England All Over comes out on Hodder & Stoughton’s Sceptre (Melvyn Bragg’s label) in March 2000. It is intended to put the middle classes in their place by addressing their decline (swapping football for opera), and illustrating the earthquake going on in the English class system. And I don’t even use the word ‘tectonic’. The hero Clive Pointing is a disgraced ex-Geography teacher. He was called Clive Ponting but my editor said change it.

 

 

1)

Protagonist Clive has reached his peak of confusion and desire, both for England and Rose, the woman he works with. At last he gets the better of the language (English):

“I have a question for you,” she said. Normally this would have been ominous, but with her he was happy to answer.

 

“You know you said yesterday ‘This is my favourite thing, this is my England’? Well, what else? What else?”

 

“God, there’s such a lot. Lots of things, mad things, beautiful things…What is England to me? Roundabouts. Three inch breakers.” He thought for a moment. “Unsolved cattle maimings. A ten-yard queue at a free phone box. Catfights at the Harrods sale. Celebrities mentioning their bowel movements in interviews. Stopped clocks. Car manufacturers’ recalls….”

 

She smiled.

 

“I’ll tell you what it is, Rose.” From his backpack he produced the megaphone. “Hello everybody, hello! Can you hear me? Oyez, oyez….that’s French by the way…” There was a whistle of feedback, and his voice had a rough electronic tang to it, and cut across the landscape.

 

“Army surplus stores. Fans who turn up to boo at Luton Airport. Hanging baskets that drip. Tweedy men who work for 1950s wages. Hand-inked bus passes and home made tax discs. Judges dressed as babies. Supermarket closings. Wreathes on a grass verge. An ex-con’s paper bag. A 21 year old junior school teacher coming third in Miss Great Britain. Grandparents handing their grandkids back. Old sweets made for the nostalgia market. A new Blue Peter presenter. Chilled lagers. Old maids cycling to therapy. Engraved shotguns. A steaming filly. Petrol station glasses. Riverside pubs. Obsessional litigants. Unwitting homosexuals. Vote-counters. Foster parents. Wheelchair heptathletes. Pensioners who shout ‘Stringemup’ at Black Mariahs. Empty mental homes. Cream eggs. Pubs at 11 am. Grocers apostrophes. Rebel commuters on the tracks. Rejected astronauts. Nobel Prize winners who still go in to work the next day. Giant graffiti on motorway bridges. Isle of Man masochists. Soup after school. Double entendres. Picnics in lay-byes. That Peel bloke when you least expect him. Wind in the willows. Outrage at the Olivier. New pop stars. Farm boys on dirt bikes. Indignation. The longest day. The hottest day. Silent libraries. Cable burning. Have you had enough?” he asked her, and the world in general.

 

“No!” she shouted from fifteen yards away. “Tell me more.”

 

“Riots. Sue Ryder shops. Agents for this and that. Moaning. Tower block demolition. Executives with carrier bags. Criminals in their court suits. Scallies blocking the handicapped ramp. The dead old lady and the hundred cats. Pubs at 11pm. African night shift cleaners. Bonfire night. Fat. Light aircraft tragedies. Green flash pumps. Smoking footballers. Sponge swirl ceilings. Shakespeare outdoors. Vomit in corners. Three squaddies looking for a country pub. Midges. Temporary frost. Visiting dignitaries. Swords reversed. Car boot sales. Vacuum tube valves. Paddle boats. Roman numerals. Monogrammed hankies. Cones. Knot gardens. Troublemakers. Quink. Asian Babes. Victorian swimming baths. Tartan shopping trolleys. Scabs. Tank crossings. Frog crossings. Pelican crossings. Pigeon fanciers. Genetic engineers. Poets. The detention centre at Heathrow. The Burger King at Heathrow. Social climbers. Rock climbers. Windmills. Toast. Dole offices. Postmen hiding letters in a hedge. Film critics. Slot machines. Redesigns. Anthrax. Cheese rolling. Twats in Union Jack suits. Waistcoats. Sellotape culture. Need I go on? I could go on.”

 

Rose was laughing throughout. “Save it! Save it for next time I’m sad.”

 

 

 

 

2) On their Hit The North Tour, Clive and Barry, the geezer guide he works with, try taking the punters round some real heritage property, the Wordsworth museum at Dove Cottage, Grasmere, in the Lake District.

 

A pub lunch soon sorted them out, during which Clive lectured them on the Lake poets.

