?	La tomo, cuanto es?
It's very expensive, I won't take it.	Es muy caro, no la tomo
Have you a cheaper room?	Tiene alguna otra casa mas barata?
With a shower (hot/cold)	Con ducha (caliente/frio)
Can we camp (near) here?	¿Se puede acampar aqui (cerca)?
I need a dentist/doctor.	Necesito un dentista/medico.

Time:

What time is it?	¿Qué hora es?
Now	ahora
later	mas tarde
Seven thirteen	Son las siete y trece
Three fifteen	Son las tres y quince
A quarter past three	Son las tres y cuarto
Eleven thirty	Son las once treinta [rare]
Half past eleven	Son las once y media
One forty-five	Es la una cuarenta y cinco
A quarter to two	Cuarto para las dos. Las dos menos cuarto.
Day	el día
Week	la semana
Month	el mes
Year	el año
Spring	la primavera
Summer	el verano
Fall, Autumn	el otoño
Winter	el invierno
Today	hoy
Yesterday	ayer
Tomorrow	mañana
Monday	lunes
Tuesday	martes
Wednesday	miércoles
Thursday	jueves
Friday	viernes
Saturday	sábado
Sunday	domingo
January	enero
February	febrero
March	marzo
April	abril
May	mayo
June	junio
July	julio
August	agosto
September	septiembre
October	octubre
November	noviembre
December	diciembre

WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU REACH SANTIAGO?

Be aware that after completing the pilgrimage, very often people have a bit of a downer - either exhaustion or a feeling of depression or anti-climax. You'll just need to be gentle with yourself, and try to ease back into your normal life slowly, enjoying those never ending memories and flashbacks to the Camino.

Accommodation and Eating in Santiago:
The following recommendations were received during 2005:

Hostal la Estella - just off the main Cathedral square (at the foot of the stairs off Praza do Obradoiro) and not too expensive. However it is necessary to book in advance or you might not get a room, as they are not strictly geared for pilgrims. Address Avenida de Raxoi 1. Tel: 981 58 27 96.

Hotel Pazo de Agra in R.C. Paya - it is attached to the restaurant Zingara which is round the corner in Rua dos Orfas. (32 € per room per night) and the people running it are charming - also it is only about 3 minutes walk from the Cathedral, more or less en route to the refugio.

Hostal Fornos on the outskirts of the Old Town. Very convenient for Cathedral and bus.

Bar Latita in Rua Nova. A good, clean room with bathroom across corridor 15 €. Breakfast (6€ for coffee, toast and orange juice) and lunch (12€ or R90 for calamari, salad, water and coffee) in the bar.

Hotel Pombal or Hotel San Clement - 10 minutes from the old city, are very good and priced around 80€ per night for a double room. The tourist info will give you the addresses or the internet.

Often ladies renting out their flats hang around the pilgrim office in Santiago (where you get your certificate) - their flats are cheap, clean and convenient (if in a group)

Casa Manolo in Via Traversa is recommended for meals - but queues at peak times can put one off!

And don't forget the free meals at Hotel de los Reyes Catolicos for pilgrims who can present a compostela, are an experience not to be missed!! Limited numbers per meal.

Finisterre: There is a bus service from Santiago to Finisterre (Fisterre) every day. Also you could hire a car for the day. It takes about 3 hours by the coastal road to get there and it is a very long walk from the bus to the cape itself. There are two per day from the Bus Station in Santiago.

(a) Bus (2 € ) or taxi (15 € and takes 20 mins.) to airport near Lavacolla, then Ryanair or GO airlines to Stansted.
(b) Overnight sleeper train to Madrid leaves at about 10pm and arrives in Madrid at about 7am the next morning - about 50 €.
(c) Iberia airline to Madrid/Barcelona - they offer pilgrims with Compostela a discount on completion of pilgrimage.
(d) Easy Jet from La Corunna
(e) Hire a car from ATESA (cost excluding petrol approx 95€ for a day 400km free travel.) Bookings can be organised through an agency in Hotel de los Reyes Catolicos
(f) Bus to Madrid (Tel: 981 542 416)

At the Oficina del Peregrino near the cathedral you can make travel reservations and also get a city map.

Catch a bus to Ferrol, (overnight accommodation at Hostel Zahara), then catch a train at 7.50 am next morning to Santander. (There are hostals close to the station), and then a train to Bilbao. (Or Ferrol to Bilbao by Feve train). Then Ryanair or GO airline to Stansted.

