It Was Windy !!
July 1999, Disappointment Cleaver route:
Scott, Becky and I were at Paradise after spending the night at a fabulous spot around 7000'. Scott and I had a couple days until two more friends of mine were meeting us to summit. The weather that day was great, and you can't waste great weather.
So Scott and I were going to go for the summit twice in three days. We left Paradise on Tuesday at 3:00 and got up to Camp Muir at 7:00. I always love that climb! The weather was nice, except for the worst smog I've ever witnessed from The Mountain. By sunset, everything on the south side of The Mountain was a putrid brown. We ate and melted some snow, then crashed in the public shelter.
Early in the night the wind began to HOWL. I was so glad I was in the hut, and not in my Clip Flashlight! The hut was literally shaking, plaster was falling from the ceiling, and it went on and on. Some jacks started stirring and had left by about 1:30 am. REI had left also. Scott and I started moving around 1:30 or 1:45, farted around for a long time pounding water and gearing up, and eventually left Camp Muir at 4:45 am. It was getting light already, and our headlamps never switched on. A sea of clouds was surrounding The Mountain around 8000', and blue skies were overhead. The wind was still SCREAMING! It had not slacked up any.
We met the bailing-out REI crew on the Cleaver. Scott and I only sat down a couple times when I insisted. Since I didn't eat enough before we left and we weren't stopping because of the wind, I was feeling weak. Scott was strong, but cold. I can't count the number of times I paused and crouched low, bracing against the 100 mph gusts. Between 13500' and 14000' we passed a group of three climbers. I was on all fours and using my axe as an ice climbing tool. "Do what you gotta do!" I yelled in passing. Around 14000' we met a group of three coming down, the first to make it up that day. Once we reached the crater I raised my arms in celebration, then quickly headed behind the nearest big rock. It was 9:30. We had made good time even though the wind slowed us up a good bit. The blasting wind was even stronger coming across the crater, so Scott and I huddled for 10-15 minutes, then started down. We took our time in the descent, actually getting a chance to enjoy the views without being worried about getting blown off The Mountain. The group I passed on all fours also made it up. And a great time was had by all !!!
The next day (Thursday) was a rest day, and the weather was perfect. Anyone who didn't summit that day blew their chance. My two friends arrived at Camp Muir that evening, so we planned on summitting Friday morning. However, some clouds were already rolling in...
People started getting up at 11:15 pm. I don't think anyone left the hut, but I'm not positive. Scott and I checked the conditions around 1:30 and it was downright pitiful. REI was just about to leave, but we all knew they weren't going anywhere. Visibility was dangerous, and there were lightning flashes very high and overhead. I checked again at 2:30 and visibility was even worse. I couldn't see the bathroom from the doorway of the shelter. So everyone stayed in their bags, and it didn't get better.
Scott and I had to descend Friday morning because a)we were out of fuel, b)we had to check in with rangers and Becky, and c)we didn't think the weather was going to improve. It didn't. By the time we descended from Muir, ice was building up and it was nasty. I am very sorry that Heather didn't get to summit, but I know she will someday.