'Huaches' in Merida

In addition to the ever-increasing population of foreigners, Merida is also home to a growing and not always welcome colony of people originally from Mexico City, also called 'el D.F.', which, for uninitiated, are the initials of the Distrito Federal or Federal District, from where the entire country is run politically and economically. If you are anyone in Mexico and haven't made it in the capital city, you're not really anyone just yet. After you've been recognized in Mexico as being good at what you do, whether it's art, writing, business or politics, then and only then can you get the hell out of the crowded rat race to live elsewhere in realitive peace and quiet while still enjoying your reputation and quiet possibly, your profession.

Chilangos/Huaches miss the culture but don't miss the crowds. Click on the photo to enlarge.

 
 

The great majority of Yucatecans, although friendly and hospitable when you come to visit (but not to stay) in their peaceful refuge, roll up the welcome mat pretty darn quick when the subject of 'los huaches' comes up. A 'huach' is a person that comes from somewhere else north of Campeche and uses a different intonation when speaking the language, pronounces the letter x like an 'x' (and not like an 'sh' the way it should be); the person could be from Toluca, Queretaro, Estado de Mexico, or even Jalisco and Puebla (much to the disgust of the poblanos), they're all 'huaches' with the exception of those from Monterrey, Nuevo Leon, who are easily distinguishable by the sing-song way they speak and their reputation for experiencing actual physical discomfort upon extracting their wallet.

From a linguistic standpoint, it is probably worthwhile mentioning one theory regarding the origins of the term 'huach'. It is said that the Mayans, who possessed a wonderfully onomatopaeic language, noticed that those indigenous people who came from the 'north' for reasons of commerce and perhaps one or two military incursions into the peninsula, wore sandals on their feet that made a unique slapping sound; kind of like a 'huach huach huach' ; hence the sound was identified with those kinds of people and they were subsequently given a generic name: huach. Nowadays, of course the spanish-ization of the mayan language has been going on for over a century and huach itself is the spanish equivalent of the original Mayan 'wach' which for some strange and incomprehensible reason is dificult to pronounce to the greater nahuatl majority that write the history of the country from small desks located in windowless cubicles in the heart of Mexico City. The term 'wach' appears in the Cordemex Maya-Spanish Dictionary on page 905 as follows: "WACH : azteca, mexicano" There is more, if you're interested read the spanish version of this page.

Modern Art in Mexico (City of course) - Click on the logo to hop over and have a look at the museum

Nowadays, in parties and where Yucatecans meet socially, in guarded voices and after ensuring no huaches are present, the topic of conversation invariably gets around to the subject of the continuing influx of huaches to Merida, and the resulting changes (negative of course) that this immigration is causing. Crime is on the rise, property and real estate prices are sky-high; even the food, that last bastion of yucatecan culture, is being replaced by more and more 'comida huach'. Tacos al pastor, flautas, gringas, huaraches and sopes are threatening the taste buds of the young generations of Meridians, who slowly but surely are begining to prefer these new options over the more traditional salbutes, panuchos and caldos de pavo for their pre-or post-disco midnight snacks.

The attitudes of the huaches are criticized to no end, since, according to modern-day folklore, they arrive in Merida full of self-importance and despotism as if they were the new conquistadores and the people who live here were a bunch of lazy, ignorant indians, which is the worst sort of offense for Yucatecans, since they are very conscious of their roots and the paleness of their skin. The huaches arrive with or without money and establish themselves everywhere; they open stores, restaurants, small bars, bring in strange food; form clubs, associations and schools for the little huaches; in effect changing that nostalgic provincial feeling that Merida had in the 'good old days'.

Much of this criticism is well deserved as the former citizens of the nations' capital city act as arrogantly as those in other lands; the Argentinos from Buenos Aires and the Parisians are hated as much as any huach in the provincial backwaters of their respective countries.

Huaches in Merida are classifiable in four main groups or types, and although the huaches you know may exhibit characteristics from any one or more of these groups, you will probably recognize at least one or more from these examples. One interesting combination of characteristics is the so-called Yuca-Huach; that being a Yucatecan who spent most of his childhood in Mexico City and has since returned to live once again in Merida, with a face that could not be anything but Yucatecan, but with an arrogance and superiority complex that only someone who has lived in el D.F. could display. There is also the Pocho, who is a Yucatecan who has gone to live in the U.S. and has gone from illegal strawberry picker to legitimate U.S. citizen and returns to his homeland flashing dollars, speaking Spinglish (he has forgotten much of his spanish, he proclaims almost proudly, thereby ensuring his fragile ego that he is practically a gringo himself) and driving a huge boat of a car that sports real California license plates (as opposed to the old expired ones that some locals like to put on their battered Caribes instead of YucMex plates so they can pretend to be Pochos). The whole Pocho mentality and lifestyle could easily be the subject of an article in itself, so at this point I will return to the four main categories of huaches that come to Merida.
 

