Day 14 Sunday, August 31, 2003

Berea, Kentucky to Perryville, Kentucky

Late start. Continental breakfast at motel. Began the TAT. Got one last picture of me by one of those hands. A lady in a passing car obliged a photo.

I am now using the special TAT maps. It’s taking some adjustment to use them and I’m not sure if I like them yet.

Saw my first “semi-dead” roadkill today. Thought it was a dead possum by the side of the road and then I thought I saw it move. Then I realized the creature was trying to stand up, but his skull was bloody and he looked completely blank as he pathetically kept trying to right himself. If I had a gun I would have put it out of its misery. This haunted me for many miles.

The terrain is quite different from yesterday. Cone-like mountains flanking a winding road yesterday, with rain and large sprawling pockets of fog running through the cones. Today, partly sunny, rolling hills, like a moderate size roller coaster! Rather fun actually. Talked to some cows wallowing in a muddy creek. Said, “Hello boys... gonna be a hot one today... takin’ it easy are ya?”

A bike rider from Berea pulled up alongside me and rode with me about a mile. He was just out for a Sunday morning ride. Riding through backroads towards Bryantsville, KY. Missed a turnoff for Jack Turner Road - distracted by another bike-chasin’ dog. Went 2 miles out of the way before realizing. So, of course, another 2 miles back and deal with the dog AGAIN! Map said there was a grocery store at about the 18 mile mark. When I go got there I was starving and found the store closed. NOT OPEN ON SUNDAY!!! ARGHHH!

Next town 12 miles away. Lunch in Bryantsville convenience store. Kid behind the counter is gonna bike to Williamsburg with his buddy next summer. He is John Michael Montgomery’s cousin. (Autographed photos on wall made me inquire.) He used to live around here before hitting it big. Also chatted with a cockfighting supplier. Guy comes to Kentucky to buy roosters for $50 apiece and sells them in Mexico for $500. Stopped at a marina by Harrington Lake for a swim to cool off in the hot afternoon.

Rode another 14 miles to Harrodsburg, KY, where I finally found a post office. The first one I passed in 48 miles. As I write this, I am under an awning outside a music store in “downtown” Harrodsburg, seeking refuge from a tremendous thunderstorm! Thunder and lightning all around me. When it passes, I’m gonna try and go 17 more miles to Springfield, KY.

Just spoke to “Bobby” a retired postal worker who told me he sees one or two bikers a day come through here lately, so I’m bound to catch up to someone soon. When he worked there, many a biker would get general delivery mail sent there. The guy talked my ear off and gave me 5 different routes to Springfield and by the time he was done I was totally confused... decided to trust my map.

It is now 10:40 PM and I am camping tonight in a cemetery in Perryville, KY. Seems like an appropriate ending to a basically crappy day.
63.93 miles. 5 hrs. 32 min. 906.1 total miles.
But the daily totals don’t really reflect the day. I actually only moved about 42 miles west. 4 miles missing a turn, but 16 or so on the TAT meandering. Just not sure if it was worth the extra effort. I am pedaling 20% more to go the same distance, so I can see 20% more cows, horses and sheep??? The one plus on the day is passing the 900 mile mark!

So here I am writing from a tent set between the tombstones of Funk and Harmon. (Tombstone names: Durward & Nora Lee Funk - Died in the 80's. Henry & Annie Harmon - Died in the 50's.) It is thundering and lightning too, but I have a certain sense of peace right now. I’m warm, dry, and comfortable with a flashlight suspended from the top of the tent, so I can see what I’m writing.

The maps are being studied and I will definitely visit Abraham Lincoln’s birthplace tomorrow. Partial deviation from the TAT, to be rejoined near Hodgeville, KY.

Dinner was at a roadside store in Perryville, KY. Three sixth grade boys were giggling and being sixth graders at the next table. The owner told them to settle down in my honor. “Let the man eat dinner in peace, he’s been riding in the rain!”
I politely overrode her and said, “It doesn’t bother me. They’re having a good time, let them laugh.” After dinner, the three of the boys were sitting on their bikes outside and asking me questions. Each answer produced jaw dropping awe and more questions. What’s the fastest you’ve gone? Did you ever do a wheelie on the bike? I told them about Ryan and the ramps in the driveway back home and his biking videos.

Well, the thunder seems to have stopped. Just the pitter-patter of rain on the roof now. Hope it ends by morning...

Next Day