 

He took a vote on where they should go next: Beatrix Potter’s Hill Top Farm, or William Wordsworth’s old house, Dove Cottage at Grasmere. It took a lot of negative campaigning about the old bag Potter but finally he got the votes to see the Wordsworths’s museum-home. He was one of the serious poets that reminded him of his mother and her hobby. Better than going to see a load of crap about some kid’s book, as he told Barry.

 

“God I read enough of those to my Tess to know what a rip-off kids’ books are. Ten quid for 200 words and some crappy drawings. You know that Postman Pat’s from round here?”

 

“Stands to reason dunnit? Postman Pat and his black and white cat. Twat,” said Barry. “And them thick cardboard pages. They love to chew em. That’s why I only get ‘em vijoes now. You can’t chew a video can you? Besides, you can slap it in any old time. Not like reading a book.”

 

“Oh, Barry. You’re such a….fucking…yob,” said Clive, not without affection. Barry took it well.

 

“Just be careful who you say that in front of, that’s all,” said Barry, not without menace. 

 

Dove Cottage turned out to be a poky little hole. Nasty cold flagstones. Hard furniture. A mean little fire. Black wood everywhere so it was too dark to read by candlelight. It was made of stone and had a slate roof, and the windows were tiny. Everyone shambled through after the guide like people in the property market. The guide pointed out that it used to be a pub called the Dove and Olive. Barry looked around with sudden interest.

 

“That’s my dream, that is.”

 

“What, to live in a pub?”

 

“Above one. Own it. Come down, pour a pint anytime I want. Play some pool. Have me mates round. Course I’ll never have the money if I keep doing this.” He looked troubled for a moment. “I need a big score. I need the really big score if I’m ever going to do it.”

 

“Like this lot. Always broke, till it was too late,” said Clive, referring to the Wordsworths.

 

They saw the floor spaces where Coleridge and De Quincey used to crash, and all the other loafers who couldn’t pay their rent more than two months in a row. Wordsworth’s babies slept in baskets in the kitchen, and he did his writing sitting in a weird angular chair with everyone tramping through. His sister Dorothy did most of the housework, and had her own little cube where she wrote her arselicking journal. After a bit, William married some local bird called Mary.

 

“So, he’d go off walking with his sister and write her love letters and all that. D’you fink there was anything, you know, going on there?”

 

The guide was speechless and turned bright red.

 

“No, definitely not,” said Clive loudly, taking over. He’d read a bit about them in his anthology. “They were soul mates. Dorothy helped him with his poems, made fair copies, talked about them. The thing with his poems, and Coleridge’s, they were meant to be simple, almost innocent. Simple language, everyday subjects, but with a lot of emotion. No one was doing stuff about farm girls and cuckoos then, not really. He even sent a copy of his Lyrical Ballads to a politician with a note saying see, ‘Men who do not wear fine clothes can feel deeply’. He had a motto – ‘Plain living and high thinking.’”

 

Rose tugged at Clive’s sleeve to shut him up. It was an etiquette thing, stealing another guide’s thunder.

 

“I’m just saying,” he protested. The guide hustled everyone to have a look in the next room. It was where the kids slept when there were too many people staying. It was the size of a closet, had three external walls and even in August it felt like a fridge. The walls had recently been papered with yellowed copies of the Times from Wordsworth’s day, a heritage touch. Barry read out the numbers for the National Lottery of 1800.

 

They skipped the museum and shop and stood outside while Barry smoked.

 

“Plain living and high thinking. That’s a nice idea,” said Rose.

 

“It’s the opposite of Barry. Hey Barry, how does it feel to have met your antithesis? Your complete opposite”

 

“I’d never dog my sister like him, if that’s what you mean. Sister-in-law, maybe,” he said with a  grin, and flicked his cigarette butt at Clive, making him leap out of the way. “Where are we staying tonight anyway?”

 

 

3) 

 Very early in the book, Barry comes home to his first floor flat in a tower block in Stratford, East London, and after seeing out is sister in law who was babysitting, and putting his three girls to bed, he sits down to watch TV, but starts reminiscing about the days when he was a Club 180-30 guide, and fun he had.

 

He'd asked Donna to tape his favourite soap, East Enders, but she cocked it up and got a load of rubbish instead. Flicking around between the channels he couldn't settle on anything, even satellite was boring for once. There was a square photo on top of the telly of Barry in his twenties with Christine. They looked shiny and happy, like they’d had a day on the beach, and they both had cocktails in front of them. Her bare arm was draped around his neck. There was another woman’s arm round his neck, coming from the other side, but whoever it was had been cropped.