WHAT DOES IT COST TO WALK THE CAMINO?

Most of the small café-bars, village shops, side-of-the-road sellers etc don't accept credit (visa) cards or travellers cheques, so you will need to carry a certain amount of cash with you. There are ATM's in many villages, towns and cities along the way, so having your credit card activated for this is ideal. Just remember that they mostly use a four pin number, so if you have a five pin number, use the first four digits. The other reason why credit cards are useful is that banks are often closed in the afternoons, making it difficult to arrive in a suitable place at the right time to change money. Just a word of advice - certain banks will not let you access cash on your card (even in an emergency such as losing your traveller's cheques etc) unless you have deposited money into your account, even if you have not overdrawn your credit rating - check this out before leaving home! Credit (visa) cards can usually be used in hotels and upmarket restaurants, but confirm before ordering/booking in! Traveller's cheques can be a problem for small banks that do not have foreign exchange.

WHERE CAN I FIND OUT MORE ABOUT THE CAMINO?

Books in English:

Title	Author	References & Contacts	Description
GUIDES TO CARRY
Pilgrim Guide to Spain, 1. The Camino Frances	The Confraternity of Saint James	2005 www.csj.org.uk	Up to date and useful information about refugios, accommodation, meals and other basic information. 250g
"The Way of St James"	Alison Raju	2000 ISBN 1 85284 271 7 www.csj.org.uk	Excellent Guide Book
A Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino Frances	John Brierley	2003 Findhorn Press ISBN 1-84409-010-8 www.caminoguides.com	Thorough guide book with both practical and spiritual facets. 450g
A Pilgrim’s Guide Camino Portugués: The Portuguese Way of St James	John Brierley	ISBN 1844090558 (paperback) 2005 www.caminoguides.com www.kalahari.net	A first ever guide to the increasingly popular Camino Portugues with detailed route and accommodation description, colour maps and street plans from Porto to Santiago.
Pilgrim’s Guide to Camino Fisterra: Santiago de Compostella to Finisterre including the Muxia extensión.	John Brierley	ISBN 1844090027 (paperback) 2003 www.kalahari.net	A guide book with full colour pictures and maps.
Walking the Via de la Plata: Spain – The Camino de Santiago from Sevilla to Santiago de Compostela and on to Finisterre	Benjamin Cole and Bethan Davies	ISBN 0973169818 (softcover) 2004 www.kalahari.net	Step by step directions with detailed sketch maps for the spectacular 1000km walk. Description of historical and religious landmarks as well as practical info including pilgrim hostels.
Walking the Camino de Santiago	Benjamin Cole and Bethan Davies	ISBN 097316980X (paperback) 2003 www.kalahari.net
Lonely Planet Walking Guides: Walking in Spain	Ed: Miles Roddis	ISBN 174059245X (softcover) 2003 www.kalahari.net	This guide features detailed descriptions of 57 great walks with precise two-colour maps, complete coverage of the pilgrims’ route, illustrated guide to Spain's wildlife, accommodation and transport options.
The Pilgrim's Guide to the Camino de Santiago	Elias Valina	1992 Unsure of availability	Guidebook with photos, maps and commentary.
INNER JOURNEYS
Walking to Santiago	Mary E Wilkie	Book out of print but available from the author	An Australian woman walked from Paris to Santiago in 1998
Pilgrim Stories – On and off the Road to Santiago	Nancy Louise Frey	ISBN 0520210840 (paper) ISBN 0520217519 (hard cover) 1998 www.amazon.com www.kalahari.net	An anthropologist’s thesis on pilgrim stories giving a good idea of the inner Camino.
The Camino	Shirley Maclaine	ISBN 0-7434-0072-0 (hardcover) 2001 www.kalahari.net	A personal, very unusual perspective with a strong esoteric streak and some offbeat views.
My Camino	Sue Kenney	2004, White Knight Publications, Toronto www.suekenney.ca/mycaminobook.html	A spiritual story of a woman confronting her deepest fears.
Walking Home on the Camino de Santiago	Linda L. Lasswell	ISBN 0974959723 (paperback) 2005	A fictionalized account of her on-again, off-again pilgrimage, sometimes surreal, sometimes poignant, often thought provoking, sharing her internal and external explorations.
The Singular Pilgrim: Travels on Sacred Ground	Rosemary Mahoney	ISBN 0618446656 (paperback) 2004 www.kalahari.net	An "enlightening but also very funny" account of one woman's personal quest to find the roots of belief among modern religious pilgrims.
The Pilgrimage	Paulo Coelho	1992 Harper Collins Soft or hard cover as well as art book format and DVD. Available through most book shops.	An account of an inner quest along the Camino.
The lotus that blossoms on the Camino: a spiritual and therapeutic journey to Santiago de Compostela through the chakras.	Lawrence Body	2004 WalktheSnake Books www.santiagochakras.com www.csj.org.uk	This therapist living in Andalucia uses representations of the chakras, linking them to events along the route and personal observations.
Fumbling: A Pilgrimage Tale of Love, Grief and Spiritual Renewal on the Camino de Santiago	Kerry Egan	2004, Doubleday ISBN 0-385-50765-8	With candour and humour, Egan recounts her journey as a way of dealing with grief.
