I could have walked eastwards to see the castle at Frangokastello, but my legs were quite stiff after my long walk. So instead I tried to see if I could get a bus to Chora Sfakion, which is further west along the coast. I went into a supermarket I had noticed the previous day but they had no idea about buses. I walked along the road to where it joined a larger road, and then I saw a garage. I asked someone about buses, but when I heard him mention the word 'taxi' I thought that would be the best option.

Buses are in fact quite infrequent along this road. A timetable is given in 'Western Crete' by Jonnie Godfrey and Elizabeth Karslake.

There were several men sitting around the garage and one told me he could take me for 12 Euro. I got into his car and he drove quite fast along the coastal road. He was friendly and we could converse although he could not speak English. It did not take long before we pulled up in the big car park at Chora Sfakion.

There is a main road which joins the north of Crete to Chora Sfakion, but towns to the west of here have no roads in or out and can only be reached by ferry or on foot. There is no coastal plain and the mountains come down to the sea.

The towns are long and narrow, fitting in the narrow space between mountain and sea. There are shops, restaurants and places to stay.

Loutro is the next town along, and I decided I would stay here while I was on the south coast. Rooms can be found for 15 Euro in May but the nicer ones are more expensive. Mine was a good compromise at 18 Euro. It was on the first floor and had a shared balcony with a table, chairs and a parasol.

I could see a lemon tree and a banana, and several grape vines often covering pergolas. The buildings are white-washed often with blue-painted shutters on the windows. All I had to do to get to the beach was walk down the steps and along a little alleyway. pictures

The beach is in the middle of the town, and people swim and sunbathe. Sunbeds are available. The ferry comes up onto the beach when it doesn't have any vehicles. pictures The restaurants are usually right next to the sea; you can sit with the beautifully clear sea a few feet below you. There is a rocky headland and I sat for a while on the rocks and had a swim.

The next morning I went to one of the restaurants for a breakfast of yoghurt and honey and freshly-squeezed orange juice. I bought a ticket for the ferry to Agia Roumelli, the next town along.

Many people dislike Agia Roumelli, but I quite like it. There are many new buildings, but they are built in the local style and quite attractive. From here I walked up the Samaria Gorge, as far as the Iron Gates which is the narrowest point. pictures It was not a hard walk, but there were many people there. I often had to stop to let people pass as the path can be quite narrow. I had decided to start my journey up the gorge soon after I got to the town, and I think most people had the same idea. So I probably encountered more people than I would have done if I had explored the town before setting off.

Just above the Iron Gates is a little pine wood where I sat and rested for a time before returning. The shade and the breeze meant that is was pleasantly cool. For people walking down the length of the gorge (it takes all day) it must be more of an ordeal. It costs 3 Euro 50 to enter the gorge; keep your ticket as they check people leaving to see that everyone gets out safely each day.

While waiting for the ferry back to Loutro I swam in the sea. With goggles you can see the sea bed below you and colourful fish.

The next day I took the ferry to Chora Sfakion. I took the bus to the village of Imbros on the main road to the north coast. It is quite scary as the coach goes up the steep slope in a series of hairpin bends. If you sit on the right-hand side of the coach you get the best views, including the Imbros Gorge from above. Not the left side as recommended in 'Western Crete' by Jonnie Godfrey and Elizabeth Karslake.

You can walk through Imbros to get to the beginning of the Imbros Gorge or you can walk a little way south along the main road to a taverna which has a big sign saying here is the entrance to the gorge. They had Sfakian pie here, which I had heard about but not tried. It is like a pancake filled with cheese and covered in honey. You can't really taste the cheese. I liked it.

The Imbros Gorge is less well known than the Samaria Gorge and much less crowded. I liked it better. Parts of it are narrower than the Iron Gates and continue for a longer distance. It costs 2 Euro to get in.

I had hoped to get a bus from the bottom of the gorge back to Chora Sfakion, but I think I just missed that. I could probably have got a taxi, but I decided to walk along the road to where it joins the main road from the north coast. There is a taverna here, and I asked about buses, but was told I was probably too late. I was offered a ride for 5 Euro in a pick-up truck, and before long (they drive very fast) I was back in Chora Sfakion. When I got back to Loutro I swam for a while near the little beach. I had a shower and went for something to eat. It is so nice when the beach, the accommodation and places to eat are minutes from each other.

I got up at dawn the next day and tried to find the path up the steep slope to the other side of the headland. At the top there a flat area with many goats. It is a rocky barren place with many thyme plants and what looked like olive trees but on closer inspection turned out to be carob trees. Walking downhill I came to a bay and the few buildings that compose Finix ( Phoenix ). picture

I wanted to walk a different way back to Loutro, and there is a path around the headland. It is not easy to find the beginning of it; I was clambering over rocks. Close to Loutro is a ruined building high above the sea on the headland.

After my usual yoghurt, honey and orange juice it was time to take the ferry to Chora Sfakion and the bus back to the north coast. For the last time I observed the coast from the ferry. Sweetwater Bay did not look as inviting as I had expected, but the Ilingas Gorge near to Chora Sfakion did. Perhaps one day.

I got off the bus at Vrysses. There is a river running through it and a nice looking taverna just next to the river. Another bus and I was back in Georgioupolis.