Australian Walkabout

Lazing and Sailing in Whitsunday Islands (27- Aug - 02-Sep 2000)
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Last modified September 22nd 2000


Sun 27-Aug : Lots of driving to Airlie Beach
A very tiring day with about 8 hours of high speed driving from Gladstone to Airlie Beach. En route we cross over the Tropic of Capricorn at the town of Rockhampton, and indeed the temperatures and sunshine are becoming more pronounced as we head deeper into tropical latitudes. After dark, we wearily wheel into the town of Airlie Beach, which is mainly a departure point for sailing cruises around the Whitsunday Islands on the Great Barrier Reef. The town is buzzing this evening with many locals from the industrial town of Mackay down the coast.

The Patmobile enters the tropics

The Brisbane Broncos beat the Sydney Roosters in the Rugby League Grand Final and all of Queensland seems thrilled with this outcome.

Mon 28-Aug : Lazing about in Airlie Beach
We are still wrecked from our two-day driving marathon so we spend most of the day lazing about. We do book a sailing trip on a tall ship called the 'Solway Lass' departing tomorrow night around the Whitsunday Islands which should be fun.

Tue 29-Aug : Parasailing, Jet skiing, sailing
We are becoming more and more conventional in our tastes as time progresses, and today we go for the old seaside favourites of parasailing and mucking about on jet skis. The parasailing is great fun and involves being towed along by a speedboat while being suspended by a parachute about 50 m above the blue ocean. There is a fantastic view from up there and we get dunked in the water on our way back down to the boat for added refreshment.

The boys look happy as we go for lift off

The boys get dunked in the brine

We have no sooner recovered our breath from parasailing than we are let loose on a jet ski. This is like a motorbike on the water with a 900cc engine. It is thrilling to jump the waves and skim along at 50 mile per hour. Alan even gets to try his driving skills, and gets an unexpected swim for his troubles while I barely manage to cling on. Still, there was no harm done and we both got back to shore safe and sound.

There is a bizarre story on the news about a 1.8 metre cod at the Cairns fish market which was found to have a human head in its stomach when it was cut open for cleaning. This transpires to be the only remains of a trawlerman who fell overboard last week and is assumed to have been eaten by sharks, with the ambitious cod attempting to devour the leftovers. It is a scary reminder of the hazards of the deep and certainly puts cod in a new light.

In the evening we board the Solway Lass tall ship which is to be our home for the next three days along with 22 other wannabe sailors. This is a dramatic looking vessel which was built in 1902 and has worked all over the world under a variety of names since then (including a period as the "Adolf" for the German navy in WWI !!). It has reasonably comfortable cabins and a rigging that would have fitted in well on The Onedin Line. Most of our fellow sailors are a fantastic bunch, who are too numerous to mention in detail. We anchor in a quiet and dark island inlet for the night, which is excellent for stargazing when the light are quenched late at night. The Southern Cross, Milky Way and many shooting stars are clearly visible out here.

Wed 30-Aug : Deck Swinging, Whitehaven Beach, Swedish pop
I join many of the others in the thrilling and childish game of "Rope Swinging". This involves jumping from the deck railing while hanging on to a large knotted rope supported from the yardarm high in the rigging above. The victim swings out high above the water before dismounting for a graceful or painful dive into the clear ocean water.

After motoring around the Whitsunday Islands we are dropped for the afternoon on the stunningly picturesque Whitehaven Beach which has the finest whitest sand I have ever seen. Swimming, sunbaking and frisbee throwing make for a pleasant interlude. In many ways we can count ourselves lucky to have been able to swim at this beach; in one of natures cruel tricks, most of the beautiful tropical beaches of Queensland are un-swimmable during the summer months due to the swarms of deadly Box Jellyfish which infest the water. Thankfully, this is not a problem in August.

Our sumptuous dinner onboard is followed by drinking, cards and jokes (eg. Liam the 60-something from Victoria contributes "Everybody in my family is a singer, even the sewing machine") late into the night. There is a large contingent of young Swedes on board who provide a steady stream of Swedish dance music and accompanying dance moves. The current favourite would appear to be "Sore Klop" which is accompanied by pressing ones hands to the imaginary ceiling.

The happy sailors as seen from on high,I am the one falling overboard.

Thu 31-Aug : Snorkelling, Sailing the Wind
We go snorkelling from the ship today. The sea is initially quite rough and there is not that much to be seen in the line of coral, reef or fish. We try again closer to shore and are rewarded with pretty corals and playful fish and sea turtles.

In the afternoon the wind picks up so we finally get to sail the beautiful ship without the infernal rumbling of the engines. It is pretty hard work getting all 8 (or 9 ?) sails up but is lovely to see the sails full as we cruise along at a stately 5 knots to the sound of the bow cutting the waves.

Cap'n Pat imperils all aboard the Solway Lass

Fri 01-Sep : Rope Swing Contest, Back to Dry Land
The highlight of the last day at sea is the Rope Swing Contest, which is to be judged on three categories;
  1. Costume or lack thereof
  2. Swinging action and entry
  3. Screaming or verbal utterances
For top marks in the costume category, many male contenders go for a variety of female attire including dresses, one-piece swimsuits and bikinis stuffed with tennis balls. In the swing and entry action category there are a wide range of techniques, some of which seem particularly painful. In the scream or utterance category techniques vary widely; Liam screams "pog mo thon" which has to be translated for non-Gaelic listeners, Johnny from Armagh flies through the air in a borrowed green dress shouting "Does me arse look big in this ?" while I sing a very short version of "Swing Low, Sweet Chariot".

However, the clear winner on all counts has to the lovely Els from Holland. Not being a very strong swimmer, she gets her boyfriend Goerk (?) to swing first and wait fro her in the water with a flotation device. Then while flying through the air she screams "Goerk, will you marry me ?" to the amazement of boyfriend and the 30 onlookers. Goerk says YES and they are welcomed back onboard to thunderous applause.

After the high adrenalin of three days at sea, it is vaguely disappointing to be back on dry land, but most of us sea puppies meet up in mainland bars that light to relive the enjoyment of it all.

Solway Lass survivors live it up on dry land. Clockwise from right; Louise, Chris, Sam(antha), Swedish guy 1, Swedish guy 2, Kim, Pat, Liam. (photo courtesy of Louise Beard)

Sat 02-Sep : Fun Sail Race, Drive to Townsville
This is a big day in the Airlie Beach/Whitsundays social calendar, being the day of the annual Fun Race which features almost every boat in the area, all of which must display a real life and topless figurehead. Some of us Solway Lass sea puppies watch this from the boat club, but the action is too far out at sea for us to appreciate the racing or the figureheads.

It is with heavy hearts that Alan and myself must leave this happy event and press north along the shore, but we do have a deadline of getting Alan on an airplane from Cairns back to Ireland in a few days, so we must press on.

Kim from the Solway Lass had joked that she would probably pass our broken down car on the road to Cairns and her prediction is almost fulfilled within a few kilometres of leaving Airlie Beach when the Patmobile loses power and adopts and unhealthy engine note. A diversion to the local RACQ office rectifies the fault (a broken spark lead) and we proceed north to the city of Townsville where we stop for the night.

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