1. Rub rail from Sabre, $156 for 85' including shipping to PA (Tom King, S-30 owner)

2. Blue paint in lockers is Pettit EasyPoxy Bikini Blue (Glen @ Sabre)

3. Teak eyebrows from Sabre $200 plus approx $100 motor freight (Glen @ Sabre) Found second source (Exotic Lumber, Annapolis, MD) would mill two 16 foot pieces for $82.

4. Rebuild Navtec hydraulic backstay adjuster approx $75 at Southern MD Hydraulics in Waldorf, MD (Les Santee)

5. Beckson #414 opening ports cut-out measures approx 4 1/2" x 14 1/2"

6. Furuno Model 1720 Radar service: Furuno, 70 Engerman Ave, Denton, MD 21629 Ph: 410-479-4420 (Info obtained from Furuno at 2002 Annapolis show)

7. Sabre's source for gel-coat: http://www.minicraft.com/ Gel-coat color for bilge is "Mahogany" (Glen @ Sabre)

8. Possible source for new fixed ports and windows: http://www.bomon.com/ (Glen @ Sabre)

9. Aluminum fuel tank source: Aluminum Fabricated Products (AFP) Ph: 800 292 6898 (ask for technical support)

10. Possible source for large windows: www.pompanette.com/bomar click "online catalog" then "Portlight 3000/4000 Extruded" (Glen @ Sabre)

11. Source for Trojan T-105 6 volt Golf Cart Batteries (approx $70 ea.): Battery Warehouse, Forest Drive, Annapolis, MD

12. Datamarine can be reached at: DMI Marine, Inc 18 Commerce Park Rd., Pocasset, Ma 02559. Tel. # 508-564-7491 www.dmimarine.com and e-mail dmifix@dmimarine.com. They are selling parts and repairing all instruments.

13. Sabre now uses GE Silpruf (silicone) to bed deck hardware. Can be ordered online at a cost of approx. $10 per 10.1 ounce cartridge from: http://www.fastenal.com/shoponline/search/Browsing.asp?CatID=3754

14. To keep bilge dry: Use two pumps. The first pump is a low-capacity pump with a check valve and a small diameter hose to discharge the water. This takes care of the water leaked in from rain, stuffing box, etc. The second pump is mounted higher up with the switch higher up. It has NO check valve, is much higher capacity and has a large diameter hose. When the water comes in at a rate that the small pump can't handle, the backup system kicks in without the flow restriction of a check valve.

15. To clean the diesel tank, remove from boat, take to radiator shop for chemical cleaning followed by steam cleaning.

16. To flush the cooling system : Open the block drain, located low & aft, on the starb'd side. Also drain the coolant recovery bottle. If the engine is cool, remove the pressure cap, and insert a garden hose, to flush the system. [never do this when the engine is hot, as the cold water you are introducing may crack the block]

When the water runs clear from the block, close the drain, and continue filling the engine with water. Just before it's full, add some oxolic acid crystals, available at a paint store for bleaching wood. You can also buy "radiator cleaner" from an auto store. Now replace the cap, start the engine, and bring it to operating temp, while the trans is in gear, and running above low idle. NEVER idle an engine for more than 5 minutes, as this is very harmfull.

Let the engine cool, and again open the block drain, and flush with the garden hose, as above. Very dirty cooling systems will require more than one treatment. When the system is clean, add 50/50 mix of antifreeze & water. Be sure to mix it BEFORE it's put into the engine.

Clean out the coolant recovery bottle, and fill 1/2 way to the top with the 50/50 mix.

A refinement is to first remove the factory drain, and install a hose barb & clear hose, led to a bucket or the bilge. Use vice grips to regulate the drain flow. This method avoids the mess of just draining coolant directly from the block. (Joe DeMers - owner - Sound Marine Diesel LLC www.soundmarinediesel.com)

17. Spartan seacocks and handles are available from Spartan Marine (a division of Robinhood Marine Center) at: http://www.spartanmarine.com/ (Glen @ Sabre)

18. Replacement impeller for raw water pump (Westerbeke # 033636) available from Johnson Pump (P/N JSN 09-810B)

19. Sabres have a screen at the bottom of the fuel pickup probe. If you have a Racor or similar fuel filter it is totally unnecessary and should be removed at the first opportunity. (Doug Dangerfield, S-34 MK I owner)

