Penfolds Bin 90A Bin 920的酒評

Penfolds的這二支Bin 920與Bin 90A，都是屬於"有錢也很難買到"的好酒，上市價格通常低於Grange一些，但比Grange還要罕見，目前當地價格(如果還買得到)一瓶絕對在澳幣AU$250以上，且通常是有行無市。原因很簡單:這二支酒都只有在1990年生產而已，屬於"特定年份窖藏酒"。

何謂"特定年份窖藏酒"呢? Penfolds除了每年生產頂級的Grange外，在特定的極優年份會另外生產一種限量酒，精選特優的葡萄釀成，品種比例並不固定，每次取的名字都不一樣，例如Bin 60A, Bin 80A, Bin 90A通常使用來自Coonawarra的Cabernet Sauvignon與來自Barossa Vallley的Shiraz調配而成，而Bin 620, Bin 820, Bin 920則只使用來自Coonawarra的葡萄。其目的一則有些實驗性質，因這種特定酒完全不必考慮葡萄品種、比例、來源葡萄園等限制，讓釀酒師可不受拘束地發揮創意；二則有宣示酒廠不斷創新精進的意義；三則是挑選特優年份做出這"限量旗艦酒"，品質通常極好，可引起收藏家的注意，將酒廠躋身至更高等級。過去三十多年來，只有1962, 1966, ,1967, 1980, 1982, 1990三個特優年份曾做過這種"特定年份窖藏"，分別取名為Bin 60A, Bin 620, Bin 7, Bin 80A, Bin 820與Bin 90A, Bin 920，雖然1994年份也有做一支Bin 94A，但那是白酒，不應算在此列。過去三十多年來只做了六個年份，而且就Bin 90A, Bin 920這個名字而言可說是前無古人，後亦無來者，產量又少，通常每款都不到1000箱，你說稀罕不稀罕?

BIN 920全部使用來自Coonawarra的Cabernet Sauvignon 與Shiraz，也是幾乎每十年才做一次，每次風味都有些不同，上一次生產是約十年前的BIN 820。BIN 920與BIN 90A都是1990年份的頂級紅酒，BIN 920不但在Wine Spectator得到92高分，而且獲得澳洲專業葡萄酒雜誌Winestate選為澳洲本世紀最佳年份(1990)的Cabernet類六支世紀珍釀的第二名，是支值得珍藏的好酒!( Cabernet類第一名是1990 Mount Mary, 1990 Bin 707/1990 Bin 920/1990 Wynns John Ridoch並列第二，接下來是1990 Wolf Blass Black Lable與1990 Yarra Yering。)

Bin 90A, Bin 920這二支酒都非常稀有，建議你在某個值得紀念的日子細細品嚐。如果實在好奇想開一瓶來喝喝，請務必通知小弟我前來共襄盛舉！

專家給予Bin 90A, Bin 920的酒評 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 意見來自於: Thomas h163.s85.ts30.hinet.net-163.30.85.163 於 June 16, 1999 at 12:45:33: 回應訊息至: Re: 還有兩瓶!麻煩一下Thomas 發送者是 Thomas 於 June 16, 1999 at 12:42:17: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ***** 1990 Shiraz-Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 920, Penfolds

Wine Spectator : 92分, 1/31/97

A blend of Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Juicy, lively and pointedly dazzling with distinctly mineral-scented currant and blackberry flavors. Less opulent than your typical Shiraz but elegant in structure. Delicious now, but giveuntil 2002 to 2005

***** PENFOLDS 1990 BIN 90A

COONAWARRA CABERNET BAROSSA VALLEY SHIRAZ

Grape Varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon (68%) and Shiraz (32%).

Vineyards: Coonawarra and the Penfolds Koonunga Hill Vineyard in the Barossa Valley, South Australia.

Oak Maturation: The wine was matured in new American oak barrels for 20 months

Wine Analysis: Alc/Vol 13.5%

Acidity: 7.2 grams per litre

pH: 3.38

Winemaker John Duval's Comments:

Bin 90A has an attractive, brick-red colour with great depth of hues. The wine has a fantastic, opulent bouquet. Rich berry fruit showing blackcurrent and mint varietal characters and integrated oak have produced a bouquet of great complexity and intensity, belying its age. In essence a classic bouquet.

The full bodied palate has great richness and complexity showing perfect harmony and balance between fruit and oak, resulting in a wine which is deceptively powerful. It features lush berry fruit and mint character with immense concentration and pronounced but balanced tannins, finishing with great length.

This is a classic Penfolds red. The flavours are rich and complex. The harmony and balance is outstanding and the weight and structure all it should be to age for the long-term. Bin 90A is a long way from revealling its full potential and will develop superby over the next 20 to 30 years with correct cellaring.