Travelogue - Char Dham Pilgrimage

Travelogue - Char Dham Pilgrimage
By T.P.Viswanathan

OM NAMAHA SHIVAYA !

Most of the Endeavourites who went were undertaking such a tough and long tour for the first time in their lives when they enrolled themselves with Shri Sharda Tours (Mr. Nagarajan) after a lot of deliberations.

As scheduled the tour commenced on 2nd May and ended on 19th May.

The originally planned package was Rs.8600/- but the Operator sought an extra Rs.1000/- considering the escalation in cost of accommodation and other charges. Did this include the AC Rail fare? Don't know.

Arrival in Delhi - May 03, 2004

The party reached Delhi and they were accommodated in Hotel City Palace at Paharganj, a low cost, typically transitory accommodation. After bath, people went for marketing or for meeting their near and dear ones.

At night the team boarded Mussorie Express for Haridwar. Getting the luggage to Old Delhi Station and loading the same on to the train was a gruelling task and the team made it just in time.

Haridwar - May 04, 2004

The party arrived Haridwar Station at 6 a.m. and proceeded to Hotel Shiv Moorthy, situated close to the station. Stay at Haridwar hotel was comparatively better. Food was prepared and served by the cooks and helpers which accompanied the party from Mumbai.

About 6 people had a dip at River Ganges in Haridwar at 1.30 a.m. and offered oblations to forefathers at the time of Lunar Eclipse. However, they had to make a hasty retreat to the Hotel before the conclusion of Eclipse, as it was biting cold and wind was adding to the discomfort.

After break fast, the party was taken to Mansadevi and Chandi Devi temples, both of which are located at hill tops and connected by ropeways. While the ropeway travel was exciting, the temples were marvellous and none of the pilgrims missed the visits.

In the evening the party went to witness Ganga Arthi at Har-ki-pyeri, but reached slightly late.

Barkot Camp - May 05, 2004

The party could not make it to Kempty Falls at Mussorie, as it needed special permit and the permit was taking more time. Therefore, it proceeded straight to Barkot camp. Stay at Chauhan's hotel at Barkot Camp was fairly okay and food was prepared and served by the catering party accompanying the team.

Yamunothri - May 06, 2004

At 7 a.m. the party proceeded by bus to Hanuman Chatti by bus. From there, the team was lifted by jeep to Janaki Chatti, 7 k.m. away from Hanuman Chatti. The trek to Yamunotri, 10902 feet above the base camp, started from Janaki Chatti. 10 of the party made it by foot and others engaged horse, dholi or Pittu (a basket in which pilgrims were carried by Nepali Porters). Trekking by the rugged, beaten 4 ft. path was not only strenuous but also risky, but the foot soldiers made it by sheer will power and determination.

After a refreshing bath at Yamuna Kund (hot water pond), the party had a good darshan of main Yamuna Devi and deities like Lord Siva, Ganapathy, etc. the Kerala Brahmin pandit, who was the officiating priest, explained to the party about the origin and regular worship at the temple. The pandit said he has not moved out of Yamunotri for the past 50 years.

One is clueless as to how and where from the hot spring originates and caresses the bodies of the tired pilgrims.

Climb down was more taxing and took almost the same time as going up. Party reached Barkot Camp at 10.30 p.m. - 2 hours behind schedule. After a hurried dinner, the party retired for the night.

Uttarakashi - May 07, 2004

At 7 a.m. on May 7 the party left by bus for Uttarakashi via Dharasu. Lunch was taken enroute and the party arrived Uttarakashi at 4 p.m. Shri Vishwanatha Temple and Shri Ekadasha Rudra temple were serene and majestic. There were 11 metallic lingas representing 11 rudras.

Accommodation was booked at Nethal in Mahima Resort, around 7 k.m. away from Uttara Kashi, as some hotels at Uttarakashi fell victim to an earth quake followed by land slide last year. Gangothri - May 8

At 7.30 a.m. sharp the party left by bus for Gangothri, situated 43 k.m. from Mahima Resort. First call on the way was at Parasar Muni Ashram, where the entire team members had bath at Tapta Kund. At the ashram, in addition to Lord Ganesha, there was a temple dedicated to Parashara Muni.

The team arrived Gangothri, which was further 57 k.m. away and had good darshan of Ganga Mata and other devas. Ganga Jal was collected in Polythene cans. Some bought traditional Kalash made out of Brass in various sizes offering Ganga Jal to dear and near ones.

Gangothri stands at a height of 10302 feet from base camp. Sudden Hailstorm at Gangothri made some of the team members sick.

After Darshan and lunch, the party got back to Mahima Resort, Nethal at night. Resort was very beautiful, but were denied the pleasure of enjoying the wonderful environment because of night long power cut. Indisposition to some team members added to our woes.

