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Kinkajou
(Potos flavus)
Interview with Dustyann Schoening, and Denise Crawford
Positives of Kinkajous as pets?
DS: There are many positives with having a Kinkajou as a pet. They
are friendly, clean, happy little animals. They are also very quiet and
are capable of becoming quite the little members of your family. They
are smart, and are very quick learners, and they also provide quite a
bit of enjoyment. And if you don't mind cuddling with a soft, warm little
creature, they can be quite the little bed warmer too!
DC: Kinkajous are very loving, playful and intelligent animals.
When hand-raised from very young, they are very social and enjoy being
handled and cuddled. They are extremely playful and quite amusing. I would
have to say that their personalities are individual and rival that of
dogs. Although classified as nocturnal, they do learn to adjust to your
individual schedule, spending several hours a day playing if you are home,
and napping on and off throughout the night.
Negatives of Kinkajous as pets?
DS: I truly cannot think of any reason for an animal lover to not
own one. Unless of course you live in California or something where they
are against the law. Claws and bathroom habits can be a problem, but are
easily solved. They can be messy, but their positives generally cancel
out any negatives.
DC: My Kinkajous have free run of my home during the day when I
am home, but they are caged at night while we sleep. Since they become
quite active at night, they require a good deal of room to play. They
are very rambunctious and love to climb, hang and swing from ropes or
whatever is available. Thus, any cage you may buy or build should be several
feet high and several feet wide. Due to their exuberant personalities
and activity levels, they can get quite noisy when they romp at night.
Because of the need for a lot of space to house them and the noise level,
I do not recommend them as pets for apartment dwellers. They also tend
to get a bit messy with their food and under-cage mats and some type of
cleanable wall protection is recommended.
My Kinkajous have never intentionally broken anything
in my home, but they have long tails, which are used for hanging and balance
and tend to knock things off of shelves accidentally. Anything left in
the open is fair game. Like any child, their toilet habits are where ever
and when ever necessary at first, but as they mature, they return to their
cage or to whatever place you train them to while out. Claws can be a
problem, especially around small children, but this too is manageable.
The positives of these wonderful animals far out-weigh the negatives provided
you enter into ownership knowing what you are getting into and being prepared
completely.
Anecdotes/stories about your Kinkajou pet?
DS: I am afraid I have WAY too many anecdotes about them to mention.
I wouldn't want to bore everyone to death! But I can tell you that due
to a MAJOR life style change early this year, I was forced to relocate
from my home in Oklahoma. The kinkajous are one of the "smaller" animals
that I was able to bring with me. They travel very well. They have been
"on the road" with me for the past 10 months, and they have seemed to
enjoy every minute of it. While on the road, they are in an RV, and they
are kept in the very LARGE pet kennels (for safety). We have one kink
per kennel, each with food and water for the trip, and a water bottle
on the outside of their kennels, in case their water spills. Inside each
kennel, they also have a hiding box for security.
One thing that seems to be characteristic of all of the
kinkajous I have encountered is that they are curious to see what is in
YOUR mouth. It is quite an odd thing to have your little kinkajou pry
your mouth open to see whats in there! Yoki will stick her whole head
inside your mouth, and if she still isn't satisfied with what she finds,
she has been known to stick her hand in and see if she can find any "goodies".
Do they have scent glands or an offensive smell?
DS: As far as my personal experiences go, I think they have a very
fresh smell. I often compare their odor to Vitamin E. It is very pleasant.
DC: Yes, both male and female have scent glands around their mouths
and the males have a scent gland in the middle of their chests. They tend
to rub these on you, furniture, toys and each other quite often. It has
no odor detectable to my nose, which is very sensitive, and does not stain
or discolor. In other words, there are no ill effects caused by the scent
glands. Provided they have adequate housing space, which is cleaned daily,
the kinkajous themselves have no offensive odor and are very clean animals.
Their stools are also inoffensive unless allowed to accumulate.
What is their average lifespan?
DS: I believe 15 years is the average.
DC: As I have not experienced a 'life span' yet, I cannot say authoritatively.
However, I do have friends with 10 year olds and literature I have read
on web searches states approximately 15 years. On the other hand, there
are zoos with kinkajous as old as 30 years and some people claim to have
pets as old as 33 years. I would say it all depends on the environment
they are raised in and how they are cared for.
Do they enjoy interaction?
DS: Very much so. They love to play and they also enjoy snuggling
up and cuddling with you.
