(1) Select Your Puppy & Kitten (2) Training The Baby Dog

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Both kittens and puppies need three meals a day up to 12 weeks of age,

then two meals until they reach full physical size around 6-9 months. From

then on, feed the main meal at night and give a smaller meal in the morning

for cats and active dogs. Dogs and cats prone to obesity and having a

more sedentary life only need one meal a day.

The first few nights can be difficult with a new puppy or kitten. It may

cry and if you give in and go to comfort it, it will expect your company

every night. If you don't want it to sleep on your bed (the bedroom floor

is safer for pups), give the animal its own box to sleep in with a blanket

or old towel. A radio switched on at low volume or a ticking clock 

(supposedly to mimic the mother's heart beat) will make the new feel

more secure when it is alone during the night.

If and when it cries, check to see if all is well, then leave it alone.

You may well have a few sleepless nights, but it is worth the effort.

With adult animals that have been adopted, problems like this rarely

arise. But if the dog is used to sleeping in its former owner's bedroom

or living room and you lock it in the kitchen or basement, you may

have a clawed door and some noisy nights. Let the animal tell you

where it wants to sleep.

Bedrooms should be off limits until the animal has been thoroughly

checked by the veterinarian. All new pets, be they adults or puppies

or kittens, should be taken at once to a veterinarian. It may have fleas,

worms, or other health problems that need to be treated since an unhealthy

pet can be an unwelcome guest. And problems that aren't diagnosed

early could mean more costly treatment later or the death of the pet and

the distress of emotional loss of those in the family who have become

attached to the animal. Vaccinations will be needed too and you should

check with the animal doctor about what you are feeding the animal

and when it needs to come back for routine health checks and 'booster'

vaccinations.

Discuss also with the veterinarian about having  your pet neutered and seriously

consider signing up for basic obedience training when your pup is four months of

age, if it is an adult also.

Cats enjoy scratching posts ,which you can purchase from pet stores. While you 

are there ,get your pet a collar and have an identity tag engraved with your phone 

number or address. Both cats  and dogs should have tags since this is the best 

security if they get lost. The pet store can also provide grooming combs and 

brushes- all pets should be groomed regularly -and harnesses or leashes for cats 

so you can take your cat for a walk. All dogs should have a long walk at least 

twice a day , not only for exercise but so they can relieve themselves. Puppies 

"need out" more often since they are eating and drinking more.

one final tip-if children are around, don't allow them to handle the pet too much,

since this is stressful to a new puppy or kitten. When it is eating, drinking or

sleeping, it should left alone. Its rights should be respected. With proper care

and understanding, and provided you have chosen the right pet for the right

reasons, your life will indeed be enriched.

(2)Training The Baby Bog                      (click here for download the book 58 KB *.doc)

Lesson 1.

SIT

From the very beginning train him to SIT in the correct posture.

He must SIT with confidence with confidence with backline

straight, forelegs apart showing his full width of chest. His head

is tilted backwards in an attitude of keen attention.  His hindquarters

square and straight with tail stretched out flat on the ground.

He most not rest on one haunch but be in a position to get up

with a forward movement in an easy effort.

Shorten his leash and take the pup to a corner without causing him

any nervousness, pat him and get his confidence. With your left

hand held under his chest and with your right hand, gently press

on his hindquarters until he assumes the sitting posture, at the

same time press his chest upwards with the command SIT, in a

firm, clear, and loud voice, but not too loud to scare him; repeat

this practice several times and keep on saying SIT each time.

Everytime he rises, which he will surely do, press him down again

and again repeating the command SIT. He will soon realise that 

SIT is a word which implies a certain action on his part. Use no

other word. Sooner or later he will respond and co-operate, when,

give him a pat and say 'good boy' . Do not bore him or yourself

as ten minutes is sufficient for his first lesson, but repeat the same

procedure at several intervals during the day. Soon he will begin to

enjoy it, and don't forget to give him a pat, a small tit-bit, and praise

him 'good boy' after each lesson.

If you have taken his lesson seriously, in about a week's time, he will

respond to your command fairly well, but it is possible that he will

take no notice more often than obey. Lose no patience or your temper

but repeat the lesson again and again.

Lesson 2.