El Camino. Walking to Santiago de Compostela	Lee Hoinacki	1996 Pennsylvania State University Press ISBN 0-271-01612-4 (hard cover) www.kalahari.net	Daily account of the journey with reflections on the personal experience, history, religion and cultural aspects.
Therapy	David Lodge	ISBN 0140253580 (paperback) www.amazon.com	Humorous – with section 4 covering the Caminol
Paths of the Christian Mysteries: From Compostela to the New World	Manfred Schmidt-Brabant and Virginia Sease	ISBN : 1902636430 (softcover) 2003 www.kalahari.net
Walk in a Relaxed Manner: Life Lessons from the Camino	Joyce Rupp	ISBN 1570756163 (softcover) 2005 www.kalahari.net	At age 60 the author didn't know what she was getting into when she began her 47-day pilgrimage. She learned lessons that can help us travel on life's journey with more grace and lightness.
Foot by Foot to Santiago de Compostela	Judy Foot	foot@naform.freeserve.com	Sponsored walk as told by an English pilgrim.
REFERENCES
The Pilgrim's Road to Santiago	Millán Bravo Lozano	Everest 1998 ISBN 84-241-3833-3 www.amazon.co.uk	Good maps, picture & commentary. The book is too heavy to carry but includes maps for each day that you can carry.
The Pilgrimage to Santiago	Edwin Mullins		An analysis of the art, architecture, legends and history of the route from Paris to Santiago.
The Grace of Pilgrimage. Santiago de Compostela	Adam Bujak	1999 ISBN 83-907760-4-9	A rich, large format photographic documentary ending with a short commentary on the Camino.
The Pilgrim Guide to Santiago de Compostela	Annie Shaver-Crandell and Paula Gerson		English translation of the original 12^th C Latin "Pilgrim Guide" as well listing all important towns, buildings & monuments encountered by the 12th Century pilgrim.)
A Walk from Gibraltar to La Coruna	Christabel Watson	2005 www.csj.org.uk	Diary of her journey including the Via de la Plata, with colour plates.
Have you ever done the Camino?	Gordon Bell	Email: crescentroad@mweb.co.za	Humorous anecdotes, stories and advice on the Camino from a South African father and son.
The Pilgrimage Road To Santiago: The Complete Cultural Handbook	David M Gitlitz and Linda Kay Davidson	Edilesa, 2000 ISBN 0-312-25416-4 (paperback) www.amazon.com	A cultural handbook that includes the art and architecture, geology, history, folklore, flora and fauna as well as the saints' lives.
The Pilgrim Route to Santiago	Antionio Vinayo Gonzalez	Edilesa, 1999 edilesa@fedecali.es	Pictures, maps and a written narrative. Bit bulky to carry.
The Pilgrimage to Compostela In The Middle Ages	Maryjane Dunn and Linda Kay Davidson	ISBN 0415928958 (paperback) 0815316380 (hard cover) www.amazon.com	An academic study of the Camino of the Middle Ages.
The Pilgrimage to Santiago	Edwin Mullins		An analysis of the art, architecture, legends and history of the route from Paris to Santiago
ARMCHAIR TRAVEL & FICTION
Iberia	James Michener		Not specifically about the Camino, but has some interesting passages on Leon cathedral and O’Cebreiro
Dandelion Soup	Babs Horton	ISBN 074344972X (softcover) 2004 www.kalahari.net	A novel: In 1947, in a remote village in Ireland, Solly Benjamin is roused in the night to find a small child on his doorstep - abandoned by her mother on the Camino. Together they embark on an epic journey to piece together her story.
Buen Camino	Eleanor and Jim Clem	ISBN 1589613422 (paperback) 2004 www.kalahari.net	The day to day account of two modern day pilgrims, with over 160 photos, and practical description of life on the trail.
Santiago de Compostela – Journal of our Camino	Nancy and Roger Rhoades	ISBN 0595360580 (soft cover) 2205 www.kalahari.net
The Field of Stars	Nicholas Luard	Possibly out of print.	English author relates his experiences
Walking for Wildlife: El Camino to Santiago de Compostela	Jean Ann Buck	ISBN 1844262839 (paperback) 2004 www.kalahari.net
Spanish Pilgrimage - A Canter to St James	Robin Hanbury-Tenison		Robin, his wife and 4 yr old son travelled the route on horses in 1991
Off the Road	Jack Hitt	Out of print	Hilarious account of his camino including 3 days with a donkey
Pilgrim Snail	Ben Nimmo	Out of print – try second hand outlets or libraries www.amazon.com ISBN 0007104731 (paperback)	Walked from Canterbury to Santiago carrying his trombone!
Roads To Santiago	Cees Nooteboom	ISBN 186046419X (paper) www.amazon.com
Spanish Steps	Tim Moore	2004 Random House	Tongue in cheek account of an English pilgrim traveling on a donkey.
Walking to Santiago	Mary E. Wilkie	Book out of print available from author.	An Australian woman who walked from Paris to Santiago in 1998
Pilgrimage to the End of the World	Conrad Rudolph	www.amazon.com	Small book detailing a journey from Le Puy to Santiago, blending history, spiritual and physical commentaries.
Following the Milky Way: A Pilgrimage on the Camino de Santiago	Elyn Aviva	ISBN 0971060908 (paperback) 2001 www.kalahari.net
Dead End on the Camino	Elyn Aviva	ISBN 0971060916 (paperback) www.amazon.com	A fictional story, to quote the back cover "Murder, mayhem, and mystery accompany anthropologist Noa Webster on her treasure hunt on the Camino de Santiago
Hug for the Apostle	Laurie Dennet	1987	A pilgrimage from Chartres to Santiago in aid of Multiple Sclerosis research