 

For over ten years, into his mid thirties, Barry had been a Club 18 to 30 guide. He saw them all. Groups of party-mad teenagers mixed in with blossoming young adults, geezers with fresh paunches and girls with caesarean scars, shipping 'em in and out of Gatwick and Luton like mutton to Europe. All sorts, but all basically the same. Van drivers and pipefitters, bouncers, barrow boys and bakery girls, production liners and fork lift drivers, service industry foot soldiers, clerks and temps and typists and “Exec Asses”, cuties who worked in jeans shops, the girls who served pies at the skating rink, the BT blokes who fixed your phone, trainee coppers, firemen, nurses - tons of nurses, lovely nurses out of uniform and wearing just bikinis - dole office people with their pallid skin and hangdog looks (they took a bit of extra cheering up but he could do it), the blokes who dug up the roads, already brown and hard and able to live on ten pints and four hours sleep a night (plus a nap on the beach), thieves and fences, e-peddlers, Aspirin launderers, barmen, people who worked in record shops, people who worked in exhaust pipe centres, people who worked nights putting holes in washers, North Sea trawlermen (he had known it, six incomprehensible Yorkshire boys who drank until they fell down and had to be constantly rescued by hotel security), rastas even, aerobics teachers, dole-ites, dole-ites, thousands of dole-ites with their black market money, non-specific slappers, blokes who sold cars and vans, blokes who sold insurance, boxers, lots of boxers for some reason, fake ID council workmen, baggage handlers, even a bus driver once, from Scunthorpe or Skegness or somewhere northern like that, on his own and horny as hell, all he wanted to know was where he could get off his face all the time and where could he get sex local even if he had to pay for it, mental, never stopped smiling for a week.... Polytechnic students, more and more students in fact, schoolgirls though they weren't supposed to, launderette girls, supermarket girls, product demonstration girls who wanted to be models, Irish girls, the odd Asian and his mates, not very happy about that in the early days but attitudes seemed to change and they were accepted, Asian babes as they started to get a bit of money and attitude, waitresses, office managers, salesmen, trainee accountants, muggers, everyone. Everyone. Even the odd gaggle of public schoolboys looking for an easy ride.

 

Barry had been an alpha male among Club 18-30 reps. He shagged his way through half of England during his halcyon days, when he used to take two loads of punters a week to Greece. And Greece was the place for him. He'd done a lot of no-name tours pulled together in shop fronts in east London before he worked his way up to Club 18-30. He did a dodgy caravan site in the St Tropez for a year, cramming them in and dragging them out, though he thought the South of France was too posh and a bit too nudie in a German businessman sort of way. He knew all the service stations of the Autoroutes and the names of all the cross channel ferries, he knew what time the airports closed around Europe and how to avoid the more massive queues. Club 18-30 came after him because their reps had seen him around in various Mediterranean watering holes, always with a string of happy punters in tow. He did Ibiza for a while until it went trendy, then the Costas, which were OK, a bit common but the traffic was there. But Greece, Greece was the place. The Aegean Sea. Corfu, Kos, Dos, Tos, Rhodes, Faliraki, and even bits of Turkey, Bodrum and Marmaris. Names that had once seemed strange and now seemed like home.

 

Barry led them everywhere. From departure day, chasing stragglers out of the duty free shop at Gatwick where they already had the tops off their litres of vodka and perfume and getting them on to the waiting plane which was already half-full of moaning Mancs and Brummies...to the last day when he signed off on hungover lads on crutches with moped road rash or sunburn and watched them wheeled away by their friends on luggage trolleys. Barry was the man.

 

He entertained them on the plane with stories of cheap ouzo, topless swimming parties and loud clubs, he sorted out the shy ones and made sure they got loaded or laid at least once by the middle of the week, and he threatened his lads with jail and the cricket bat when they got too out of order and clashed too violently with the locals.

 

But what Barry was best at was the extras. Charming unexpected tariffs out of the punters for the things they had seen in the brochure and naively assumed would be free: parasailing, windsurfing, dune buggies, snorkel gear, ping-pong, barbecues, wine tasting, donkey up the hill to the monastery...even a Frisbee was a fiver. Barry taxed with a smile and embezzled with a poker face, and everybody loved him.

 

Great days, those had been great days. The money, the birds, the laughs. Now, as Barry put it, things were tighter than a gnat's chuff and not half as much fun. Britannia didn't compare. The unpredictable tourists, the strong pound, the rain - England wasn't Greece. Barry didn't like that posh twat Alex, and didn't think the new bloke looked up to much either. He seemed pretty green. Still, it just meant more extras for him.

 

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