Tudor Gown c.1545

Cranach, 1537, Hercules and Omphale (Detail)

Once I had worked out a pattern that worked well for the kirtle I simply had to cut the bodice neckline a little lower (to show the kirtle around the neckline). The only pattern piece left to construct was the lower part of the sleeve. I based my use of a two piece sleeve on the painting to the left. The skirt used the same gored skirt pattern as the kirtle, but this time, instead of four gored panels with a rectangular panel at the centre back I use only two gored panels. The back section of the skirt was a single rectangular panel, with shaping at the hem to create a train.

This was a simple pattern to construct using only three measurements. The first measurement is the length of the turnback along the arm (the red line). Measure from the seam where the turnback will join the upper sleeve down to the point you want it to fold and then up to your bicep where it will be pinned in place. The second measurement is how far you want the sleeve to hang down; mine comes to just below my hip as that was all the width of the fabric would allow.

I interlined the bodice with a single layer of canvas to help keep a smooth line. I decided not to bone the bodice, as there is no evidence of boning in any of the surviving 16th century gowns. I did, however, put boning beside the lacing to keep the edges straight. I lined the bodice and upper part of the sleeves with linen.

My lacing strips were about 3 inches wide and 14 inches long, I made them using the same canvas that I used to interline the bodice. I folded them in half and turned the edges in, so my lacing strips now measured about 1.5 inches by 14 inches. I ran out of time to hand sew eyelets into the lacing strip, so, as it wouldn't be seen, I used machine sewn button holes spaced about 1 inch apart. I placed a single cable tie along each edge of the lacing strip and along the back opening of the gown to ensure the lacing would not cause the edge to pucker.

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