CHAPTER 3



Land Use Survey:
Analysis of the land use survey (See Figure 14 & Pages 31-33) shows that North Main Street is dominated by offices, particularly between Division Street and Locust Street.  The majority of the office space found above shops or restaurants was either associated with the business below or was unidentifiable.  The remaining office space was occupied by banks and other financial services, the medical and dental professions, lawyers, surveyors and real estate agents.  Residential buildings account for 22.5% of the land used and are mainly located on the east side of Main Street between Pine and Nelson Street.


[Figure 14: Land Use Survey Analysis: North Main Street, Cheboygan, MI.  Source: See Pages 31-33; Analysis: Author]
    

The majority of shops, restaurants and bars are found between Elm Street and West State Street.  There are seven units directly associated with tourism.  Six of the units are gift shops, whilst the seventh is a hotel.  All of the gift shops are located between Elm Street and West State Street, near the shops and restaurants.  There are four vacant lots along North Main Street, the largest being at the corner of Backus.  Recreational facilities are limited, with only the Kingston Cinema and a paintball suppliers located along the street.  Community buildings include the Post Office and the Chamber of Commerce Building.  Figure 15 shows a Thrift Store (B9), Gift Shop (F2) and Camera Store (B8) on the west side of North Main Street between Elm Street and Division Street.


LAND USE SURVEY


[Figure 15: West side of North Main Street between Elm Street and Division Streets.  Photo: Author]


The survey and the analysis also show that the majority of shops, bars and restaurants along North Main Street are located north of Elm Street.  Figure 16, taken on the corner of Backus looking south, shows a gift shop (F2) and a Delicatessen (C3) on the right.  The blue building on the left is a jewellery shop (B7).  South of Elm Street there are more residential and office buildings and fewer shops and restaurants.  The vast majority of offices in this part of North Main Street house professional or financial services.  This is in contrast to the offices north of Elm Street, which are predominantly associated with the businesses below.  


[Figure 16:  Looking South along N Main Street from Backus.  Photo: Author]


Historical Documents:
The information gained from Chamber of Commerce records, the local newspaper, Hare’s The Centennial History of Cheboygan County (Historical Society of Cheboygan County, 1996) and Cheboygan Centennial 1889-1989 (Olson & Turner, 1989) falls into two categories.  Firstly, through comparison with the land use survey, they have provided evidence of change on Main Street since 1850, when it was laid out, until the present day.  Secondly, the historical documents have provided clues as to how and why Cheboygan has developed in the way that it has and perhaps more interestingly, given an insight into how the people of Cheboygan felt about their city in the past.

Main Street
Main Street’s physical development started in 1850 when it was first laid out as shown in the 1851 Plat (See Figure 10).  Fifteen kerosene street lamps were erected in 1876, but Main Street remained a dirt road until 1886 when a Cedar block pavement was laid.  In 1926, Main Street was widened by narrowing the sidewalks and laying cement in the resulting gap (Turner, 2000; Trahan, 1999; Historical Society of Cheboygan, 1996).  Today, Main Street is being given a facelift and a Victorian Theme (See Figure 17).


[Figure 17: Main Street Redevelopment.  Photo: Author]


Hare’s history of Cheboygan County shows that there were approximately fifty businesses in and around Cheboygan Village in 1876 (Historical Society of Cheboygan County, 1996), although Hare’s figure excludes the 42 saloons that Turner (2000) suggests existed at the time. This omission may be because Hare was a clergyman.  Today, the Cheboygan Area Chamber of Commerce is supported by over 450 businesses.  Figure 18 shows the variety of businesses at the time of Cheboygan Village’s centenary in 1876 using evidence from several sources.