DC: Yes, very much so. The more love they get, the more love they
give. They love to cuddle and have their backs scratched while you watch
TV or sit at the computer. They make great cuddlers in bed too. It is
a very good idea at an early age to introduce them to as many people as
possible, as often as possible to promote good socialization. They make
wonderful ambassadors of the animal kingdom for educators, children's
hospitals, senior citizens and nursing homes, and just about anywhere
interaction with animals is welcomed.
What is their general personality, disposition, and
attitude?
DS: I have 4 Kinkajous. Two of them are a pair which I purchased
as adults 4 years ago, and two of them are their offspring. A little girl
2 1/2 years old, and a boy 1 ½ years old. The adults were NOT pets when
I purchased them, but within a month, they were as calm and gentle as
if they had been hand raised. The youngsters have been handled since their
eyes were opened, but they are both mother raised. I took them from their
mom each day from the time their eyes opened for about 3 hours and then
I would put them back. They have always been sweet and love to be in on
everything. All 4 of them are wonderful animals with very beautiful attitudes.
DC: Kinkajous are like perpetual 4 year olds. They are bubbly and
playful and generally have a sunny disposition. They understand "No" and
respond to being corrected. They can be sneaky and seem to devise little
games to play with you. One of our favorites is Hide-and-Seek. I have
my kinkajous trained to collars with small bells. They will hide from
me until I find them, at which point they jump out and surprise me, or
I give up and tell them to ring their bell so I can find them.
If unaccustomed to being awakened during the day or of
having their heads rubbed and scratched, they can be a bit grumpy and
obnoxious. These are two traits I work out of my babies from the very
beginning. Repetition of the actions, which annoy them, desensitizes the
babies to those actions. Otherwise, a nip or even a serious bite can be
expected. It is instinct, not malice, which causes this reaction in Kinkajous.
Are they sweet and petable, or mischievious and playful?
DS: Oh, they are both. When they are in the "cuddling mode" they
like to get right next to me and just hang out. They eventually end up
falling asleep on me. They love to get right under my neck by the pillow
and sleep. BUT they are also VERY playful in the evening. They love to
play and even play a sort of "kinkajou tag". They love to investigate
and they are very entertaining.
DC: Well, since they are members of the raccoon family, you can
well imagine their potential for mischief and play. But on the other hand,
they also love to cuddle up and watch TV and be rubbed and scratched.
My Kinkajous also love to give love. They will hold my face in both hands
and give kisses. They are wonderful when the day is just not going well.
Kinkajous have long fingers and semi-opposable thumbs.
They are very capable of opening cabinets, both with and without handles
and they like to team up and open refrigerator doors. They are also great
escape artists, which requires very strong and when possible, complex,
locks on cages and windows. Tragedy can strike when least expected. They
are very observant and can figure out how to undo the precautions you
have taken to protect them. Think of them as toddlers and childproof your
house accordingly. My male has even figured out how to open pill bottles!
How destructive are they for an average household?
DS: Mine have free range in the house, and they have never broken
anything yet. The worst they do is try to get into food, but they do not
tear anything up.
DC: Let me just say that I keep a cluttered house and my Kinkajous
have not destroyed anything maliciously. I've had knick-knack shelves,
kitchen cabinets and fireplace mantels cleared by swinging tails and clumsy
feet, but nothing broken intentionally.
Do they climb or tear up furniture?
DS: Oh yes they climb everything, but not in a destructive fashion.
No, they do not tear up furniture.
DC: Kinkajous can climb vertical doorframes, entertainment centers
and just about anything else they can get a toehold or grasp on. The higher,
the better! Although they do have strong claws, they do not use them on
furniture as a cat would.
Are there any problems associated with their claws?
DS: NO! If you have a kinkajou and you handle it, my experience
is that they never use their claws ON YOU. When Yoki and Kiki were babies,
and they were learning about humans, we would rub their little feet if
they dug their claws in, and they quickly learned that it wasn't necessary
to use their claws on people. I PERSONALLY believe that if the claws or
teeth of an animal is a problem for you, then you should buy a stuffed
animal at a toy store, and play with it. Animals were born with teeth
and claws for a REASON and they should NOT be removed, unless there is
something medically wrong. For those who feel they must remove body parts
that an animal was born with, I think if said person is willing to subject
themselves to the same fate FIRST, and they like being toothless or nail-less,
then it would probably be okay to remove them from your pet too. Kinkajous
can be taught to not use their claws on people, and they end up really
enjoying a nice foot massage. For those who use the excuse that it is
for "public safety" because they use their animals in Educational ways,
again, a stuffed animal would be a much nicer way to teach about the animal.
DC: Claws are a touchy subject, open to much debate. If kept clipped
regularly, they are manageable depending on your own level of tolerance.
