| Twice Around by Hilton Purvis and Loretta Jakubiec ©1999 Vancouver, London, Hong Kong, New York, Boston, Seattle, New Orleans, San Francisco, Disneyworld, the U.S. national parks, and more. Hilton Purvis and Loretta Jakubiec traveled extensively during June and July of 1996, and July and August of 1998. We thank them for providing such a thorough report that offers helpful critiques of several airlines and details the names, addresses, and phone numbers of their accommodations. We find that the pleasure of travelling, visiting new places, eating new foods, etc. far outweighs any of the difficulties encountered along the way. We hope our experiences will show others that it needn't be too scary. Hilton is permanently confined to a wheelchair, thereby adding a different dimension to our transport and accommodation arrangements. Suddenly the London Underground becomes a non-event, the condition of sidewalks important, the Boston Metro a nightmare, a rental car's boot more important than its air conditioner, boardwalks are seen as one of mankind's better inventions, Disney World's transportation system becomes the standard by which all others are measured, and USA legislation stipulating that all buildings, public places and spaces must be fully wheelchair accessible by 1997 is like regulation from heaven! We follows are our successes, which there were many, and failures, which are fortunately few. In determining "accessibility" we must point out that Hilton is very lightweight (40-odd kg's + chair), and his wheelchair is very narrow (only approx. 55cm overall). These are important considerations since it means that we can often get places, which other wheelchairs cannot. The odd step, or couple of steps, is, therefore, not a serious problem. If one is large, or heavy, or using a power wheelchair then it would be a different matter. We have, for the purposes of this document only assessed accessibility for wheelchairs, and not for visually or hearing impaired people . 1996 Airlines United Airlines had excellent service, including a complimentary magnum of champagne on the flight to Denver! No problems with check-ins, baggage handling, loading of wheelchair (domestic flights are generally not able to accommodate the chair inside the aircraft). The option to check-in luggage at the taxi drop-off apron is a time-saver and helps to minimise the amount of luggage within the airport complex. Car hire Alamo gave excellent service. A "Mercury Sable" in Boston, "Toyota Camry" in Yellowstone, and a "KIA" in California, all in tip-top condition. Some "bonus" assistance in the form of complimentary rides to the airport hotel in Boston (saved us having to unload and use a bus), and to the airport in San Francisco (as above). Walt Disney World (Orlando, FL)
Boston, MA
Grand Tetons National Park Boulder, CO Boise San Francisco, CA and the West Coast San Diego, CA Sequoia National Park, CA Yosemite National Park, CA
Orlando, FL London, U.K. Pollution Resources With Hilton confined to a wheelchair, we naturally contacted every disabled tourist body we could find. Sadly the response from these organisations was the exact opposite to the CVB's. We wrote to nine organisations, and to date we have only received one reply, a rather poor one at that, from SATH. We have listed those organisations, which did not respond to our requests for your interest. Under normal circumstances, we would not be concerned about their lack of response, but following the tremendous response from the other "non-disabled orientated" bodies they tend to stand out rather badly. Wings on Wheels 4114 198th Street, SW Suite 13 Lynnwood, WA 98036
U.S.A. Lessons learned in 1996 1998 Hong Kong The new Chep Lap Kok airport was perfectly accessible, as was the train to downtown HK. The city buses are not accessible, and nor are the cabs. Hong Kong is not easy to get around in a wheelchair, and it is not aided by the strange designs of the overhead walkways. The walkways will have a beautiful ramp on one side of the road, and a flight of stairs on the other! One at the Star Ferry terminal had a ramp on each side, but three stairs in the middle! The idea is there, but the execution is flawed (much like the USA National Park Service, we refer to later). We were surprised to find that many of the modern shopping arcades on the West side of Kowloon were not generally accessible. Individual stores in Kowloon are not so great for access with lots of steps up and down at their entrances. The lack of access is countered by a willingness on the part of the public in general to assist. Seattle, WA
Vancouver, Canada Vancouver is a very accessible city with beautiful paved walkways throughout the harbours and inlets. Stanley Park is fully accessible with a brilliant, level, paved walkway running around its circumference (approx. 