Quito

The capital of Ecuador is arguably the most beautiful city in South America. It's located 2850 metres above sea level and only 22 km south of the equator, giving it a wonderful spring-like climate. Set in a valley flanked by mountains, several snowcapped volcanoes are visible from the city on a clear day. Quito has plenty of colonial architecture, and modern building has been strictly controlled in the old town since 1978, when it was declared a UNESCO cultural-heritage site. The old centre is full of whitewashed houses, red-tiled roofs and colonial churches, with no flashing neon to disrupt the ambience of the past. The northern part of the city is the new town, containing modern offices, embassies, shopping centres and airline offices.

The major sights include the 16th-century Monastery of San Francisco; the 16th-century cathedral; the historic alley of La Ronda, which is the best preserved street in Quito; and El Panecillo, a hill, with fabulous views of the old town, topped by a statue of the Virgin of Quito. There are at least eight decent museums, a number of spectacular colonial churches, several impressive plazas and good market areas at the foot of El Panecillo and west of the post office. The Avenida Amazonas is the showpiece street of modern Quito, and is a good place to stop in a sidewalk cafe and watch life go by.

Otavalo

The small town of Otavalo is famous for its Saturday Mercado de Ponchos, which dates back to pre-Inca times. The market is a colourful affair, and the Otaveleños are very distinctive in their traditional dress. There are three main plazas. Plaza de Ponchos is the main centre for crafts, such as blankets, scarves, ponchos and tapestries. Bargaining is essential.

Avenue of Volcanoes

The long valley south of Quito, leading to Cuenca, is flanked by two parallel mountain ranges containing nine of the country's 10 highest peaks and some of the country's wildest scenery. Half of Ecuador's population lives in this valley, which has rich volcanic soil. The area contains scores of isolated Indian villages where the inhabitants lead lifestyles that haven't changed for centuries. Many of these villages are only accessible on foot. The Panamerican highway runs the length of the valley and there are spectacular views along the road.

Cuenca

Founded by the Spanish in 1557, Cuenca is the third-largest city in Ecuador and one of the prettiest. The old centre has churches dating from the 16th and 17th century, plenty of old buildings, and cobblestone streets. Fifty km north is the Inca fortress of Ingapirca, Ecuador's best preserved pre-colonial ruin.

Oriente Region

This large Region in the lowlands of the Amazon basin has huge areas of rainforest, and attracts visitors interested in ecology, tropical habitats, natural history, indigenous tribes, bird-watching and jungle treks. Avoid any insensitive excursions visiting 'primitive' Indian communities which involve tourists gawking at 'real' Indians. You are not welcome. The main service towns in the region are Macas, Puyo, Tena, Coca and Lago Agrio.

Beaches

Ecuador has warm coastal water year-round. There are decent beaches at Atacames, San Vicente, Bahía de Caráquez, Bahía de Manta, Salinas and Playas.

Galápagos Islands

The Galápagos archipelago is famous for its unique and fearless wildlife, and has become a mecca for natural-history enthusiasts. Here, you can swim with sea lions, float eye-to-eye with penguins and stand next to a blue-footed booby feeding its young. The islands are located in the Pacific Ocean 1000 km east of Ecuador, and comprise 13 main islands and six smaller ones. The landscape is barren and volcanic but has a unique haunting beauty. The islands are renowned for their bird and marine life, which include albatrosses, penguins, boobies, turtles, iguanas, sea lions, whales and dolphins.

A visit to the islands is expensive. The flight from Ecuador and a week cruising the islands will not leave you much change from US$1000; tours are even more expensive. Puerto Ayora is the main town, located on the central island of Santa Cruz.

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