On the other hand, a good vet can de-claw your Kinkajou with no adverse
effect on the animal. Usually within 24 hours of being declawed, they
are running and climbing again, with little or no pain. According to an
orthopedic surgeon who recently performed a de-claw procedure on a kinkajou,
the claws are semi-retractable and unlike those of cats, the joint does
not have to be removed, only the nail. Their fingers and toes are the
same length and shape as before surgery, except that the claws are gone.
Declawing also does not affect the Kinkajou's ability to hold its food
or climb. I personally have had all 3 of my Kinks declawed. The level
of play and affection we now enjoy is 10-fold that it was before, if that
can be imagined as possible, and without the accidental scratches on faces
and arms. For those who would own a kinkajou for educational reasons,
there are also legal ramifications which can be incurred in these times
of "nuisance suits" should someone be accidentally scratched by their
Kinkajou's claws.
I believe that whether a Kinkajou owner chooses to have
their pet declawed or not is a very personal decision, based on careful
thought and research and the needs of the family. No one outside the household
should condemn anyone else's choice.
How messy are their droppings?
DS: Mine are all trained to a litter box, so they are not messy
at all. But I do not use kitty litter, I use dirt, so the whole tray needs
to be changed daily. They don't seem to like the kitty litter.
DC: Kinkajous tend to go to one place as they mature, be that place
a toilet, bathtub, trashcan or their cage. They will go to some place
high, hang their tushy over the edge, and let it fly. Shoulders work well
in a pinch too! They can be nondiscriminatory! I have never known a Kink
to be litter trained, but I personally have taught babies to use a toilet
during the 3 to 10 week age period when they are being bottle-fed by me.
Their new owners have continued to work with them and some have attained
success. Their Kinkajous will use the toilet when the urge arises. Speaking
from my own experience, my Kinks use their cage and my adults will go
once or twice at night and the youngster will go at night and again mid-afternoon
after a bottle. The stools have no offensive odor and I clean their mess
daily.
Can they be litter box trained?
DS: Yes. When I got the breeder pair (Yoda and Yoshi), they were
NOT trained to a box, but within a month, they figured out where they
were supposed to go. Yoki and Kiki learned by watching the parents.
DC: I do not know, as I have never tried it.
Can they be trained?
DS: "Trained" can mean a number of things. Mine all know their
names, and come when called, and they are all able to wear a little harness
on a lead so when I take them out they stay close. And when we tell them
"NO", they stop whatever it is that they are doing wrong, or are thinking
about getting into. (i.e. the Christmas tree)
DC: Kinkajous are very intelligent and capable of learning. I know
of them being trained to wave at a crowd and sit upright to eat. My Kinkajous
each respond to their names, respond to "no" when into something or doing
something unacceptable and respond to praise and positive reinforcement.
They each wear collars and when taken outside the home, they wear a harness
and lead to keep them safe and close at hand. These items are introduced
at a young age and are readily accepted. Every couple of days I will remove
their collars for them to air their necks and groom. My male will seek
his collar out and carry it around until I put it back on him. I guess
it can be said that yes, they are trainable when you consider litter box
training and toilet training
How are they with other pets, larger and smaller?
DS: So far, so good. They have had to live in the same house with
a Palm Civet, Coati, Cacomistle, Vervet Monkey, Ringtailed Lemur, and
2 Tiger cubs (which stayed in the house until they were well over 250
pounds each.) At the same time, they lived with 100 assorted bird (canaries
to cockatoos in size.) Their litter box was in the bird room, and they
never bothered the birds. They like to play with Cecil, the Palm Civet,
and have even been known to share a meal or two with him. Right now they
live with Corky (the coati) and they all get along great! They even sleep
together.
DC: I have a large variety of pets, including 7 poodles, 4 ferrets
and 2 Bushbabies. The Kinkajous run around the house with the dogs and
the Bushbabies have helped raise them. My male Kink actually gets into
the cage with my bushbabies and plays with them. I also know from friends
that their kinkajous love to play with their cats.
What size cage do they need?
DS: Mine are not in cages, they live in the house.
DC: If the kinkajous are going to have limited time out of their
cage for play and exercise, the larger the better. I would say that the
longer time they spend caged, the larger the cage should be. These are
very energetic and active animals. They need room to climb and play. They
also need stimulation, which they can get from various toys and activities.
Kinkajous also like to feel secure when they sleep, so they enjoy a warm
sleeping bag or a ferret cube to snuggle up in. A large nesting box with
blankets or polar fleece can also be used.
What do you feed them?