SIT - STAY

Having succeeded in getting him to SIT correctly in your room on command,

take his future lesson in the courtyard repeating the same procedure until you

are satisfied that he obeys the command SIT each time. This will take about 

another week or so. But do not attempt the next lesson until his first lesson

SIT is perfect. Your next lesson is SIT without the leash. Being satisfied that

he obeys the command gradually move away leaving him in the SIT position,

but facing him and command SIT - STAY if necessary point your finger at him.

Having succeeded in getting him to SIT - STAY leave him at this and move 

out of sight, but under watch. Should he get restless, repeat the command 

and should he move, place him back in the SIT & Stay  position for two

minutes, getting right out of sight. This is one of the requirements of

Obedience Teste. Once he responds and has confidence, repeat the performance

in a moderately crowded street, at first with the leash on and then mastered,

his assured.

Lesson 3. 

COME

Before you start this lesson, repeat one and two and leave him at the sit and

stay position.

Put on his slip collar and leash and with a firm clear voice using his name

command him to come, and if he responds, give him a pat and say 'good boy'.

Repeat this several times and gradually move away from him increasing the

distance each time. Should he not respond, give a slight pull on the leash or

a gentle jerk just enough to be effective. Repeat this lesson at several intervals

during the day with the leash and without, and within a few days he will readily

respond to your command, but never forget to praise him ' good boy'

followed occasionally with a tit-bit just sufficient to make him happy.

Perfect these simple and yet so important lessons before proceeding to the next

step in training. Do not rush him as he has much time ahead. Get him used to 

his name and use it hereafter.

Lesson 4.

DOWN

Down is the correct word to use as more advanced tests required him to 

Down on command. This lesson follows the sit posture and is a natural

one for dogs and so not much effort is needed to get him to down position 

from the Sit.  The dog must have his collar and leash attached.

From the sit position pull on the collar firmly down into the position of 

lying by pressing on his shoulder saying the word down using his name.

This action will result in the dog extending his forelegs until his chest rests

on the ground and his forepaws stretched out in front of him. His hind

quarters must be square but he must not sit askew in the lounging attitude

on one of his haunches or roll on to any side, through he will do this quite

often, and will need frequent corrections.

His body must be perfectly straight, both front legs extended in front 

and his hind legs directly parallel, with his head extended in an 

attitude of expectation. He must be able to stand up in a single upward

movement on command without scrambling (like a cow). Through this

is one of the simplest lessons to teach, it is important to educate the pup

in the correct posture as this is the posture required when later on he is

trained for guard duty. It is comfortable and dogs can be left in this

position for long periods.

Lesson 5.

( I ) HEEL  ( II ) HEEL FREE

By this time you have some control and confidence and so can pass on

to the next lesson. (i) Heel on the leash and (ii) Heel off the leash.

Both are separate lesson and both are of the utmost importance as

they are the basis of all future work.

Obedience tests and Police Trials requirements are that when the leash

is held loosely, the dog must follow on the left side as near as possible

to the knee, when walking, or turning at slow and fast speed, with his

chest more or less in line with your left knee, so that he is always in

constant view--he must not go too forward or leg behind-- similarly,

without a leash. The idea of the left side is to free your right hand to 

defend yourself with a stick or revolver, if need be.

Heel is not so easy to perfect or even achieve in a pup at this tender

age, but the sooner he is trained to this, the better and by the time 

he is about six months of age, he should be perfect.

All pups have a tendency to follow when young, but the sooner you

get him to move freely with collar and chain, the better. He will not 

be able to keep pace with you, so you must keep pace with him.

As he grows, gradually tighten his leash and get him to walk as

close as possible to your left knee. Should he move ahead, which

he will surely do, give him a gentle pull with the word back. 

If necessary stop for a while, and move off again, with the word Heel.

When you are satisfied that he moves freely combine this with sit, and

at the same time 'click' your heels together. In time, he will automatically

sit everytime you halt. Repeat this often- move off with the word Heel

and stop with a 'click', and at the same time command sit. If he is

difficult, give him his Heel lesson in a narrow passage, near a wall, or

cul-desac. If he has responded well, introduce right and left turns, and 

figures of eight. Having perfected this, slowly detach the leash and 

carry out the same command and actions, but make certain that he is

absolutely thorough and obedient in Heel work before you attempt

to take him out in the streets Heel Free, as the risk in running away

and being run over by traffic is great. It is wiser to keep him on the 

leash for his own safety and the public.