14km's) and numerous others criss-crossing its interior. Worthy of a visit in its own right! Grouse Mountain offers very limited access (to the 1st cable station level), and Capilano Suspension Bridge also offers limited access (to one side of the bridge only). It appears that if the entrance fee to sights is reduced (as with Grouse and Capilano) or waived then access is limited. Victoria, Canada Used the British Columbia Ferry, who allow one to park opposite the lift, and have accessible toilets on board. Victoria is reasonably accessible around the harbour area. An interesting town, very busy in summer. Kalispell/Glacier National Park The Glacier entrance gate visitors centre is fully accessible. The park's access is limited for wheelchairs (no paved trails or boardwalks,) but there is lots to see from the vehicle or turn-outs. Las Vegas, NV The Strip is very accessible (almost on par with Disney), as are all the hotels and resorts along it. Some even provide lowered blackjack tables in their casino's (brilliant!). The bus service down The Strip (operating every 15-20 minutes during the day) is fully accessible and the drivers very helpful. Zion National Park, UT NOTE : Refer to comments later on National Park Service access. Beautiful views, stunning at sunset, "The Narrows" a must see. Zion National Park was probably the best of our 5 Utah parks for trails, but their "accessible trails" are not. They have steps, steep gradients, and water channels along them. Bryce Canyon National Park, UT "Inspiration Point" probably one of the most amazing sights we have ever seen! Bryce Canyon National Park was the most frustrating of the 5 parks, with most of their viewing points perfectly accessible (even with their own disabled parking bays), but with 6" (15cm) thick wood log handrails and stone pillars completely blocking the views! A very frustrating park, because with little effort and money they could offer so much more. Canyonlands National Park Dead Horse Point State Park offered good viewing, though somewhat limited. Canyonlands National Park was quite limited for wheelchairs. Arches National Park
Returned (after 1996) to do the boardwalk trail (West side) and walk around Sprague Lake. Very accessible and worth the visit. Park offers dramatic sights (high mountains, deep valleys, fir forests, mountain lakes, snow & ice). Much like Glacier National Park. Boulder, CO New Orleans, LA Only visited the French Quarter. Not very accessible, pavements in very bad condition, narrow, pot-holed, rough, shops old and small, crowded, old fashioned doorways, etc. Interesting and quaint by day, really seedy by night. The only time we saw people openly drinking alcohol in the streets in the USA. Orlando, FL WDW was its usual excellently accessible self and really show how things can be, and should be, done. Animal Kingdom (newly opened) up to their usually high standard. Still find it strange, however, that they don't build uni-sex disabled restrooms? London, U.K. New Airport Express transport system excellent, but expensive. New shape cabs much improved, more roomy and accessible. The Imperial War Museum offers shocking access with us having to enter through a back door! War veterans are treated worse, having to suffer the humiliation of having to pay to enter! Incredible! The South Bank walkways (supposedly inter-linked) are inconsistent and often completely inaccessible. There is no wheelchair access to Tower Bridge. The Tower of London is likewise a no-no. Ferries from Westminster Pier to Kew Gardens, Hampton Court, and Greenwich are also inconsistent, often with only one accessible ferry departing each day (how one is supposed to return is anybody’s guess!). The V&A Museum is much improved, and a pleasure to tour through, with keen and helpful staff and security. The British Museum was under re-construction, but the access was still good, with us being offered lunch in the staff lounge. Hyde, Regents, and St.James's Parks are always good. The Regent’s Canal walkway is inconsistent and not really accessible. Car Hire It later transpired that Hong Kong had not released our credit card booking amount (which blocked the card). Booking systems are geared towards one booking for, and paying via, credit cards. If one changes that routine, they get in a tangle. We learnt our lesson early (fortunately), but even when we later specifically requested the car hire and/or motels to cancel the credit card billing once we had paid by travellers cheque they didn't fully understand the implications. Alamo in Denver could not see why there would be a problem if it took a couple of days to go through! It seems that wherever possible one should go the full credit card route (i.e. book and pay for), but one then has to question the role of travellers cheques. AMTRAK All inquiries, reservations, and payment for our Amtrak trip (from Seattle to Whitefish) was done over the Internet. No problems, printed out the reservation confirmation page (with its number), handed it in at the station, and the tickets were waiting. The accessible coach was confined but comfortable, the three-course supper was delicious, and the service was informative and helpful. We wouldn't recommend more than a one day trip because of the confines of the coach (can't move through the train). South African Airways SAA were tolerable. Despite written promises of requested service before the HK flight, they delivered on none of them. Their planes were comfortable and clean, helped by the fact that they were almost empty on the return journey from London. United Airlines Delta Airlines Eating We avoid hamburgers, hot dogs, etc during our travels. Partly because we don't like that style of food, but more importantly because it gives one no energy. Gooey doughnuts offer a sweet start to the day at motels but they slow one down in the long run. We therefore look out for light, tasty local foods, with lots of vegetables. Hong Kong eating is interesting and varied, if you're prepared to try the local dishes. Dim sum is a must for breakfast or brunch. Seattle is great for chowders, seafood and, of course, latte's. Vancouver and Victoria eating offers lots of noodles and veggies through their Asian restaurants. The central U.S. is more steak & french fries, but we dug up a couple of Chinese and Mexican restaurants. New