Category
No.of Businesses
Saloons
42
Shops
25
Other Mills
8
Professionals
6
Hotels
6
Lumber Mills
6
Real Estate Agents
4
Community Buildngs
3
Newspapers
1


[Figure 18:  Businesses in Cheboygan, circa. 1876.  After Historical Society of Cheboygan, 1996; Turner, 2000 & Olson & Turner, 1989]


Cheboygan’s first hotel was built in 1851 on Main Street.  By 1876, three more hotels, the Spencer, Heatherington and Ontario Houses, were located on Main Street (Historical Society of Cheboygan County, 1996; See Figure 19).  Today, none of these hotels survive and there is only one modern motel, located on the corner of North Main Street and US-23.  In the County as a whole there are now 30 lodging houses or hotels and 3 campgrounds.  The 25 shops in Cheboygan included 18 grocers, a baker, 2 drug stores, 2 hardware stores and 2 booksellers (Historical Society of Cheboygan County, 1996).  The land use survey shows that these types of shop are not found on the Main Street today.  Instead they are located at the out of town Malls and in some cases, have been replaced by large superstores such as Wal-Mart.

 
[Figure 19: The Spencer House Hotel Advertisement. Historical Society of Cheboygan County, 1996]


Fire has destroyed many buildings on Main Street, including JC Penny & Co at 313 North Main Street in 1975.  The Fashion Nook now stands in its place.  Other buildings that no longer exist on Main Street include the former Armoury and Gymnasium on Pine and Main Streets and the Telephone Building at the corner of Backus and Main Street, which is now Rivertown Cargo.  The Board of Education Offices on Main Street and Mackinaw Avenue, which were later converted to a cigar factory, have also been replaced (Turner, 2000; Trahan, 1999).  Some buildings have survived, however, particularly those from the 1920s and 1930s.  The Carnation Rest and the Loft, which was advertised in the Cheboygan Daily Tribune in 1926, can still be found on North Main Street today (Trahan, 1999; See Figure 20).  


[Figure 20: The Carnation & The Loft.  Source: Author]


Cheboygan River & Inland Waterways
The development of the Cheboygan River and the inland waterways has played an important part in Cheboygan’s history with Olson (in Olson & Turner, 1989) suggesting that it not only gave the city access to the outside world, but was also behind its growth and survival.  A canal and lock were built on the river in 1867 and its shallow depth was overcome by dredging in 1871 when it was widened and deepened to accommodate larger vessels.  In 1939, a turning basin was added near the river mouth to provide access for large lake vessels (Olson, in Olson & Turner, 1989).  Olson (n.d.) also notes the importance of the river in attracting industry to Cheboygan and suggests that the river’s clean water helped to bring papermaking to the city in 1903.  Lake fishing also created lots of work in Cheboygan and in the 1920s, the city shipped “thousands of tons of fish” (Olson & Turner, 1989: p15).  

Tourism
The importance of tourism to Cheboygan was noted in 1876, when Hare wrote to A M Gerow, MD (1876, in Historical Society of Cheboygan, 1996) for his opinion on Cheboygan as a health resort.  Gerow replied by suggesting that the climate was well suited for the relief of hay fever, consumption, asthma, bowel complaint and general debility and described Cheboygan as:

        “most delightful as well as the most healthful localities on the continent” (Gerow, ibid: p7)  

He also suggested that Cheboygan was well adapted for the:

        “overworked professional or businessman to recuperate his vital powers” (Gerow, ibid: p7)

Since then, Cheboygan has attempted to attract tourists or resorters to the area, although the emphasis has changed from health resort to fishing, boating, hunting and other outdoor pursuits.  The importance of tourism to Cheboygan after the decline of the lumber industry is shown by coverage in the local newspaper.  In 1936, the Cheboygan Daily Tribune not only reported “Resorters Arriving” (See Appendix 6), but that the “Beach & Park Signs Are Up” for “the convenience of Cheboygan’s summer visitors” (See Appendix 6).  In June 1939, a similar story ran about resorters coming from Leeland, Mississippi to “spend the summer at their home on Cuyler Street” (See Appendix 6).  In 1957, the opening of the Mackinac Bridge was seen as good news for the tourist industry (Trahan, 1999).  Winter sports were also important to Cheboygan and the 4 January 1960 edition of the Cheboygan Daily Tribune reported “New Camp Owners bring ski groups to Long Lake” (See Appendix 6).  In the same edition the effect of nearby tourist attractions was noted:

