Madre Tierra

December 23, Vilcabamba, Ecuador

We found Madre Tierra on the outskirts before town. Martin and I went up to check it out while Doreen, Sharon and Jim waited by the road with the bikes. While both our guide books had highly recommended this place - and one considered it a must visit - and another traveller had raved about it, I was still shocked. Martin's reaction was "It's a bit posh isn't it?". Part of me didn't want to see any more, afraid of being more wanting, since I had called trying to make reservations yesterday and was told they were over-booked for Christmas.

We found our way to the reception area, all the way cringing more and more from the beauty and inviting, wonderfully relaxing atmosphere. The travellers sitting around looked relaxed and openly friendly, ready for interesting conversation. I went to the desk and asked if they had any rooms. The polite clerk asked if we had reservations. I said, "I called yesterday...". When he asked again, I said "no". To my surprise, he then listed off all of the cabanas he had available, and then the prices. Expecting to hear unaffordable prices, I was shocked as he listed off cabanas ranging from $8-$13 per person, including what sounded like a wonderful breakfast and dinner. A bit excited, I pulled my walkie-talkie out of my jacket and immediately told Sharon, who was still wearing her helmet and communicator while waiting at the bottom of the hill. We checked into bungalow #16.

Madre Tierra is a wonderful collection of unique and cozy bungalows tastefully set in a very natural and earthy tropical garden on the side of a mountain. Many of the garden terraces have hangout areas with beautiful views of Vilcabamba in the valley below and the surrounding mountains. Often classical music plays from the main lodge where wonderful meals are served. New Age music (currently Enya) plays from the spa, where one may indulge in massages, Jacuzzis, mud packs, facials, manicures, pedicures, Turkish baths, and colonal flora reforestation.

In the pool/bar area there is a series of waterfalls that circulates the pool water. Wafts of wonderfully smelling baked goods can be picked up throughout the main area. This place is one of those resorts that one can arrive and do nothing for a week but relax, read, and get caught up on one's journal. They have horse riding and hiking trails for the restless. There are lots of interesting travellers to talk with.

In the included dinner we had T-bone steaks or egg plant, delicious mash potatoes, vegetables, wonderful made-that-day bread, hummus, and fruit juice. The desert was a chocolate fudge like brownie. While not an exotic or gourmet meal, all of it had a like - your - wholesome - mother - might - make kind of quality. Every night they show a video at 7:30 in the outdoor dining area. Tonight was "Romancing the Stone", which was interesting to see after having just come from Colombia.

December 24, Vilcabamba, Ecuador - {Madre Tierra}

I woke up at 6:30, and got caught up on my journal sitting out on our thatched roof covered patio in front of our cabana that overlooks the valley and surrounding mountains. I had a spectacular view of the clouds as they flowed across an invisible plane set on top of the peaks of the surrounding mountains, changing in shape and size. Sunlight shone on the tips of some of the mountains, highlighting the horizontal stratification layers from their creation. For breakfast we had crepes with black berry jam, home made toasted wheat bread, muesli yogurt fruit salad, and good silty coffee.

Later in the day we walked into the quiet small town and visited several small grocery stores picking up some wine, banana bread and Doritos. After visiting the town, I can see that the drive here from Cuenca or Loja isn't for Vilcabamba, but rather the traveller/resort-like atmosphere of Madre Tierra.

Vilcabamba is a tiny retreat town of 4,000 people known throughout Ecuador for the longevity of it's inhabitants. Many people are said to have lived to be 150 years old here, with longevity attributed to the water supply in the area. However recent studies have shown few locals actually know when they were born as it was never recorded. There is a rapid running river that runs just outside of town that looks clean.

Since it was Christmas eve, the owners passed around a glass of red wine to everyone. There was an evening movie called "Face Off" with John Travolta and Nicholas Cage that was pretty good. This video was obviously taped from a camera in the audience of a movie theater, as we could hear the audience laughing and coughing throughout the movie. Other than a Christmas tree lit up, it was like any other night.

December 25, Vilcabamba, Peru - {Madre Tierra}

Another day in paradise. We hung out in the most relaxing area we had been in since Ocosingo, Mexico. They served a Christmas dinner of turkey with a delicious stuffing. I went off and finally smoked my Cuban Montecristo cigar I had bought in Playa del Carmen in Mexico. I brought out our flask of rum, and sipped a little. While it was a good cigar, it certainly wasn't worth the price. I think Cuban cigars are overrated or at least overpriced. Jim said he had heard that all the good cigar makers fled to Jamaica when Castro took over since their was no more money to be made in Cuba. I don't doubt that......

http://www.roadkill.com/~davet/worldtrip/journals/971211.txt

Note: Some people think Vilcabamba is in Peru - especially Peruvians.