See www.csj.org.uk and www.santiago.ca/books.html (Canada) for a comprehensive list of books and papers available through their bookshops. www.kalahari.net is a quick option for South Africans. Please note that books have been categorised as accurately as possible – we welcome any feedback about books or requests to update descriptions.

Videos & DVD’s

· A selection of DVD’s produced in various languages as part of the Xacobeo 2004 Holy Year productions: 1. The Goal of the Camino (discusses the Cathedral and nearby sites using a 360˚ format.) 2. The way to the Goal. They can be bought from the shops at the Cathedral, the Cathedral Museum and the store at the Pilgrims' Office. Cost 20 € each.

· DVD - Camino de Santiago. This is a five hour production supposedly covering a modern times pilgrimage includes an international ring of art-thieves, the murder of a prostitute, several love affairs... etc. etc. The international cast includes Anthony Quinn, Robert Wagner and Charlton Heston - all speaking Spanish! The movie comes in 2 Discs, its ID number is 8 431804 009111 and it is distributed by El Corte Ingles and Producciones JRB www.produccionesJRB.com jrb@produccionesjrb.com

· Art critic Brian Sewell was encouraged to make the pilgrimage to Santiago for a TV film. The resulting series of 6 programmes The Naked Pilgrim: The Road to Santiago is available on DVD (£19.99) and VHS video (£18.99). Order from post@WagTV.com

Music

· Impressions of a Pilgrimage by Dick Le Mair, composer, producer and percussionist from Holland. His Camino started as a musical project, but it soon became a spiritual experience. He has recorded a 15 part symphonic work, reflecting his inspiration from the first moment when he had this longing to follow the road to Santiago until the finale which features the magnificent organ in Santiago Cathedral. Sample the music and order a CD from his website: www.pilgrimagetosantiago.com 18, 86€ inc post to South Africa.

· "Yet To Be"! by South African pilgrim Verity will be released shortly. The cost will be R150 which roughly translates to USA 23$, £13 or 19 €. Sample the music and order on her website: www.iamverity.com

· Visit the Canadian pilgrims site: www.santiago.ca/music.html

Websites:

Internet usage if not included in the price at the refugio is about 1 € for 20 minutes.