DS: They eat Monkey Biscuits, sometimes they are soaked in Apple
or Cranberry juice (just for flavor). They also get quite a variety of
fruits and veggies, with bananas being their favorite, but they also enjoy
apples, carrots, grapes, melons, kiwi, papaya, mangoes and sweet potatoes
or yams.. For treats sometimes they eat nuts. And they LOVE HONEY! I don't
know what they would do if we ever ran out of the stuff! And of course
they Do enjoy an occasional Potato Chip or Dorito. They also get an occasional
blueberry muffin or cinnamon roll, but I really try to limit their "junk
food" intake.
DC: Kinkajous are not a cheap pet to feed. They require a large
variety of fresh fruits and vegetables, monkey biscuits, fruit nectars
and fresh water. Their favorite by far is bananas, but they also eat watermelon,
honeydew, cantaloupe, papaya, mango, kiwi fruit, pineapple, berries of
all types, grapes, nectarines, peaches, plums, apples, pears, carrots,
green beans, corn (small amounts), sweet potatoes, eggplant, squash (yellow
& zucchini) and peas. I pretty much try them on whatever fresh fruit is
in season at the time. They love it all. As a treat they LOVE honey, which
I put on whole wheat bread for them and occasionally peanut butter on
a spoon. For protein, in addition to the monkey biscuits, I give them
boiled egg and sometimes boiled chicken. As an additional source of calcium
they get yogurt two to three times a week. Kinkajous are also wicked moochers
and will try and steal whatever you happen to be eating. I know for a
fact that iced tea will make them bounce off of the walls!
What vaccinations/vet care do they require?
DS: That may depend on where you live. All states and have different
requirements. I would hate to give out the wrong info and mislead someone.
Check with YOUR vet. (Also, look in Walkers Books) I really hate to give
out medical advice, especially right now with all of the controversy going
on about NON professionals giving out Veterinary advice.
DC: That too is a controversial subject. So little is known about
Kinkajous that it has been trial and error over the years. The knowledge
base is growing slowly but surely. I know that some states require rabies,
but that depends on the state. My vet has learned that Distemper is fatal
for Kinkajous, so I have mine vaccinated. There have been no adverse affects
to date. One of the first things anyone should do before obtaining a Kinkajou,
and this is true for any exotic pet is to research and find a veterinarian
that is knowledgeable and preferably experienced with the animals. Then
speak with them and discuss the species and find out their preferences
for care. If you are not comfortable with them, keeping searching until
you find a vet with whom you are. Never wait until you have an emergency
to try and find someone to care for your pet.
At what age would it be best to get one?
DS: I would say at any age, but of course the older the animal,
the more work you will have in gaining its trust.
DC: I bottle-feed my babies until they are 10 weeks old and still
on one bottle a day, in addition to eating a variety of fruits. They then
go to their new homes. Kinkajous are very social animals, so even non
bottle- fed babies and older Kinks can be integrated into a household
very well. The younger, the better, but older kinkajous just require extra
time and love. Be aware that an older Kinkajou may never be cuddly and
huggable if not socialized at a young age, yet may have a sweet disposition
and make a wonderful pet. I recommend very strongly that anyone wishing
to obtain a Kinkajou should research the breeder as much as they research
a veterinarian and know the history and origin of the animal before buying.
Other Consideration for owners of Kinkajous?
DS: Remember that they are nocturnal animals, and if they are going
to be a house pet, you need to be sure you are ready for the pitter patter
of little kinkajou feet all night long. Also, if they are going to live
outside, you will need to provide heat in most places. They are a tropical
animal. And they normally live in TREES, way up high, so trees would be
a welcomed addition to any outdoor habitat. We let our climb trees quite
often. And they also appreciate a box to sleep in, and also to give birth
in, if you are breeding them.
DC: Know the animal before you buy and never buy on a whim, or
because it is "cute". Kinkajous can live a very long time and should be
a life-long commitment. Make sure you are ready for it's arrival, just
as you would a new baby. It will be dependent on you and Kinkajous require
a lot. These are not animals to be put in a cage and admired as you pass
through the room
What kind of person should own these animals?
DS: Someone who has enough time on their hands to spend QUALITY
time with them everyday. They like to be talked to, and played with and
held, and they get a bit offended if they are ignored. And someone who
has done some research about them. I would hate to think someone would
purchase one without learning as much as possible about them first.
DC: Someone that is stable and has a great deal of time and love
to share with a kinkajou. They must have a good sense of humor, strong
shoulders for riding upon and a warm heart and cozy lap for cuddling.
Someone that shuffles their feet while walking is nice, but not an absolute
must, as your new friend will follow you everywhere and be at your feet
always. Oh, and above all, patience is a must. A kinkajou will want to
share in and help you with everything you do. |
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