Pilot Knob, Missouri to Eminence, Missouri
I awoke this morning around 7:30 and I got out of the tent and washed my face from a spigot near the deck. Coming across the lawn were Walt and Domi Spitzmiller smiling, wishing me good morning and they brought me breakfast! A huge cup of hot coffee on a sun drenched deck overlooking a misty pond. Wow! These folks were so good to me!
We talked on the deck for at least an hour while I slowly packed up the bike. I met their son, Jacob and Dexter, their cocker spaniel. We talked about the video rental business, local Civil War history, the derivation of Pilot Knob - Mississippi boat captains supposedly used a hill nearby for navigation purposes, but the Mississippi is 50 miles away so Walt was skeptical, as was I. Taum Sauk, the highest point in Missouri was about 5 miles south - elevation, a staggering 1772 ft!
I told them of my middle-of-the-night experience, with the stars and the glowing American flag. and how unforgettable that was. I said goodbye and thanked them for their kindness.
Headed to the post office. It was a little out of the way and as I passed their property from the highway, I just had to take a picture. This notion of one picture a day is starting to seem stupid, so I’m going to abandon it from now on. If I want to take a picture, I’ll take a picture. What was I thinking?
I’m stopped at Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park right now on highway “N”. I’m wondering about the curious name of this park, but nobody to ask. Half the homes I pass have a sign planted on their front lawn saying that they believe in the 10 commandments. The ride is fairly flat and great weather.
When you fly over this country in a plane, you are looking at a quilt of farms and towns, but to really get a feel for what the fiber of this country is made of, you have to take it slow - even crossing the country on the interstates doesn’t quite do it. I almost feel that taking a really slow ride across this country NOT using Interstates should be a requirement for citizenship. Like the Simon and Garfunkel song -”we should all come to look for America!” It’s out here and once you find it, this country will never feel the same.
Making my way to Centerville, I passed a car and motorcycle parked on the side of the road. A woman called out a question about Taum Sauk and I pulled over to stop and talk. It was Liz, Randy, and their nephew, Bernie - the Davenports from Kansas City. They were out touring Missouri. Bernie offered me some ice cold water - quite a rarity for me. They were intrigued by my trip and very enthusiastic. They offered me gum, peanuts, and pumpkin seeds to take with me. Bernie took a picture of Randy, Liz, and me. We’re at the junction of Routes 21, 72, 49, and J. We exchanged emails and I gave them my website so they could track my progress. TRAIL MAGIC - I call it! These total strangers offering encouragement, enthusiasm, and cold water! What a boost! Thanks!
I’m really getting into the Ozarks now. Lunch buffet in Ellington and then 27 miles through NO SERVICES. But a motel on the other side. Take me to the other side!!
The last 27 miles were brutal - the Ozarks won! They kicked my ass. Some long climbs of a mile here and there. Used my lowest gear about 5 times. Several rollercoaster miles which actually were fun. You pedal as fast and hard as you can and you just keep making it to the crest of the next hill, then repeat the process. Had one mile and a half downhill. Hit 45 mph once, downhill. Made up for the 3.8 mph uphill. Scenic and mountainous.
The harassment Steve and Laura told me about, didn’t happen. And Walt told me this morning that there are some bad asses between Ellington and Houston, too. Maybe tomorrow they will plague me.
So I land in Eminence, MO at 6:30 and am stopped t the main intersection in town and pulled out my TAT trail notes about motel choices and Shannon Ennis started talkin’ to me. He was nice and told me where the motels were. He wanted to talk and I was so exhausted from the last 27 miles, I just wanted a shower and a beer. Well, I landed in a non-dry town but this town turned out to be a little “light” on something else... TELEPHONES in the motel rooms - NONE of them had them! Four motels - no phones in the rooms - Is this 2003 or 1903??
Shannon told me I can access the Internet at the VFW Lodge and gave me a sweet pepper from his garden. Ended up at the Riverside Motel. The woman at the desk said she has three lines into the place and I could use her cordless in my room if I use a phone card. Sounds good.
This is one tired Ozark Mountain daredevil. Good night.
72.27 miles. 6 hrs. 2 min. 1420.5 total miles.