General tourist information, hostels and accommodation:

www.red2000.com/spain/index.html

www.cyberspain.com

www.madridman.com

http://turismo.navarra.com

www.sispain.org

www.tourspain.es

www.clark.net/pub/jumpsam/wwwspain.htm

www.letsgo.com

www.hostels.com (accommodation)

www.hostelseurope.com

www.worldhotelsyellowpages.com

http://www.metromadrid.es/index.html (good map of Madrid to print in PDF format)

www.spain.info National Tourism information

www.santiagoturismo.com Including accommodation (Rates quoted are for "High" season – could be up to 60% less out of season.)

www.basquecountry-tourism.com Things to do, travel info about Basque areas

www.santiago-today.com news and travel info on Santiago including accommodation

saint.jean.pied.de.port@wanadoo.fr. Tourist office - for accommodation in St Jean

www.espritduchemin.org refuge in St Jean

http://www.comarcasantiago.com/ Commerce of Santiago – accommodation, maps of Galicia, Camino pictures etc

Language:

www.travlang.com

Pilgrim information and groups:

http://www.mundicamino.com

www.caminosantiagocompostela.com General info, journal and links
www.chemins-compostelle.com Association in Southern France

www.xacobeo.es (multilingual site)

http://www.caminhodesantiago.com (Portuguese and English)

www.csj.org.uk Confraternity of St James of UK
www.jacobeo.net (Spanish & English site)

www.caminosantiago.com (Navarran authorities site in English, Spanish, French & Italian)
www.santiago-compostela.net (Galician site)

http://www.galinor.es/c-santiago/index.html - Galician tourism, giving all info on rrefuges, distances etc. in English and Spanish

www.demadridalcamino.org Friends of the Camino, Madrid

www.ultreia.ch Swiss site in English and German

www.ultreya.net

www.stjamesirl.com Irish Association

www.archicompostela.org/Default.htm (archbishopric of Santiago – click on shell to right for a welcome to pilgrims and language links. A variety of info including statistics.)

http://www.consumer-revista.com/caminodesantiago/ (routes, elevations & refugios in Spanish)

http://www.oocities.org/friends_usa_santiago/ American Friends of the Road to Santiago

www.pilgriminspain.net Australian site

www.americanpilgrims.com American Pilgrims on the Camino

www.santiago.ca The Little Company of Pilgrims Canada

www.ultreia.info This site has lots of Camino information.

www.rencesvals.com especially check XACOWEBS for links to all Santiago groups.

www.manjarin.tk The 'last Templar', Tomas Manjarin and his albergue near Cruz de Ferro.

www.csesto.com/shadows/shadowsindex.html personal pilgrim account and pictures

http://welcome.to/caminho-portugues/ - Portuguese routes

http://vppyr.free.fr/vpp-index-etapes.php3 Info on route from Lourdes.

http://www.hautes-pyrenees-rando.com/new-gr101.html Info on the route from Lourdes.

http://www.viaplata.org/ Via de la Plata

http://www.irache.com/hfont.htm Bodegas (winery) Irache

http://gocamino.oakapple.net/library/albergue.pdf (An up-to-date list of albergues on the Camino Frances and what they cost which can be downloaded as a PDF file)

http://www.transbagages.com/default1.asp Baggage transfers

http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/web/es/calculadora/ Budgeting

http://www.caminosantiago.org/ Federation uniting all Spanish Amigos del Camino

http://usuarios.lycos.es/ViaEuropaea/ Via Europaea - Association of the Ways to Santiago on the Internet

http://www.navarra.net/arteyc/camino.htm Amigos del Camino de Santiago de Navarra – mostly Spanish

http://home.earthlink.net/~ometzin/SITE/ultreia.html General info, especially links and refugio list

http://www.godesalco.com/iphp/perfil.php Elevations for Camino Frances, Via Podense, Via Tolosana and Via de la Plata

Special Requirements:

For Camino on cycle check:

www.mundicamino.com

www.csj.org.uk see their guide ‘The Cycling Pilgrim on the Camino Frances” • Way of St. James: Le Puy to Santiago - a Cyclists’ Guide, by John Higginson, Cicerone Press Group

