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When Max Azria's BCBG group bought the house of Hervé Léger last October, we learnt that the affair was a partnership, giving Hervé Léger full creative freedom. Six months and one perfume later, the designer was fired. The house then recruited 24-year-old fashion starlet Jérôme Dreyfuss to design their first ever haute couture collection, the result of which was unveiled yesterday afternoon.
It was an extremely rewarding event in terms of bribes. The public relations people at Hervé Léger had gone all out, showering the audience with small perfume bottles, champagne, hors d'oeuvres and strawberries. In the midst of these festivities, one could not help but have a sympathetic thought for Hervé Léger himself, and hope that he will soon find his way out of the dog-house.
Dreyfuss's début haute couture collection was brave, high-spirited and slightly uneven - not surprising since he only had a month and a half to prepare it. We were pleased to see Dreyfuss's sexy shapes intact: skin-tight pants, body-hugging dresses and skimpy tops, although it would have been nice to get a break from his boleros and Mao collars.
There were some clever touches, like Dreyfuss's reinvention of Léger's signature "bandage" technique. This was particularly well executed in a long-sleeved top molded out of braided ribbons, and accessories like a fake sleeve stitched together out of golden banglets. Another highlight was the fusion of lace, sequins and silk into intricate skinny sheathes.
Gold glimmered throughout the collection; in thin stitching criss-crossed over black crèpe suits and dresses, hoops orbiting around the models' heads, and bands crossing their chests Olympian goddess style. Dreyfuss also showed his fondness for glitter in a sequined silver poncho and long skirt, and sparkling gold and purple silk brocade on snug evening gowns and pants.
Fashion may be fickle, but one thing is for sure: the adorable Peter Pan-ish Dreyfuss will always be the favorite of models, who all ran up to kiss and cuddle him at the curtain call.
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