The first essential is a crate. This will provide the dog with a safe haven and you with an excellent tool for housetraining. Buy a crate that will be suitable for your dog when it reaches adulthood. There are two types of crates - the wire and the plastic or fiberglass. The proper sized wire crate for an adult is approximately 21"(W) x 30"(L) x 24"(H). For the fiberglass/plastic crate look for the Vari-Kennel 300 or 400, the Pet Porter medium and the Furrarri 350 or 450.

When the puppy is out of the crate it will still need to be confined to one area until housetraining has been accomplished. Since the kitchen usually has washable floors it makes an excellent choice. If there is no door a baby gate is indispensable in preventing the young dog from bounding through the house and soiling the carpets. An alternative to the baby gate is an exercise pen.

Food - quality dog food made for puppies - follow the breeder's feeding instructions. Puppies up to the age of 6 months are usually fed 3 times daily; from 6 - 12 months 2 times daily. Once again follow the breeder's instructions but puppies over 12 months are usually fed a quality dog food made for adults.

COLLAR and LEASH - rolled nylon collar fit to the circumference of the dog’s neck, a six foot leash and a retractable leash which provides the dog availability to run up to 26 feet and you the ease of an easy grip handle. The line will automatically extend and retract and there is a thumb-operated brake for you to use to stop the extension at any time.

GROOMING SUPPLIES - medium toothed metal comb, pin brush, slicker brush, nail clippers, septic powder (clotting powder used on nails that have been cut too short), toothbrush, ‘doggy’ toothpaste

TOY CHEST - Puppies need a variety of toys to keep them busy and to allow for chewing. Avoid any toys made of soft plastic because they are easily and quickly eaten. The small squeaker or a large piece of plastic, once swallowed, can block the small intestine causing severe illness. Rawhide bones are not recommended because the puppy can swallow whole pieces which block the stomach passages. The following are just a few suggested items:

	Nylabones (for hours of safe chewing)
	Plaque Attacker bones
	Frisbees made for dogs - these make wonderful toys for retrieving purposes
	Kongs (hint: try spreading peanut butter inside this - hours of amusement)
	Various types of balls - springers love to retrieve
	rope toys

MISCELLANEOUS - 2 stainless steel bowls (1 quart capacity)

Scheduled meals at specific times of the day help the house training efforts because the dog’s body will naturally need to relieve itself at set times following the meals. Young puppies (2 - 6 months) usually need to be fed three times a day, older puppies and adults should be fed two times a day. The puppy should be fed undisturbed in a quiet place - a crate is the ideal place. The labels on the dog food packages will provide a guide for the amount to feed. Remember that the amount suggested is the daily intake so you need to divide it by the number of feedings. Your breeder will also provide guidance as to the amount of food to feed each day and what supplements to add. Let the dog’s development be the final guide as to how much to feed - a healthy but thin dog should be fed more whereas a chubby dog would get less. (back to top)

Exercise: Most English Springer Spaniels can be at home on a standard, fenced 50 X 100 foot city lot’s backyard, as long as they have the opportunity for some daily exercise. After a puppy matures, brisk walks, bicycling or ball-chasing can maintain your dog’s fitness. The amount of exercise a Springer requires varies widely for individual dogs. (back to top)

Nails should be trimmed often to prevent feet from splaying and sore pads and toes. Teeth should also be brushed two to three times a week with a soft brush and ‘doggy toothpaste’ to prevent tooth decay and gum disease. (back to top)

