MAY 25, 2000 -- Sitting on the side of Tingo's main road, passing the time away with village kids, a minibus finally shows up heading in our direction. 45 km south is Leymebamba. The surrounding area is full of unexcavated ruins hidden in the thick landscape. But with the wet weather we've been having lately, the long muddy walk to some of these sites would not be worth the effort. In the small hospitable town of Leymebamba, there's a more than usual presence at the plaza and adjacent streets. Townsfolk gathering together to listen for news transmission of Peru's elections. A lot of anticipation in the air.

MAY 30, 2000 -- A morning bus leaves Leymebamba on a slow and winding but breathtaking ride to Celendin 6 hours west, crossing a wide and deep canyon of the Rio Maranon on the way. The next morning we hurry to catch a combi to Cajamarca (4 hours). At an altitude of 2750 m.a.s.l. the colonial city of Cajamarca is the commercial centre of Peru's northern mountain region. It is also the city known for the beginning of the end of the Inca Empire, following the ambush, capture and, ultimately, the execution of Atahualpa (the Inca king) by Pizarro and his band of merry conquistadors.

JUNE 1, 2000 -- We head west towards sea level on a morning bus to the coast then turning south at Pacasmayo along the Pacific front to the city of Trujillo.

Trujillo, with a population of almost a million people, is one of the 3 great oases (with Chiclayo and Piura) of northern Peru's desert strip. It's colonial centre surrounds the colorful Plaza de Armas and ringed by Avenida Espana, it's main access road.

We arrived in the confusion of Trujillo's late afternoon rush hour, but with the intense competition between numerous public transport services, flagging down a minibus to Huanchaco (20 mins west) was not a problem. This quiet fishing and surfing village will be a good spot for us to resupply and relax, and between commutes to and from Trujillo, we'll view some of the surrounding ancient Moche and Chimu ruins. As more tombs at principal Mochica (Moche) sites are discovered and studied, the added amount of information on the rise and fall of major pre-Inca societies grows along with their relations with each other which were, on the whole, very hostile.

JUNE 2, 2000 -- Halfway along the road from Huanchaco to Trujillo is the huge city remains of Chan Chan - once the principle centre of the Chimu society. After a brief visit to the museum, we walk along the side road to Tschudi Palace. The area surrounding us during the walk were filled with adobe mounds of what was once well-moulded dwellings occupied by god-fearing citizens that faithfully contributed to the agricultural wealth of the kingdom. Principal deities: Apo Catequil or Ni (sea god), symbols: Pelican, Fish, Sea Otter.

The Chimu Empire rose shortly after the collapse of the Moche around 800 AD. Besides the persistence of Moche rival groups, much of the collapse of the Moche is believed to have been caused by geological and meteorological changes. Ice measurements and rock samples from the Andean mountains have indicated a long drought around the 6th century AD lasting some 30 years followed by El Nino-type flooding. After approx. 600 years of occupation, and 11 years of constant battle with Inca forces, the Chimu surrendered and forfeited authority to Manco Capac, the Inca king.

A little further down the main road towards Trujillo is Huaca La Esmeralda. This temple is in the state of disrepair due to erosion but Chimu designs of fish, waves of the sea, fishing nets and seabirds can still be seen on the walls.

In better condition is the Huaca del Dragon (also known as 'Huaca Arco Iris'). 'Arco Iris' meaning 'rainbow' would be a better name. The moulded friezes all around the walls of this temple are covered with representations of the arc of the rainbow where the 7 individual colors are shown in high and low relief. It is said that rainbows during that time were dangerous omens, in particular the space under one; crops would fail, women would not conceive, ocean harvests diminish etc... Much of the Chimu artwork was influenced by their natural surroundings and the food sources that sustain their existence eg. rains, ocean, moon, fish, otters, manta rays, shellfish and seahorses etc... and as many ancient societies all around the world have witnessed and recorded over time a pattern or cycle reveals itself. Today, we call this cycle: seasons.

Along with the importance of natural indicators for predicting weather and ocean currents to ensure optimum advantage for harvests, so too was the stability of social structure. A few factors played roles in work motivation eg. in cultivation, food preparation, weaving, and construction. Work progress was made with the use of story-telling, music and chewing coca leaves to distract attention away from pain, discomfort, hunger, thirst and tire. And of course, to prevent any wayward creative thinkers making the mistake of aspiring towards individualism, there is religion imposed by warriors and priests (shamans) and overseen by the God King or Lord.

The next morning we head to the Mochica ruins a little out of Trujillo (southeast). Huacas del Sol y la Luna (Pyramids of the Sun and Moon) is the first site where original paint on the friezes can be seen. The most prominent figure seen features Ai Apaec (Destroyer/Decapitator). The site is still under excavation by university students.

Almost a month in Huanchaco where on each day we find ourselves becoming more familiar with the villagers and their daily routines. The morning buses rushing around the village picking up workers for the daily commute to Trujillo. The fishermen charge against the morning surf in their 'caballitos de totora' - little boats made of totora reeds like those painted on pre-columbian pottery. The street vendors ring their bells signalling that their carts are full of freshly baked bread rolls, cakes and cookies. The early morning swells lures surfers out of warm beds and into the cold sea water. A wetsuit is usually a must. We have our usual store, our usual bread vendor, the usual beach walk, the usual sunset, the usual night-time strollers, the usual fishermen returning with their usual catch, the usual friendly small talk with villagers with their usual good humour. Every day here is usually a good day.

JUNE 27, 2000 -- (7pm) We leave Huanchaco to catch a bus leaving leaving Trujillo at 9pm bound for Huaraz (10 hours inland). Into the mountains once more (3000 m.a.s.l.), Huaraz is a well-placed town with beautiful snow-capped surroundings (Cordillera Blanca). It is also the centre for foreign hikers and climbers, making goods and services here more expensive but up to standard. We take it a little easy for a couple of days to adjust to the change in altitude.

JULY 1, 2000 -- A short hike up to the Mirador for good views and a little exercise. 54 km north is Yungay Viejo - the site of what was once a populated township until May 1970 when an earthquake caused a massive avalanche totally burying the entire town and its 20 000 inhabitants. The whole area is now marked by flower gardens and has been consecrated as a cemetery. Evidence of huge rocks scattered around testifies to the scale of the devastation. From a pre-columbian standpoint we are on land that was once occupied by the Huari (Wari) Empire (700 - 1000 AD).

Sources of Further Reading-

Bawden, Garth. "The Moche: Peoples of America" 1997

Donnan, Christopher B. "The Pacatnamu Papers: The Moche Occupation" 1997

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