Basic Principals of Design for Dress

Some of the things that I apply across the board no mater what it is I am sewing.

Toss ideas around with friends. Once you have given them voice ideas become clearer. Some ideas will dissolve in the ether, others will grow.

Wright your ideas down. Have a work book you can record you ideas in as they come to you and make sketches. You can also use this book to keep swatches of fabric and trim in for projects.

Always wash your fabric before you make it up. This includes ironing and if you intend to tumble dry the finished article, do it before you cut it. This includes linings interfacings and padding. If they are going to shrink, it's best to do it before you spend all that time making it.

When washing for the first time throw in a generous hand full of salt to help set the colour. If the rinse water is still tinted with colour then you may have to repeat the process several times until the water runs clear. This can be the case with silk especially.

If you intend to wash the finished article in hot water, start that way with the pre wash.

2. After washing you know which fabrics have been washed and which ones haven't.

Always fold your fabric after you have dried it. Don't allow it to become crumpled or the ironing will be worse than you could imagine.

Ironing is so important. The fabric might look like it doesn't need ironing after washing or tumble drying, but it does affect the finial product.

Some fabrics and trims don't like to be ironed. A pressing cloth might be necessary. A piece of linen or washed calico will usually do.

Trims should also be washed Just like fabric, trim can also shrink. The only exception to this is it you have an item you will only ever have dry cleaned. If you are concerned about how the washing will effect them, then place the trim inside of a lingerie bag and hand wash in a basin. Dry on a towel in the shade to avoid any sun damage.

Allow extra fabric for shrinkage and mistakes when you purchase your fabric. Never count on there being more there if you need it. Even if there is more in the shop you made your initial purchase from, can you be guaranteed that is the same dye lot?

If you are using a napped fabric such as velvet or a one way patterned brocade you may need to allow extra fabric to accommodate the nap or the pattern. Historically this seems to be less of a concern for tailors and seamstresses, but as we are less confined by restrictions on quantity available and the rarity of fabric it's nice to factor this into your budget.

Measure twice, cut once. This is so fundamental as to be ludicrous to feel it necessary to mention. But even I have been guilty of not following this rule.

Fit your pattern before you cut, then fit it again after it is cut and fit it again after it has been stitched together. At each stage the pattern can fit slightly differently.

Sometimes when fitting a new pattern you might find it helpful to make a toile in a similar weight fabric to the finished garment. For instance if you are using a brocade for a gown you might use a cotton drill for the toile. This can then be transferred to paper for future use and the toil can be used as a mounting or lining if it fits correctly.

What is a Toile I hear you ask?: Cut your pattern out of a cheap yet similar weight of fabric that you can fit and make adjustments to before you cut into your expensive dress fabric. It is important to have a similar weight as this will effect the drape and fit of the garment, calico or drill are usually good for this. Remember to fit over your underpinnings i.e. corset, bum roll, farthingale etc that you have already made to wear with your garment! Mark in the seam lines that you intend to have on the finished garment on the toile in one colour and any changes in a different colour so that you can keep a track of adjustments. Add extra seam allowances to the toile so that you can fit it where necessary. Once your are happy with your toile use this to make your final pattern pieces adding in the required seam allowances. Yes this means making the dress twice, at least in part, but it is worth the effort for a perfect fit for your wonderful creation.

Write your name, date, name of pattern piece and what dress the pattern is for on each pattern. I do this so that I know which patterns are most up to date, and which pieces belong to whom, and for what dress.

Use the best quality sewing thread you can afford. buttons and seams popping at in opportune times are not worth the few cents or dollars you think you might have saved.

Sew all seam in the same direction. That is from top to bottom or from the inside out. This does effect the drape and wear of the garment.

Use only good quality scissors for cutting your fabric. Do Not allow these scissors to be used for anything other than your sewing and cutting of fabric.

Have a mirror in your sewing area if at all possible. This will enable you to observe the drape of fabric against yourself before cutting. It will also allow you to make adjustments if you are fitting yourself. If you have a friend helping you, still use your mirror so that you can tell your friend Exactly what you want marked and where.

If you need to get some inspiration on a partially finished garment, hang it on a mannequin. The body shape is better than a flat shape for placing trims to see the over all effect they will have.

Coat hangers are for finished items, not works in progress, but if it is all you have then use it. It's better than folding your work.

After you have finished your garment to the hamming stage, allow it to hang, yes hang. This should be for at least 3 days preferably a week to allow the hem to drop if it is going to.

Wear all the underpinnings and corsetry you will be wearing normally when you fit your dress for hemming. Also the same style of shoes. These things do make a difference to the way you stand and carry yourself and naturally affect the fall of you hem.

Allow yourself plenty of time for you work to come together. If you rush a garment there is always a tendency to skip steps and take short cuts. Please don't do this. You are far better off allowing the extra time. With time and patience all things can be accomplished.

All intellectual content, composition, layout, designs and photographs copyright 2007 to Deborah Lane © , 2003 to Deborah Murray © or Mistress Oonagh O'Neill ©. All Original renaissance art works and artifacts are not copyright to Deborah Lane, and are shown for educational use only. If you see something you'd really like to use, please contact me!