My experience has been limited (gracias a Dios) to the one in Chelem, where the kids occasionally and quite literally drag us to partake in fun and games and rides too.
Before I launch into the details, try to picture the fair. It's the plaza in Chelem, a half-sand, half-concrete square in the middle of the 'town'. On it, around it and in the middle of it are tarps and ropes covering stands, games, and 'restaurants'. These are all lit up thanks to extensive cables and wires that emerge from tarantula-like knots on the side of the electricity poles and switch boxes and spread out in all directions, snaking across the ground, over your head wrapped around the poles holding up the tarps etc. The restaurants are gas powered and therefore propane gas tanks are always close by, a couple of feet away from the stoves and grills to be exact. There are also rides; contraptions sold off by bankrupt U.S. fairs and theme parks in 1937, or so it would seem. They are all rusted, dented and scratched metal rides; little bashed up Kenworth trucks for the niños that wiggle precariously around a crooked track; or perhaps a 'ferris' wheel that is half a story high, and bears more of a resemblance to a collection of chicken coops strapped to a large vertical wheel that struggles to go round and round thanks to a 289 V-8 puffing away very close by.
All this is made more pleasant by the distorted (is there any other way to put some ambience in a public place in Mexico?) music (endless dance remixes) trying to boom from large black speakers everywhere and the growing collection of half-eaten corn cobs, paper, bottles and other garbage liberally sprinkled about.
That's the general atmosphere. If you want details, here are a few:
Games
and Attractions
There
are darts and balloons, the former being so dull (as in pointless - ie:
unsharpened) and attached to some ancient plastic or prehistoric ostrich
feathers that they are uncontrollable upon throwing; the latter so softly
inflated that they would never pop no matter what you threw at them. As
for the prizes, they only offer one kind of prize, no matter how many balloons
you don't pop: posters! That's right, posters. But not the glossy kind
you'd see in a shop somewhere in a mall; no, these are special and unicos
posters. Sun-bleached (remember no one ever wins these things) photographs
or color copies glued onto cheap plywood and covered in plastic shrink
wrap to give it that extra touch of glossy class. And the subjects of the
photographs? There's the stuff that is current and popular such as multiple
poses of Leonardo DiCaprio and maybe a Mexican singer or sopa opera star;
and there are the traditional favourites or standards, always guaranteed
to please. These range from the classic Virgen de Guadalupe or the
little blond girl with the horse to Pamela Anderson and her bared assets.
These are all side by side, by the way, and you can actually observe the
Virgen
kind of frowning upon Pamela's breasts if you get the right light and angle.
Roulette
A more
recent addition; a little plastic roulette wheel from one of those game
boxes and a hand made betting board are sure to leave you centavo-less
in exchange for a moment of excitement and Las Vegas-style glamour.
Loteria
Almost
a thing of the past. The traditional beach house kids game taken to the
next level a la roulette. Place your coins on the figurita you think
will show up on one of three polygons that the master of ceremonies shakes
around in a battered box. When they show up, you get paid. If not, it's
bye bye pesos.
The
Shooting Gallery
You don't
win a damn thing and just shoot little lead pellets at the little scratched
up metal animalitos and the funny and formerly hairy gorrilla or
hula-clad puppets that dance. Keep an eye on the little ones here
since the pellets rebound a lot and tend to hit passers-by. When you do
manage to hit the button that activates the formerly hairy gorrilla, you
are treated to a blaring and distorted musical interlude accompanied by
hyperactive jiggling on the part of the gorrilla. When the person running
the 'arcade' tires of the music, he pulls one of several dangling cables
to shut the monkey down.
Futobolitos
Every
fair has gotta have these - dozens of swaybacked football-soccer tables,
with little plastic balls very tired and unsavoury looking plastic players
to twirl around. These tables cost around 2 pesos a game (5 balls) and
provide probably the only source of what could be called amusement. The
early teen set really enjoys this area, and the locals that run the games
always put on appropriate music (Molotov, Control Machete - anything where
rapping insultos is included) a todo volumen to make the
place that much more cool.
All in all, the feria is truly a horrendous non-event but very typical of the temporada and a must-do experience, unless you're a visiting health inspector from some civilized nation in which case you will probably have to be carted away. It is also a helpful reminder to keep us all ubicados, so that we don't become blinded by the Hondas, Audis, Mercedes, Sams, Fridays, McDonalds and Burger Kings and somehow become confused about our national status, the feria de Chelem keeps us firmly rooted in the third world.