Bocas del Toro

Click here for Bocas Cruiser's Guide Bocas is a small town in a large bay that is protected by many islands. We came here because there are waves and a marina. There are several breaks nearby and at least four are accessible by dinghy from the marina. We have found two surf spots that are secret spots, at least we have surfed them several times, alone. The town has the charm of the "old Caribbean" with friendly locals, several stores, hotels, bars and restaurants, a bank, but nothing fancy. We planned on staying for two months, but after 8 months, we're still here. I have been busy making websites for locals and cruisers. The Bocas Yacht Club and Marina is a first-class organization run by friendly English speakers. They make every effort to help cruisers with all manner of needs. This is the best marina in Panama. We have visited David (Panama's second largest city), Boquete (beautiful mountain town famous for coffee and flowers), Almirante and Changuinola (large towns, very "Panamanian"). Picture, if you will, a tropical rainforest with low coastal mountains carpeted with evergreens. Below spreads a beautiful lush valley where the volcanic soil is black and fertile. A small river winds its way through a town of friendly people. Welcome to Boquete, Panama. The climate here is so pleasant that some travelers stay forever. We caught a commuter flight from Bocas del Toro, on the Caribbean coast of Panama, to the city of David. From there, we rode by bus to Boquete. The whole trip took a couple of hours and cost $52 dollars for two. We made the trip with friends, George and Sue, from another boat. From the airplane, you can see how sparsely populated this rugged and often inaccessible part of Central America is. Arriving in Boquete, we took a taxi (50 cents per person) to our hotel, the Isla Verde. The rooms, which where separate cabinas, were attractive and cheerful, clean and tidy. Set among tropical flowers and plants, they featured contemporary European styling with lofts, small well-equiped kitchems. Leaving the hotel, we walked around the town to check it out. There was the traditional town square, with its park, church and government building. Most of the town faces the main street, where a variety of shops sold everything from baby food to television sets. There were even two internet cafes. We had dinner at a Mexican (that's right) restaurant. A big lunch or dinner down here runs about 7 dollars a person, including a cocktail and beer. The following day we visited a coffee factory where we learned how the fresh beans are processed, roasted and packaged. Carlos, our guide showed us the roasting ovens and packaging machines. Later we walked down the road to a hotel that has an amazing garden that covers several acres and contains hundreds of species of flowers and shrubs. After getting a ride back to David from the hotel owners, we checked into the Hotel Castillo for 25 dollars a night. It was not luxury, but it was very nice, clean and comfortable with T.V. and air conditioning. David, the second-largest city in Panama, is a bustling commercial center. A taxi here will take you take you anywhere in town for a dollar. We hired one to drive us back to the Bocas del Toro area for 20 dollars per person (it's a three hour drive, one way). During this part of the trip, we passed through more tropical rainforest, complete with waterfalls (many) and lakes. Indian villages ensconsed in the jungle revealed the Guaymi families living as they have for centuries. No electricity, plumbing, glass windows or doors. Many huts had thatched roofs, and were built upon stilts.(to avoid termites and other critters). After the long drive, we arrived in Almirante, a small fishing village and port. From there we rode the water taxi back to the island of Bocas del Toros. The Panamanians are good, hardworking, honest, friendly people who remind me of how people in the U.S. were fifty years ago.