Basic Grooming Tools: When used correctly grooming tools contribute significantly to the health of the skin and hair and enhance a dog's general appearance. The following are some of the basic supplies you will need: Brushes come in a wide variety of sizes and styles. The bristle brush is an all-purpose brush that may be used on the English Springer Spaniel. The bristles can be made of nylon, natural material or a combination of the two. All-nylon bristles are quite hard. They may break fragile hair or cause static electricity, so they are usually inappropriate. The softest and most preferred type of brush is a natural bristle brush. It is also the most expensive. Pin brushes are usually used to groom long-haired breeds such as the English Springer Spaniel. A variety of sizes are available for easy brushing. A common type of brush is the slicker brush. The bent-wire teeth of the slicker brush are set close together to help remove mats and dead hair. Most come in three sizes: small, medium, and large. Slicker brushes will take out large amounts of coat, which is good if you want to reduce the around-the-house accumulation from shedding. A slicker may not be the correct choice if you're trying to keep the maximum amount of coat on your dog for the show ring. Combs come in a wide variety of sizes and styles, with different tooth lengths and spacing. In general, fine-tooth combs are best used on soft, silky or sparse hair. Medium-tooth combs are used for average coat textures and coarse-tooth combs are good for dense or heavy coats. Some combs have close-set teeth on one end and wide-spaced teeth on the other end. The length of the teeth should depend on how far the comb needs to penetrate to reach the skin. Some combs have handles; others do not. The best combs are made of stainless steel or chrome-plated solid brass and have spring-tempered teeth with rounded tips to prevent skin irritation. Stripping implements should only be used by experienced groomers to groom the English Springer Spaniel for the show ring. In the broadest sense, stripping involves the removal of the undercoat using a specialized grooming technique. For a better explanation on using stripping tools, consult your breed experts. Nail clippers are essential. You should clip a springer's nails once a week. If you begin to clip the nails when your springer is a puppy and make this time a quality time with your dog you will not have any problems. Remember to reward with affection, praise and treats when you puppy has behaved in an appropriate manner.  When clipping the nails just take the white tip off. You should be able to see where the quick of the nail starts in the nail as it will be slightly darker. Only clip back to the quick, never into the quick as it will both bleed and hurt the puppy. If you do happen to clip into the quick use a bit of 'Quick Stop' or another brand of septic powder made especially to stop the bleeding of nails. You will find these products at all pet stores. (back to top)

Ask your breeder, friends, neighbors, coworkers and nearby relatives who own dogs to tell you who their vet is and why they chose that person.

Ask your local kennel club for a list of vets who regularly work with purebred dogs. Another option is to contact your local or state veterinary association.

Once you have compiled a list of the possible candidates, call their offices and ask for basic information regarding office hours and fees for routine procedures such as an annual checkup or vaccinations. Do they accept credit cards or must payments be made in cash? What is the procedure if there is an after-hours emergency? Does the vet have 24-hour coverage on site, and if not, how often are overnight patients checked?

Approximately what percentage of clients have dogs? How many of them are of your breed? Does the doctor specialize in any areas (e.g. surgery, dental care, eye care, orthopedics, allergies)? Does the doctor make house calls? What are the provisions in place for veterinary care when your doctor is not available?

Pay attention to how the receptionists (or doctors) listen to and answer your questions. Are they pleasant and helpful, or bored and rushed? How you are treated on the phone might be a good indication of how you and your dog will be treated in person.

Narrow down your list to conveniently located vets with office hours, payment policies, and emergency procedures that meet your needs.

Plan to visit each office, and check to see that it is clean, well-lit, and free of strong odors. Ask to see where overnight patients are housed and how they are supervised "after hours". It is common to ask about a vet's schooling and other advanced and continuing education.

Ask each vet how he or she would treat a specific condition that may affect your breed (e.g. hip dysplasia, deafness, skin disorders, or kidney disease). Listen carefully to the answer, paying attention not only to what is said but how it is said. Remember, the vet you choose will be responsible for the well-being of your beloved dog, so it is important to find a vet who keeps current with the latest advances in veterinary medicine and who can communicate with you in a helpful, clear manner. In other words, you should choose a vet as carefully as you would choose your own doctor or your child's pediatrician.

If you don't like a vet's answer or the way you are treated by the vet or any staff member, it is probably best to remove that vet from your list.

After you've narrowed down your choices, schedule a routine visit for your dog with the vet at the top of the list. It is better to learn about a vet before there is an emergency. This time, take note of how the staff and vet relate to your dog.