The Preppy Huach
This is the one that arrives on the Mayan Worlds doorstep money in hand, whether it was inherited, borrowed only to never be returned or is on the receiving end of a continuous supply of cash from an un known and mysterious source. He can also appear as maquiladora managers, newly appointed bank executives to over see a new branch of office of a large company back in the city, since noone back at head office (in Mexico City, obviously) would trust any locals to oversee the firms operations in Merida. He is usually accompanied by the almost blond, pretty wife and two or three children who are also almost gringo looking who will study in Merida's best and most prestigious (according to other huaches already established here) schools, and if he is not already on a company payroll, he will almost always establ;ish some sort of commercial undertaking for a market that he has clearly defined and that exists in his native Mexico City, but that is as yet non-existant in Merida. This, however, doesn't concern him and he lives more or less happily in the better areas of the city, always buying the best house around or if none is available, building one to his own specifications. Driving a late model luxury car and always impeccably dressed, his attitude can vary from a kind of elegant 'new conquistador' to total despotism. At first glance, he is charming and almost excessively friendly - to the point of discomfort - but as soon as he finds out who you are or rather, aren't, he will push you aside to continue his eternal upward social struggle. The Preppy Huach group is tolerated by the locals, especially those in the middle class, who always feel a certain attraction towards the money and social status that a big house or car imply. If, however, this middle class does not take kindly to the new arrival, out come the scissors and the Yucatecans will cut him (or her) to shreds at the first opportunity.

The Broke or Economically Challenged Huach
This one has had a tough time in the big city and so has come to try hs luck in a less hostile and definitely cheaper environment. Usually his nahuatl ancestry is evident in his appearance and brings with him an unruly batch of offspring also known as escuincles which he proceeds to enroll in a public or perhaps a not-so-expensive private school, and proceeds to earn a living working in a autobody shop, restaurant, or store. If he does start a business of his own, it is usually a taqueria in his garage or perhaps a little stall that sells gum and sodas, but in general doesn't aspire to greater commercial achievement. This group does not mix well with the yucatecan middle class population, as they have a very clear idea of the social class structure and this type of person does not fit in; as a result, the members of this particular classification socialize with others of their kind and complain somewhat that the locals are very closed-minded and won't accept them in their social circles.

The Bitter Huach
He had nothing back in the D.F., but realized that while the few pesos he had managed to save were almost worthless in the capital city, in the formerly white city they would give him some sort of financial base from which to start over, since there is no comparison with the cost of living in Mexico City with that of Merida. Physically, he may resemble either one of the two previous groups, since this classification is more psychological, rather than genetic. In general, he moves into the best residential area his limited means permit, complaining about the stubborn Yucatecans that didn't want to sell him this or that house, or that they tried to stop him from moving into the area. Upon taking posession of his new home, he complains about what a ridiculous name that particular part of town has and that the woodwork/aluminum or concrete workmanship is completely inferior to what he had in Mexico City. This is an important point. It is the most marked characteristic of the people in this classification: they spend their lives bitterly whining to anyone within earshot, be they fellow huaches, incredulous Yucatecans, or foreigners, that their house/friends/school/public services/streets/stores/discos/restaurants or what have you, were of much better quality back in Mexico City and that everything here is crap. Almost always, and according to them of course, they were important people back in the city, knew so and so, earned so much, ate at such and such restaurant, and generally were beings so superior that all those present during such an onslaught of verbal diarrhea should feel honored to know them. This group of disillusioned misfits has created 95% of the bad reputation that the huaches have not only in Merida, but anywhere else in the country where they have settled.

The Thankful Huach
As in all social groups, there are people who are sincere, friendly and aware of their reality. Although it is small, there is a group of former capital city residents who I call the Thankful Huaches living in Merida. It is made up of individuals and families who are generally well-off; that is to say they have money, education, have travelled extensively throughout Mexico and some parts of the globe and are very conscious of the world that surrounds them. Physically they look like the people that appear in commercials on Mexican television; attractive people that although they live in the better residential areas of Merida do not feel that urge to prove their importance with ostentatious automobiles and unnecessary luxuries. They come to Merida because they have decided, after careful analysis and travel to different areas, that Merida offers the quality of living that they want; that the security, traditions, the supply and quality of services and the laid-back, relaxed pace is what they are looking for in a place to live and raise their kids. They are constantly and sincerely commenting on how nice the city is, how good the food is, how pleasant it is to live here and one can almost always perceive a sense of shame at some of the more negative comments from their Mexico City compatriots in the previously mentioned groups. The persons in this classification almost always make a favorable impression with the locals, since not only do they have the economic means to fit in socially, but are surprisingly and refreshingly sincere and charming.


As I mentioned before, there are many different combinations of these 4 main categories, and perhaps I'm even leaving one or more categories out, who knows! And by no means am I trying to present a definitive anthropological study on the social habits and migratory patterns of ex-capitalinos in 'la provincia' as they conscious or subconsciously refer to any place other than their great D.F. These are simply a collection of personal observations, combined with comments I have heard from many Yucatecans throughout the years, from whom I have picked up strong negative vibrations towards these new arrivals.

Sin embargo, along with their attitudes, whether positive or bitchy, the capitalinos and foreigners in general are also bringing a new competitive edge in many areas of business (supermarkets being a major example) where the Yucatecans quite frankly were much too complacent and as a result have had to invest and modernize to keep up with the new competition, and that in itself is beneficial to the economy as a whole.

What the Yucatecans have to admit, however, is that time does not stand still, and more and more 'waches' will arrive, for better or for worse, in Merida as life in the capital city becomes more and more unbearable, changing even more drastically that small provincial town feeling that Merida and many other towns in Mexico once had.