Finish his lesson with sit-stay-come-heel using his name on each

occasion. Don't forget his tit-bit, good boy, fondling his head and 

ears--he will love it.

Lesson 6.

HOLD IT - DROP IT - CARRY - FETCH IT

Your pup is now getting on to six months and his permanent

teeth are out, and his gums not sore. You can now begin to

teach him to hold an article, drop it, and carry it on command.

The article should be light such as a glove, handbag, basket or

a small dumbell, but a six-inch strip of wood wrapped around

with rag would be ideal. As the test progress, vary the article.

Get the pup in the sitting position facing you. Open his mouth

gently and insert this between his teeth avoiding his lips and get

him to close his mouth, pressing his jaws together if necessary

and command hold it. He will probably drop it several times,

but you must persevere by replacing it back in his mouth. 

Once he holds it gradually remove your hand further and further

away until he holds it for some time without assistance. Keep your

hand under his mouth as your next command will drop it.

After he has held the article for a minute or so, command him to

drop it holding your hand or hands under his mouth to receive it

and avoid it from dropping on the ground. At first he will not

understand the command and so no response. Gently disengage

the article from his mouth by pressing gently on his lips and at

the same time command his to drop it. Repeat this often without

hurting his lips. Having satisfied yourself that he knows to hold it

and  drop it on command, train him carry. 

Lesson 7.

CARRYING AND RETRIEVING

The teaching of carrying and retrieving is one of the pleasures of

the dog and its success much depends upon correct methods of teaching.

It is a natural instinct for a dog or pup to run after a thrown article and

so, if controlled with firmness it is not a difficult lesson.

A light dumbell is usually the article used but as the pup is still a baby,

a piece of wood of varying weight and size is best to begin with.

Get the pup in the sitting position on your left side and offer him

the article and command hold it. He will be a little confused at 

first, but persist and he will soon learn to identify the meaning of

Hold it,  Drop it, Carry it and Fetch it. It may be necessary at

first to open his mouth and place the article between his teeth 

and close his jaws, commanding hold it. Each time he drops it

repeat the command hold it. If he seizes the article firmly, lead

him off with the word 'carry'  encouraging him to carry as far as 

possible. This must be a daily practice increasing the distance

each day and varying the articles as much as possible, including

those with metal covering. With a little patience he will soon be

perfect.

You can now proceed to retrieving the article. Hold the dog

close by his collar, get him alerted and throw the article about

30 feet showing him the article before you do so. Then release 

him and say fetch it. He will dash for it and once has he carried it,

command fetch it.

Lessom8.

REFUSING FOOD

This one of the most difficult of all lessons to teach a pup, and

yet so very important in dog training, for the one reason that

poisoned food is the stock-trick of the burglar or your good

neighbour. Most burglars throw their poisoned bait from a

position  that they themselves are invisible or after studying

the position leave poisoned food on the ground of exercise,

near his kennel, or where he is usually kennelled. 

It is easy to control a pup when on the leash as when he 

attempts to snif the ground or attempts to pick up food 

matter he can be corrected, but not so when at liberty.

Pups have a tendency to be attracted to anything putrid,

and have a particular liking for human excreta, cow and horse dung.

It is easier to prevent him than have to thrash him after the act.

There are various methods recommended, but not so easy, as

we are dealing with a young pup who is always hungry and ready

to pick up anything tempting that comes his way.

Scatter small pieces of meat, liver, or any food stuff that he enjoys

best about the courtyard, and lead him on a leash to them. 

When he is getting ready to grab, jerk him back firmly and say

no, quick and clear. Sometimes a smack may be necessary on the

nose. Tempting baits in mouse traps laid about has its effect as soon

as he gets his nose near, he receives a smack. Carry out this practice

daily, each time in a different environments, and occasionally giving

him his freedom, but watch carefully.

Feeding at regular hours and in the same place and same dish is a

good practice.

Lesson 9.

THE JUMPING UP HABIT

There is nothing more disgusting and irritating then to have your dog

or  pup jump on friends or visitors. Though they mean well this habit

must be corrected at once and early.

It requires firmness and it is the one lesson where you do not give

tit-bits, and friends or visitors must not be encouraged to feed them.

Every time the pup or dog leaps up, give him a hard smack on his

nose and at the same time command him down. He will soon learn

that jumping brings nothing but a smack.