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Santiago_Bicicleta/

http://interam.com/camino/

http://perso.wanadoo.fr/vtt.compostelle/accueil.htm

For Camino on horseback check:

www.elcaminoacaballo.com

http://www.turismo-rural.com/natulacaballo/index.html

www.csj.org.uk see their guide ‘The Way of Saint James on horseback: the complete guide’ by Javier Pascual

http://www.bourricot.com/ Travel with a donkey

Disabled Pilgrims can find info at:

http://www.ibermutuamur.es/camino_santiago/resumen/etapas.htm

Travel in Spain and France:

www.renfe.es/ingles/index.html (Spanish national railways English section of site) Information:.- There isn't a train journey that follow the Santiago de Compostela route Timetable and prices page, regional maps

www.sncf.com French National Railways site has an English section

www.alsa.es (buses)

www.enatcar.es (buses)

http://www.metromadrid.es/index.html time schedules and map of Madrid metro in Spanish
www.sncf.com French railways site

Webcams/Pictures:

http://www.crtvg.es/ingles/CamWeb/primenucamaras2.htm Santiago web cams

http://www.lavozdegalicia.es/galicia360/pelicula.jsp?foto=7 360º panorama in Plaza de Quintana

Chat Groups etc:

http://www.caminhodesantiago.com To join the Camino List chat group, just go to the site and Yahoo will take you through the requirements. When someone sends a letter to the list it appears on everyone's email. It is recommended that you use a separate email address such as a free webmail address for that list to reduce SPAM.

www.google.com If you want to be alerted to articles about Santiago de Compostela you can register with Google and they mail you with links to anything that is posted on the web with the word Santiago de Compostela. Go to Google then click on Alert.

www.iultreia.netThe Camino de Santiago European Institute Foundation has set up an internet site for pilgrims to communicate with one another on the Camino. The Foundation has linked 94 computers in albergues throughout Castilla and Leon. Pilgrims are also invited to leave messages for one another. The site also has information in English. Pilgrims have already used the site to warn each other about 'problem' pilgrims along the route, track conditions, where good/bad cafe-bars etc.

http://gocamino.oakapple.net Electronic mailing list of the American Pilgrims

http://www.groups.yahoo.com/group/ultreya/

http://es.groups.yahoo.com/group/camino-de-santiago/ Camino de Santiago" E-zine in Spanish

http://groups.msn.com/ElCaminoSantiago

Tours:

www.inspire-network.com Jacques Theron from Cape Town runs group walks with a spiritual base.

www.spanishsteps.com Spanish Steps offers a 35 day camino tour with continuous walking from Roncesvalles to Santiago de Compostela. The tour includes accommodation, lunches, and baggage transport.

http://www.onfootinspain.com On Foot in Spain is an owner-guided small-group walking tours company that leads walks along the Camino de Santiago.

Air Travel:

Online bookings:

www.travelocity.com

www.onetravel.com

www.expedia.com

Airlines:

www.britishmidland.com BMI British Midland Heathrow to Madrid

www.britishairways.com British Airways Birmingham, Heathrow, Gatwick, Stansted to Bilbao, Barcelona, Madrid

www.easyjet.com budget flights, Bristol, Gatwick, Stansted to Bilbao, Barcelona, Madrid

www.iberia.com Iberia Heathrow, Gatwick, Manchester, Cape Town, Johannesburg to Bilbao, Barcelona, Madrid; Santiago to Barcelona or Madrid, Madrid to Pamplona

www.flymonarch.com Manchester to Barcelona, Madrid

www.ryanair.com budget flights, Birmingham, Liverpool, Prestwick, Stansted to Biarritz, Pau, Santander, Valladolid & Zaragoza

www.spanair.com budget flights, Barcelona to Madrid, Bilbao, Santiago

www.lufthansa.com Frankfurt to Madrid, Barcelona, Bilbao

http://www.germanwings.com/skylights/cgi-bin/skylights.cgi?language=EN German Wings operates from the Conrad Adenauer Airport which serves Cologne and Bonn. Press the home key if you want more detail. (To get there you could catch the ICE from Frankfurt to Cologne and then the Airport train from the Cologne Station.)

Last minute bookings:

www.lastminute.co.za

www.lastminutetravel.com

Books:

www.kalahari.net

www.exclusivebooks.com

www.amazon.com

www.whsmith.co.uk

Cybercafes on the Camino:

http://www.cybercafes.com/country.asp?selectcountry=Spain
www.jakobus-info.de/unser_weg/cybercafe.htm

Weather:

www.xunta/esconselle/cma/index.htm weather updates along the camino