The name clownfish derives from the strange swimming action, quite unlike other streamlined fish, the do seem to 'bob' about quite a lot as opposed to 'swimming. Clowns form one of the most colorful groups found in captivity, latively easy to maintain and very amusing.
Coming from the family Pomacentride in the genera Amphiprion, they have been a stand by for some many years. There are considered to be about 27 species in all and this breaks down as follows:-
Clarkii = 11 species | Skunk clown fish = 6 species |
Tomato clown = 3 species | Percula = 2 species |
Saddlebak = 3 species | Premnas = 1 {Premnas biaculatus} or Maroon Clown |
One of their main attractions is the symbiotic relationship with anemones. These stinging animals, that look like flowers, have tentacles or nematocytes that are capable of inflicting a sting and consequentlly paralysis anything that touches them. used to capture prey but they do cause the human hand some bother also. In nature all clownfish are found within tentacles, never straying far from their host. The usual arrangement appears to be two adult and several juvenile fish living in the aenmone. The largest of which will be female. All clowns are born males and in nature the largest of thse inhabiting an anemone will turn into a female the second biggest becomes the dominant male. We can use this naturalphenomena in the home aquarium by selecting a pair, one large and one smaller and so we can be certain of having both a male and female and so can be bred by the hobbyist.
The full nature of the clowns immunity to the stinging nematocytes is not as yet, fully understood but it is thought they secrete a mucous on their bodies that prevents the host from activating the stinging process or, alternatively the mucous acts as a barrier which is the theory I personally subscribe to.
It has been observed in their natural habitat, that whena clown is removed to a
new territory
it will immediately make for the nearest anemone. However their
is no diving in head first
instead the tail is introduced slowly into the
tentacle followed gradually by the body. This
would suggest that the fish is
learning to mimic or produce the anemone's mucous.
This commensal or symbiotic
relationship sems to protect the clown from enemies or
predation and, in turn,
the clown chases away any fish that might injure its host. In fact it has
been
postulated that the bold colors of the fish acts as a warning to others to stay
away from
its habitat.
Additionally there may well be some benefit to the anemone from the clown's
feeding, bits
of food may well drop onto the host and help feed it. It has
also been suggested that the fish
acts as a charlady assisting in keeping the
anemone clean also the fish moving in and out
will undoubtably help to create
currents of water which assist in this process.
Not all anemones are inhabited by clownfish, the preferred species appear to be
Hecteractis
and Stoichactis species.
Although this relationship is interesting and entertaining to observe at home, clowns may be kept without having an anemone in the tank. Indeed evidence seems to be emerging that indicates that tank bred clown are reluctant to commence the relationship which is normal on the coral reef.
YES! they can be bred at home, one of the few but growing number of marines that are suitable for this function. It is not the breeding that promotes difficulties, after all nature will take its course, its the raising of fry that presents problems.
Normally when the mood is on a mated pair of fish, usually during the summer
months, and
when the lunar cycle is right they will start a courtship, late
afternoon appearing to be the
favoured time. They will clear a site, and in
their natural environment this will be at the base
of an anemone, and which is
easy to defend, and there deposit and fertilise their yellow eggs.
Ordinarily this takes a few days mainly undertaken by the male with his partner
acting as a
guard or defender.
Following hatching which takes place during the hours of darkness as light
falling on the eggs
will delay the process, the fry then become part of oceans
planktonic mass.
At home I prefer to remove the eggs {using a baster- see page 2 - breeding
tank} on the 5th
or 6th day and transfer them to a hatching/rearing tank,
taking care always to keep the eggs
in water. This secondary tank contains
water from the parents tank. When you are ready for
the hatch, blank out all
light and leave from 2 to 3 hours. Then carefully check the tank and
with some
luck you should have numerous fry. Now follows the difficult part e.g. feeding.
They will be ready to feed fairly soon and you should have first food ready
preferably rotifers.
{See live food - Page 5}.
For the first few days feed several times during a 24 hour period, my own
regime is 2 hourly,
and if the water level is kept at about 6 inches this will
help the fry to find the food easily
without having to hunt through vast
volumes of water. After about 4 days brine shrimp can
be introduced and
following a further 4 to 5 days, small powdered flake can be added.
Aeration during this period must be very gentle and sponge type internal
filters are used by
many breeders at this time.
Larvae reach metamorphosis at round about 4 weeks, with color patterns
developing.
Fry are not happy with water changes so I usually use water from the parent's
tank for this
purpose. Incidentally if you have an algae bloom dont worry as
the fry can feed on this also.
SPECIES IN THIS GROUP INCLUDE:-
AMPHIPRION
akallopsis | akindynos | allardii | bicinctus | chrysogaster | chrysopterus |
clarkii | ephippium | frenatus | fuscodautus | latezonatus | leucrokranus |
mccullochii | melanopus | nigripes | ocellaris | percula | peridarion |
polymnus | rubrocinctus | sandarcinos | sebae | theilei | tricinctis |
biaculeatus |
If you wish further discussion or have any queries then please E-Mail me.
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