Australian Walkabout

West through Queensland Outback (18-22 Sep 2000)
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Last modified January 5th 2001


Mon 18 Sep : Townsville car repairs
The Patmobile continues to contribute to the Australian motor trade with today's bill being $100 to fix a badly leaking radiator. Weekday Townsville is seen to be a working city which I find a pleasant change from the touristy pushiness of Cairns.

Olympic News: Local swimming hero Ian Thorpe get beaten by Dutch Demon, Peter Van Den Hoogenband in the 100m freestyle; I guess they can't win them all.

Tue 19 Sep : More Townsville car repairs, climb Castle Hill
Today's contribution to Townsville's economy is to the tyre trade for replacement rubber; an essential requirement for the impending treck across the Outback. In the evening I climb the rocky outcrop of Castle Hill. This is thronged with joggers ad affords majestic views of Magnetic Island and the surrounding coastal plains.

Olympic News: The Aussie Men win the 4*200m freestyle swimming relay, and the country smiles again.

Wed 20 Sep : Rory arrives, West to Charters Towers
My prolonged but relaxing sojourn in Townsville ends today when I am joined by former Sydney work colleague Rory Somerset. He has raced up the coast from Sydney via a cowboy holiday in Tamworth; Yee Haa! We immediately hit the road west into the outback, getting as far as the former mining town of Charters Towers. I take the precaution of filling my Jerry can with petrol in preparation for the wilderness; more on this later.

Thu 21 Sep : Charters Towers to Cloncurry, Road Trains
My fuel Jerry can has proved less than brilliant, and Rory and I were almost asphyxiated with petrol fumes by the time we arrived in Charters Towers the previous evening. Much of the morning is spent trying to seal the defective cap utilising much insulating tape, cardboard, a Pokemon rubber ball and some latex leather articles normally reserved for another purpose! Let us see if it works?

After wasting the morning we have to move fast as we are booked on a mine tour in Mount Isa, 800km to the west at 7.30am tomorrow morning. During the day we pass many Road Trains. These are like regular trucks on steroids, with a huge prime mover followed by three trailers with a total length of 50m. They are to be treated with extreme caution by car drivers, and I am happy to follow the advice of moving completely off of the road to let them pass by.

As darkness falls we have only reached the town of Cloncurry, 125km short of Mt Isa. It is far too hazardous to continue with the kangaroos reclaiming the outback as the light fades. We camp in Cloncurry for the night; a new experience for me but a most pleasant change from hostels, as Rory shows off his culinary talents on a shellite stove under the stars of the southern sky.

King of the road. Road train carries 250 cattle and does 850 metres per litre (2.4 mpg)!

Fri 22 Sep : Mount Isa underground mine tour
We get up at 5.20am to get to Mt. Isa in time for our mine tour. The country looks serene in the changing colours of the dawn as we race west. Unfortunately, our plan of driving by daylight to avoid hitting the wildlife comes unstuck very soon as I plough into an already dead kangaroo lying in the middle of the road. There is quite a loud impact, but a quick inspection reveals that I do still have most of the required parts of a Ford Falcon

We arrive in Mount Isa with about two minutes to spare. Rory and I both notice an unsettling smell of burning flesh from our car. A later investigation locates a large chunk of kangaroo, cooked medium rare, clinging to one of the exhaust mufflers.

The underground mine tour is utterly fantastic for techno types like Rory and myself. This is a working lead/zinc/silver mine and there are elaborate safety procedures required before we enter. Our guide, Ernie Novak, takes us 1000 metres underground in the main lift shaft. As we descend, he opens some manholes in the floor of the cage, so that we can see the lights of the abyss racing up at us as we descend at speed. We reach the bottom in 90 seconds, which is an ear-popping experience.

The mine has mile after mile of tunnels at numerous levels which we explore in a 4WD jeep. Mining is still scary work down here amid the heat and dust, but modern equipment and methods have dramatically reduced miner numbers and improved safety. All the group are particularly impressed with the huge 'Tamrock' drilling rig. This multi-headed monster seems to move with the finesse of a surgeon in the skilled hands of the operator.

Beauty and the beast. Night and day in 'The Isa' (128 kB gif)

You're many miles from everywhere in Mount Isa

Our efforts at fixing the Jerry can have been utterly ineffective, with the various rubber articles being ill-suited to petrol containment. We empty the contents into the gas tank and strap the can to the roof, where it will be a fixture for the rest of the trip.


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