Feeding:

Before you can consider feeding the chameleon, remember that how you care for your food items will directly affect the chameleon.

cricket cage

crickets:
Feeding: Remember, whatever the cricket eats, the veiled chameleon ultimately eats. There are different items to feed the crickets. Some suggestions from breeders have been corn meal, monkey biscuits, or just plain old gut loading. Gut loading supposedly adds to the nutritional content, but how do you know how much each cricket is getting, if any at all? I also worry about "over-supplementing" the crickets for the chameleon, since I also powder mine. Personally, I feed my crickets collard greens, kale, mustard greens, romaine lettuce, carrots, and such. Dark, leafy vegetables are rather good for them.
Water: Crickets have a tendency to drown in a standing bowl of water. They offer a gel-like substance called "cricket quencher." It's supposed to be just like water, and keeps the crickets hydrated, as they eat it. Now they offer the cricket quencher with added calcium. This paired off with the gut load would supplement the chameleon ultimately, but once again, how do you know how much is being given? Or if it's too much? I, personally, have a small dish in the cricket cage with water. There are small stones, or gravel from a fish tank on the bottom to prevent drowning. I still lose a few.. but not as much. Don't put a sponge in the water, leaving it soaking, nor a cotton ball. This will harvest germs and such, unless changed constantly!It should still be changed on a regular basis, though.
Housing: I keep my crickets in a "critter carrier" with Aspen shavings for bedding. A neat trick is to keep a toilet paper tube in the tank, and that way when you need crickets, just tap the tube on the side or into a cup and all the crickets will pop out. They'll hide in the tube, because it's dark in there, anyway. Another is to use eggshell cartons. the crickets will hide in the pockets that are flipped over on the bottom of the tank.

Feeding crickets to your veiled chameleon: I usually put a small bit of calcium supplement and a small bit of mineral supplement in a plastic cup and shake them up. Then, I tap the toilet paper tubing on the side of the cup just a bit, until I have enough crickets in the bottom of the cup. Depending on the size of the crickets, is how you determine how many to feed the chameleon.

Juveniles and hatchlings should be fed more often than adults are, and female adults should be given more food and more supplementation than adult males. Hatchlings should be given pinhead crickets at least twice daily. Juveniles should be given slightly larger crickets, and can be introduced to plant matter and superworms, mealworms, etc. Adult veiled chameleons can be given a wide variety of food, including adult sized or smaller crickets, mealworms, superworms, all sorts of plant matter (discussed later), local insects (discussed later), and a few other food items.

Local insects: If you go this route, you really need to know what species of insects are toxic and what aren't in your area. Chameleons can eat moths, spiders, grasshoppers, crickets, etc. Also, beware of pesticides!! Never feed a veiled chameleon anything if there are pesticides being used in your neighborhood. I'm fortunate to live in an area where pesticides aren't really allowed.

Vegetable matter: As the Chameleon reaches full growth, it should be fed more plant matter. I keep a Pothos in the cage, and also tried an experiment with keeping the chameleon on a Ficus tree. They have been known to eat Pothos and Ficus leaves. Currently, I feed my veiled chameleon a mixture of vegetables. He eats:
Romaine lettuce
collard greens
mustard greens
turnip greens
kale
spinach
anything dark and leafy. do NOT feed them iceburg lettuce. There is no nutritional value in it at all!!! I also have been told to offer a small amount of fruit, but Karma has yet to show any interest in the fruit I offer him, and I refuse to offer him any banana, since my monkey skink had a problem with constipation due to too much banana in just one feeding.