Orleans offers a huge variety of local dishes, with us tucking into their jambalaya's, gumbo's, beans, bainaits, po-boy's, and muffalatta's. London is expensive for South Africans (on an exchange rate of over 10-to-1). We opted to eat cheaply, choosing the traditional fish 'n chips, Marks & Spencer’s take-outs, and "The Stockpot" diner (offering good wholesome meat and vegetables). Comments We saw massive abuse of disabled facilities in the USA by able-bodied and overweight Americans, all with their legal hangers and stickers. It is both frustrating and sad. What was most saddening was that the abusers were almost always in the 55+ age group and appeared to believe (judging by their comments) that it was their right to use such facilities. We understand that not all disabilities are as "obvious" as being wheelchair bound, but after 38 years of disability, 25 of which has been spent in a wheelchair, Hilton is able to accurately assess a persons capabilities. In many of our encounters one did not have to be a rocket scientist to assess that the abusers were very sprightly indeed as they scampered off to do the hiking trails! In six weeks of travel in 1998, we only saw one genuinely disabled person using a parking bay (an elderly lady in a power chair in Arches National Park), and only saw one other disabled person (a guy and his family at Sprague Lake in Rocky Mountain National Park). Where is everyone? The USA is arguably the most wheelchair accessible country in the world and yet there is no-one to be seen, even in mid-summer…. Tourists from outside of the USA will find it difficult to legally use disabled parking facilities as one can only apply from within the USA, and it takes a minimum of two weeks to issue one, which will only cover only the city in which you apply (as per the San Diego Traffic Dept.). There appears to be no "blanket" application for foreign tourists. One can take a chance and use your own domestic hanger, but it is no guarantee of success. The National Park Service will issue a parking sticker for their individual park, but one would have to ask for another at each separate park. National Park Service Access The national parks suffer from a common problem of being very willing and interested in providing accessible facilities, but not designing or building them correctly, or not actually testing them out (in the case of trails and viewing areas). This was particularly noticeable in Bryce Canyon where they have constructed excellent turn-out areas throughout the park, paved, ramped, and each with its own disabled parking bay. But then they have built a handrail of thick wooden logs and stone pillars, the top of which is located at seated eye level. The only view which Hilton was able to see in Bryce was "Inspiration Point," only because we took the wheelchair cross-country through the bush to the edge of the canyon . . . neither safe, nor sanctioned by the park. It was also evident in Zion and Arches where trails were specifically designated as being accessible, but clearly they are not, having water channels, steps, and very steep gradients at various points along the paths. What is frustrating is that to prevent these situations from occurring does not require rocket science. All it takes is for the park to rent or loan a manual wheelchair from a medical supply company for one day, put an average strength park ranger in it, and ask them to wheel the trail, or view the sights. The hassles will quickly be identified and can be solved immediately. Lessons learned from 1998 Here is our list names, addresses, contact numbers we used, and costs for each stop. All the major car rental companies have very good web sites, as do each of the US states CVB's. A search in Yahoo! will bring all of these up. It is interesting (and worthwhile) noting that booking via the Internet is preferable for car hire, Amtrak and WDW. Their booking infrastructures appear to be geared to the Net. Faxing them does not always work (as we experienced with Amtrak and WDW particularly). Hong Kong Seattle, WA Vancouver, Canada AMTRAK Glacier National Park (Montana) Las Vegas, NV Utah Bryce Canyon National Park, UT Canyonlands National Park & Arches National Park, UT Colorado New Orleans, LA Orlando (Walt Disney World), FL London, U.K. Orlando, FL Yours faithfully, Hilton Purvis & Loretta Jakubiec
Global Access Disabled Travel
Network |
Washington, D.C.
New York City, NY
Yellowstone National Park
San Francisco, CA
Accommodation: London School Of Economics, High Holborn.
Excellent budget lodging, clean, simple, perfectly positioned for walking. Again, we did a
lot of walking, and although the city is old the terrain is flat and the sidewalks are in
reasonable condition. We caught a ferry to Greenwich,
an express train to Cambridge and to Reading. We were able to use the cabs (taxi's)
without having to get out of the wheelchair due to the high roofline. We visited the Victoria and&Albert and British
Museums, Westminster, St Paul’s,
Harrods, Hamley’s, and a number of the public parks. 
The roads in the CBD area are reminiscent of San Francisco, very steep with
flat tops. This is something of a challenge to the wheelchair, but is aided by lifts
between some of the road levels and the "waterfront" level. The monorail only
operates between downtown and the Space Needle so it's pretty useless for transport. The
waterfront area is great to walk along, see the harbour and enjoy leisurely evening
dinners and daytime latte's. The Argosy Harbour Cruise
is accessible, and worthwhile. 
Rocky Mountain National Park, CO