        “due to be of immeasurable importance to the Cheboygan County tourist industry, a 31 ft bronze statue of Christ was raised on the largest wooden cross at the Indian River Catholic Shrine and a program was began to rebuild the Mackinaw City fort” ( p1)

In the 1960s, Jane Minsky, the Chair of the Chamber of Commerce, described Cheboygan as “one of the most progressive and most advantageously located cities in the upper part of the lower peninsula” (Turner, 2000: p7).  She also noted that Cheboygan not only had a greater acreage of inland lakes than any other county in Michigan, but also hundreds of miles of trout streams (Turner, ibid).  Such statements were not only designed to attract tourists, but the growing number of people wanting to buy lakefront holiday cottages (Turner, 2000).  Today, tourism remains an important part of Cheboygan’s economy.  The Cheboygan Daily Tribune reported in 2001 that “this year’s tourist season in Cheboygan County appears to be as strong as that of 2000” (Adams, 2001: p1) despite the decline in manufacturing and automotive industries in the southern part of the State.

Interviews:
The information gained from the interviews can be compared to the literature review, the land use survey and the historical research results.  The local historian and former Mayor (See Appendix 7) identifies the major events that have effected Cheboygan and suggests how and why Cheboygan has changed, whilst the Executive Director of the Chamber of Commerce (See Appendix 8) and the City’s Chief Executive (See Appendix 9) provide a more contemporary perspective on change in the City.

The local historian identified the area’s rivers, lakes, and the potential for the lumbering industry as the reasons for Cheboygan’s initial settlement:

        “He settled on the Cheboygan River because in those days rivers and lakes were the major form of transportation”

        “This man brought his family to the area and then others and the area became more attractive for prospecting in the lumbering industry”


He also noted that the lumber industry’s success brought connected activities to Cheboygan, and eventually, the railroad:

        “It was a good time for the lumber industry and side industries grew up; like the wood working industries, shipbuilding industries and so on”

        “In 1904, the Detroit and Mackinac Railroad came to Cheboygan with the same prospect of taking advantage of the lumbering industry”


The dredging of the Cheboygan River was seen as essential to the city’s survival and later development.  The former mayor suggested that the growth of Cheboygan as a port took both trade and importance away from Duncan City and led to the diversification of industry away from lumber:

        “This brought people into Cheboygan and it became a service community”

The later decline of the lumber industry meant that tourism became increasingly important to Cheboygan and to the railroad companies.  One of the reasons for the growth of tourism in Cheboygan was that it already had the infrastructure and communications to support the new industry:

        “It was said that we had the freshest air in the world; the nicest climate in the world and this encouraged these people to move up here”

        “Cheboygan was already a Mecca for weekenders from the lumbering fields and they had hotels, more bars than you could care to imagine”


However, tourism was not the only reason for Cheboygan’s survival and growth.  The fact that it had good rail and ferry links south made it a service and agricultural centre for the northern Lower Peninsula:

        “The railroads would bring in supplies and Cheboygan was the centre of operations. People came to the city to buy provisions”

        “Cheboygan was the local agricultural centre, farmers would come into town to sell their grain and the railroads would haul their products out as well”


The importance of Cheboygan’s transport links and their effect on the tourist industry is also noted, particularly with reference to Interstate 75 and the Mackinac Bridge:

        “The northern part of the State and Mackinaw City were trying to attract people for the beauty and history of the area and of course, for the type of service we could provide these people by selling them land at very cheap prices to build homes on the lakes”

In terms of the Main Street, the local historian suggested that during World War 2, the shops were individual specialty businesses, which included grocers, a shoe store, a butchers and a dime store.   By the late 1980s, however, these had been replaced by K-Mart and a supermarket, located at an out of town mall.  Unable to compete with these larger shops, many of the Main Street businesses closed down:

        “… this caused some of the stores downtown to close down, and the property to be converted to some other utility.  Some were bought and converted to restaurants, others to dollar (thrift) stores, some to special types of clothing shop.  The movie theatre is still here and there was a donut shop.  The major hotel shut right down as did many of the bars.  A couple of hardware stores have survived, but they are chain stores, such as Ace Hardware”