Gupta Kashi - May 09, 2004

At 7 a.m. sharp the team left for Guptakashi by chartered bus bus via Uttarakashi, Dharasu, Tehri, Gadolia, Srinagar and Rudraprayag, reaching the camp at Maharashtra Mandal at around 7 p.m.

Kedarnath - May 10, 2004

The party left for Gauri Kund, 36 k.m. away, at about 9 a.m. (nearly 4 hrs. behind schedule), Gauri Kund is the last motorable point towards Kedarnath, from where Pilgrims have to treck 14 k.m. to reach Kedarnath.

After a refreshing bath at hot water spring at Gauri Kund, majority of the party left for Kedarnath by horse or Dholi. A brave gang of 4 traversed the entire stretch of 14 k.m. by foot. Though the rough, beaten road was broader than Yamunotri, the trekkers have had to take extra care about large number of horses and dholis; lest he does not get pushed away. The last 3 kilometres is a steep climb and those with strong will power and determination would make it.

Weather is the most debilitating factor to those trekking to Kedarnath. When Sun is merciful, its rays keep the trekker warm. The moment sun hides behind clouds, weather becomes chill.

On arriving at the top, pilgrims had a hurried lunch (at rather late hours). They dumped the luggage in Maharashtra Mandal hotel and hurried to Shri Kedarnathji Temple for darshan. The temple is most serene and beautiful. A few yards away from temple precincts, one can see the place where Adi Shankaracharya took sanyas. Little away from that Sankara's Samadhi Sthal is situated.

By the time the darshan was over, weather became bad and people were shivering with biting cold (around 4 degree centigrade). People were not even interested in food at night and hurried towards bed. Though bed and warm blankets were provided, the whole thing was wet due to cold. Hours after going to bed, many people got over the biting cold and snatched some sleep.

Two or three in the team were experiencing breathing problem due to lack of oxygen or congenital lung problem and attempts at getting a doctor were in vain. Fortunately, one member in the team had some stock of oxygen and that helped the most critical ones to see through the night. S

Early in the morning, people cleaned their teeth and face, sipped some hot coffee and rushed back towards Gauri Kund. Only after climbing down 3 or 4 kilo metres, people slowly got back to normal.

Pipalkoti - May 11, 2004

A around 12 noon, the party boarded the bus for Triyugi Narayan, where a temple, the sacred spots where Lord Shiva and Devi Parvathi got married in the presence of Lord Narayanan. Puja was offered by many of the team member at the place where Sapta Pati was performed by Lord and His Consort. Thereafter, the sacred fire before which the marriage was sanctified in the presence of Lord Narayana was visited and prayers offered. The whole episode happened in Tretha Yuga and hence the place is known as Triyugi Narayan.

At about 3 p.m. the team got back to Gupta Kashi, collected all luggage and proceeded towards Pipalkoti via Rudraprayag. The bus touched Pipalkoti (Hotel Alaknanda) at around 9.30 and, after a hurried, dinner, people retired for bed. Stay a Hotel Alaknanda was comfortable. On that day the team covered a distance of 160 k.m. from Gauri Kund to Pipalkoti (excluding the diversion to Triyugi Narayan, which was more then 6 k.m. ).

Badrinath - May 12 & 13, 2004

At around 8.30 a.m. the team left Pipalkoti for Badrinath, 78 km away, via Joshi Mutt, Vishnu Prayag. After lunch was taken, the team left for Mana Camp - the last village in the Indo-Tibetan Border - and offered prayers at Vyasa Guha - the place where Sage Veda Vyasa dictated Mahabarath to Lord Ganesha) and River Saraswathi. That is the only place where the sacred river Saraswathi is seen flowing on the surface. One can also witness the confluence of Saraswathi and Alakananda a few meters away. Near Saraswathi River one comes across 'Bhim Phol'. Legend has it that on way to getting Saugandhika Flower, Bhim encountered Saraswathi River and to pass through it, he laid a huge rock which served as a bridge.

In the evening the team had the Darshan of Lord Badrinathji. Though it was a hurried darshan, people did enjoy it. Badrinath Temple is the most beautiful of all in Char Dham. For Madhva Brahmins, visit to Badrinath is the ultimate, in the same way as other Hindus consider visit to Kashi and Gaya.

Early morning on 13th May the entire team took the opportunity of offering prayers to Lord Badrinathji along with Lord Kubera and Devi Mahalakshmi after taking bath in Tapth Kund - a hot water spring. In Badrinath one finds three hot water ponds of various temperatures and devotees have the choice of selecting any one.

Some of the eligible team members offered Pinda Pradhanam to the forefathers and Tharpanam at Brahma Kapalam, which is considered to be more pious than even Gaya Shradham.

Pipalkoti - May 13, 2004

Immediately after lunch, the party loaded its luggage on top of the bus and proceeded towards Pipalkoti, where the bulk luggage of each one was stored in a room.

