Moving the seam on a modern sleeve pattern

Most modern sleeve patterns will look essentially like the picture to the right, this pattern produces a sleeve with a seam running down the underside of the arm. However most 16th century sleeves have the seam running down the back of the arm similar to the pattern to the left. So how do we get from a modern sleeve to a period sleeve? The process is very simple.

Equipment:

Ruler (optional), pen/pencil, scissors, sleeve pattern, paper or fabric to trace the pattern onto (e.g. newspaper).

Before you start altering things check the fit, you can get a basic idea from measurments or comparing the pattern to (non stretch) clothes you know fit you.

Step 1. make a copy of the sleeve pattern, trace it onto another piece of paper or fabric (remembering to copy all the important markings) and cut it out. If you make a mistake this allows you to go back and start the process from scratch without needing to buy a new pattern.

Step 2. Take your basic pattern and fold it in half lengthwise. Mark this centre line (the crease from folding it in half will do).

Step 3. Unfold the pattern and fold the side seam into the centre this fold is indicated by the red line (right).

Step 4. Cut the pattern into two pieces along the second crease (you may want to rule a line along the crease to make sure it's straight.

Step 5. Tape the two pieces together along the original seam line.

Step 6. Trace onto a new piece of paper straigtening out the wrist line and adding seam allowance along the new seam.

This page is maintained by Elizabeth Walpole

Known in the SCA as Elizabeth Beaumont

Last updated, 4 November 2004