The coming of K-Mart, and later Wal-Mart, has not necessarily been bad for Cheboygan and may have improved the local economy:

        “Now, we’re beginning to see new stores.  We have the book store down there now”

        “It affects our economy because the tax base has changed.  They pay more tax to support the community and they employ young people”

The local historian saw the recreational potential of the area as the greatest influence for change in Cheboygan today.  However, he was keen to differentiate between a recreational community and a place of recreation.  Cheboygan, he argued, remained a service centre with a diversified industrial base:

        “The greatest influence?  Well, I think it was that the people in the major cities have come up here and discovered our area as a place of recreation - we are not a recreational community - but as a place of recreation for themselves privately.  We are close to the major highways but we are isolated.  Some people built their homes way back and can’t be seen at all – they don’t want to be seen by anybody – and boating is a major recreation in Cheboygan”

Similarly, the Executive Director of the Chamber of Commerce (See Appendix 8) saw Cheboygan as a service community and not just a seasonal tourist town.  Big employers include the local hospital, Wal-Mart, Great Lakes Tissue and Cheboygan Cement.  Tourism is, however, an important part of Cheboygan’s economy:

        ·    Few of Cheboygan’s businesses closed during the winter and it was the County seat.  She described Cheboygan as a family community and pointed out that the major grocery stores were located in the City too.

        ·    People visiting Cheboygan tended to be campers, outdoor enthusiasts or interested in winter sports.


As for the future, Cheboygan may again be affected by its transport infrastructure and tourist potential.  A second airline using Pellston Regional Airport could mean increased and cheaper business travel, whilst the Casino planned for Vanderbilt (south of Indian River) will have a positive impact on Cheboygan hotels.  However, Cheboygan is not the only City in the north that benefits from good communications:

        ·    A Mall is being built in Gaylord.  This may have a negative affect on Cheboygan because Gaylord has access to Interstate 75.

The Chamber of Commerce is confident that Cheboygan will prosper and believes that it has many advantages, including low land prices and an attractive environment.  The Streetscape project in which the Main Street is being given a Victorian theme is one way in which Cheboygan is hoping to attract visitors, residents and businesses to Cheboygan:

        ·    Although many single people leave Cheboygan to find employment and to go to University, they come back to Cheboygan with their families to start businesses.  

        ·    NL described the Streetscape Project, which is designed to boost the City’s self-esteem and pride.  It is designed to attract new businesses and people to the area and involves the beautification of the Main Street as well as other projects.

The Cheboygan River and the lakes will also play an important roll in Cheboygan’s future success:

        ·    Cheboygan is also building a new marina to attract boaters to the area during the summer.  Leisure and tourism are growing areas of interest for Cheboygan, particularly Lighthouse tourism and Bois Blanc Island.

    The City of Cheboygan’s Chief Executive (See Appendix 9) also saw recreation and tourism as important to the city, with the river and lakes providing the main attraction:

        ·    Recreation is of growing importance to Cheboygan and a high priority.

        ·    People want to visit the rivers and lakes nearby.  


Cheboygan has responded to these demands by revitalising Main Street through infrastructure development and storefront renovation.  The street has been given a Victorian theme not only to attract visitors, but also to improve the quality of life in Cheboygan for its residents:

        ·    The aim is to make Cheboygan an even nicer place to live, improve the quality of life in the area and to attract business.

The City Manager was also aware of the importance of maintaining and improving the city’s recreational attractions to achieve these aims:

        ·    The City is improving recreational opportunities through the development of a marina and the building of a footbridge and walkways along the riverbank.  
    

The results from the land use survey, documentary research and interviews show that Cheboygan and the Main Street have changed since 1850.  In the past, a changing economy, fire and the growth of the out of town malls influenced the change along Main Street.  Today, Main Street is being renovated to meet the demands of the tourist industry and to attract new business to the area.  The key themes identified as reasons for change in Cheboygan were the lumber industry, rail and road communications and the tourism potential of the area.  Behind all of these, however, were the Cheboygan River and the system of inland waterways, which provided the initial reason for settlement, power for the lumber industry’s sawmills, a means of transportation and more recently, tourist activities such as fishing and boating.


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