Template.jpg
		Right-click on the above link to view or download template.  Link might appear to be dead or not open, but it's because template is BLANK white.  This is intentional. It is just meant to be the exact size needed to print perfectly onto a 4X6 Teslin sheet with the necessary but minimal overlap and get you started without wasting any sheets.  Template is 300 dpi, so be sure to adjust the image size to 300 dpi or it will print much larger than it should.  ID examples can be found using any search engine and entering "ID" or "drivers license".  Image should be converted to Photoshop .psd to make layers available, as that will GREATLY simplify managing all the different aspects of an ID.  With a little fanagaling, a nice looking ID is really quite easy to make.  Also, the top side of the Teslin is the slightly smoother side.  Make sure to print the front of the ID on this side, as the back side isn't as sharp and looks better for text.  Also, the perforations are cut from the top side, so that should help in identifying it if you can't tell. Tips for Photoshop users: -When adding a person's picture, be sure to add some noise by choosing Filter>Noise>Add Noise.  I usually use a 5 or 6 for the number.  Remember to only add noise to the person's picture, not the entire ID.  This makes it look more digitized, since ID pictures are rarely photo-quality. -Mess around with fonts.  If you scan an actual ID, create new layers on top of words and tweak the size and font until the match up.  Most IDs use Helvitica Neue with a size ranging from 6.22 to 7.  Also, don't use black ink, it looks too artificial.  use an off-black or better yet use the color picker to match the original color (if from a scanned ID).  Make each text line a new layer (such as address, name, birthdate).  This will make it possible to go back later and change them just by double clicking them in the layers pallet. -If the ID has a gold hologram or state seal and you wish to duplicate it, forget screen printing it.  It doesn't work and it's hard.  Make a good outline of the hologram seal and have it made into a rubber stamp.  Make the outlines a bit thinner than they actually are, and then buy or order some Pearl-Ex brand #674 Interference Gold powder.  It shows up mostly clear until shined in the light, then it turns gold.  It's VERY similar to what's actually on a real driver's license.  Spread a thin layer on a flat surface, then press the stamp down and apply onto a VERY SLIGHTLY dampened, printed ID.  The seal should come out perfectly.  Be VERY careful sticking into the butterfly pouch and laminator, as the powder isn't glued, it's just sitting there.  Once laminated though, it will be fine.  Oh yeah, and let it dry THOROUGHLY before laminating, or you'll get bubbles. -If you're making a novelty state ID and your state uses a colorful hologram, don't use your state.  As if you needed another excuse.  Use a state with a simpler gold seal, such as Michigan, South Dakota or Texas. -When Ironing, turn off the steam and iron on medium/high (low cotton or Rayon setting).  Cover ID with paper so the iron doesn't stick and iron for about 5-10 second on each side a couple times until the lamination is clear and the ID is stiff.  DON'T OVER IRON!  The ID will get tiny bubbles and it won't look good. Note:  This information is to be used for legal purposes and for novelty IDs only.  Using this information to make fake IDs for illegal purposes is strictly forbidden.  I bear no responsibility for how you use this.  Long story short; you're on your own.  With that said, good luck! ebay//tulip0712//ID