20. A source to get winches re-plated is: FAR-MAC PLATING INC., 1015 Eddie Allen Road - Melbourne, Fl 32901 321-723-1760 Fax: 321-723-7915. Cost for a Lewmar 42ST was $80

21. Source for the Ball & Socket Catch used on cabinet doors etc is West Marine. The catch is made by Perko, # 554DP. (Glen @ Sabre)

22. Compass rebuild: Robert E. White Instruments, Inc, 34 Commercial Wharf, Boston, MA 02110 (617) 742-3045 They rebuilt an SP5 compass in approx. two weeks. The compass had air bubbles. They changed the card, dome, gaskets and etc. for approx. $100.

23. To get water lines purged of air so pressure pump will prime, pump each of the foot pumps until you get steady stream of water, then close the foot pump spigots by twisting the black nozzle to prevent air from backing up in the line. Now turn on the faucet and the electric pump should pick up a prime. (Martin Thomas, S-34 MK II owner)

24. To wax non-skid decks, use Aurora Sure Step non-skid wax.

25. Rubbermaid Part# 2953, Vanity Wastebasket, 10 x 7.04 x 9.954 available at Target will work as a replacement for the galley. (Jeff Fones, S-34 MK I #22)

26. Die cut masking tape for masking around teak handrails available from Judy Nelson, Handrail tape, 6458 E. Marina Dr., Long Beach, CA 90803 (562) 596-0104 at a cost of $3.00 per 12 pack. (Jack Evans, S-36)

27. To purge an airlock from the fresh water cooling system of the Westerbeke 27 remove the thermostat cover, drill and tap it to fit a car radiator bleeder valve. Install the bleeder valve. This puts the bleed point at the highest point in the fresh water loop. Takes approximately one hour to install this worthwhile modification. Jay Heihsel (1983 S-34 MK I)

28. To wax the non-skid portion of the decks, try Turtle Wax "Zip Wash". It cleans but claims to have a sealer in it that seals the surface. After several years of continuous use, it does improve both the look and stain resistance of the deck, and doesn't make it slippery. Ed Berry (S-34 MK I)

29. Rubbermaid model #2805, 21 qt. waste basket is another model that will fit in the galley. Bruce and Diane Heyman (S-30 #46)

30. To rid your hull of the ugly rust stain along the waterline caused by iron oxide in the water give this remedy a try. Go to the hardware store and purchase a product that comes in granular form that is called Iron Out. Mix 3 or 4 tablespoons in a quart of water. Put this mixture in a spray bottle and merely spray it on the stained area. You will actually be able to see the rust stains disappear in a matter of minutes. Just rinse with fresh water and you are done. This also works well on toilet bowls.

31. If you have a clogged thru-hull, and wish to clear it without a haul out try this trick. Close the seacock for this thru-hull and then remove the hose from the seacock. Now temporarily attach a piece of hose to the seacock tailpiece of sufficient length to reach ABOVE the waterline. Support this hose in a vertical position. Now just open the seacock and run a wood dowel down through the hose to clear the seacock of any obstructions. Once cleared, close the seacock, remove the temporary hose and replace it with the original hose. Open the seacock and you are good to go.

32. If your engine raw water pump stops working properly you can perform the following emergency repair and get back to shore. Just remove your galley fresh water pump, an electric bilge pump, a shower sump pump or any other pump onboard and plumb it in between the raw water intake seacock and your engine�s cooling system thereby bypassing the defective pump. This should keep the engine running cool and get you back to port. To make sure this can be accomplished quickly, it pays to do a little advanced planning and have the necessary hose pieces and a means of getting power to the emergency pump at your disposal. A half hour of planning could save you a very expensive tow job.

33. To free up those frozen metal zippers on your boat cushions do not force them or you can ruin the zipper. Instead, put a rag soaked in vinegar on the slider and cover it with a plastic food wrap such as Saran Wrap. After letting it soak for a while the acid in the vinegar will dissolve the corrosion and the zipper will slide freely.

34. When replacing sanitation hoses for the head, dip the end of the hose into a pan of hot (just below boiling) water and it will then slide on to the hose barb much easier.

NOTE: If you have any useful tips please send them to me via email and I will be happy to include them on this page.