Haridwar - May 14, 2004

At 7 a.m. in the morning the party resumed its return journey to Haridwar - a marathon 250 k.m. drive. There were halts for lunch and tea on the way. At 8 p.m. the members checked into Hotel Shivmoorthy.

Visits in Haridwar - May 15, 2004

Members took benefit of Ganga Snanam in Haridwar once again in the morning. After breakfast, some important Ashrams / temples a Kankal and Bilkeshwar were visited. In one of the temples the Yaga Shala and Yaga Agni Kundam, where Daksha performed his infamous yaga were seen. At the gate of that temple, A statue depicting Lord Shiva carrying the charred body of Devi Dakshayani was also seen. The same temple houses Dasha Maha Rahashyam - 10 different swaroopas of Devi - something very rare.

A few members visited the Yoga Ashram of Sri Ramdevji Maharaj, a famous exponent of Yoga and Aryuved Chikitsa. The Ashram is patronized by a large number of people, for consultation, treatment and medicines, in addition to Yoga Abhyas.

After lunch was taken, the team packed off to Rishikesh with bag and baggage.

On the way to Riskhikesh, the team was taken for a visit to Vasishta Guha, in which Sage Vasishta is said to have been doing penance. The Ashram is headed by a saint originating from Kerala, who blessed us and gave prasadam. According to the locals, the guha is about 18 k.m. long. Members could go upto around 100 meters where a large Shiva Linga and a traditional oil lamp were seen. This Linga is worshipped daily.

The Team was informed that the Ashram was well equipped and could provide food on request if the devotees schedule their visit for the morning pooja.

Arrive at Rishikesh

The bus engaged for Char Dham visit was released at Haridwar. The party left for Rishikesh by another chartered bus which arrived there by around 5.30 p.m. and checked into Hotel Suruchi.

Sightseeing at Rishikesh - May 16, 2004

Some members of the party had a bath in Triveni Ghat at Rishikesh. After breakfast, members left in batches by rickshaw to Lakshman Jhula. Members were taken to Neelkanth Mahadev temple on top of a hill, which was 20 k.m. away from the base. The temple was magnificent, but the journey in the hot son was very tedious. On return from that temple, a guide was engaged who took the party to Ganga Mayi temple, Laxman Temple, Hanuman temple, etc. The guide then dropped the members at UP Handicrafts emporium, where members purchased various items like Rudraksh, Spatikam, Navarathna, etc.

Thereafter, members were taken by jeep to Ram Jhula. After crossing that, the members left for the hotel and had a late lunch at around 4.30 p.m. The sweltering heat and the long bus journey put some people out of action.

In the evening the party left for Shivananda Ashram and from there for shopping. After the shopping, members returned to the hotel by around 9 p.m.

Departure to Delhi - May 17, 2004

Some members were terribly ill and chose to leave for Haridwar by taxi and from there to Delhi by AC Deluxe bus.

The plan was to leave for Delhi by bus early in the morning. Though members were ready by around 9 a.m. the contract bus arrived late and left only at 12.30 p.m.

The bus arrived Delhi by around 9 p.m., by when members were totally exhausted. The team was greeted by an ill-prepared hotel staff and the hotel did not have power supply and sufficient rooms to accommodate all. After chaotic and acrimonious discussions, the party was put in two hotels, both of which were horrible - no power, no proper water supply and generally very dirty.

As it was too late to cook, night food was ordered from a nearby hotel, which many members did not relish.

Departure to Mumbay - May 18, 2004

Early in the morning, eligible men offered oblations to the forefathers on the eve of Amavasya and, after lunch, did a little shopping.

At 3 p.m. members packed off to New Delhi Station. The train was late by nearly an hour and left New Delhi at 5.45 p.m.

Arrival in Mumbai - May 19, 2004

Members took the well-deserved rest in the comfortable AC-3 Tier sleeper for full day. The food provided by the Tour Operator was not palatable and all chose to buy whatever they wanted from pantry car. As soon as the train halted at Bandra Terminus, members in groups of 3 or four rushed home in taxies.

The tour could be said to be a success as far as visits to Char Dham, bath at appointed places and darshan are concerned. Members without exception were fully satisfied on those counts.

The driver and conductor who took us through Char Dham were exceptionally good. They were not just running staff, but our companions. They accompanied right up to the places of worship and offered their prayers too.

Except for Delhi, stay in other places was reasonably good, considering the local environment and climatic conditions. Expecting more than that at Himalayas is a tall order. One got the impression that the tour operator compromised too much in Delhi and disappointment was writ large on all the participants.

Food was reasonably okay, but there was no variety. Due to extensive travel, the team have had to put up with untimely eating which upset the digestive system of a large number of them.

All in all a very tiring but memorable trip.