Ordway, Colorado to Walsenburg, Colorado
Back to Bits & Spurs Cafe on Main Street in Ordway. Miss National Little Britches Queen is my morning waitress, too! Took a few quick photos of the town. One last stop at post office. Hey more mail! And I mailed stuff home. Will be leaving Ordway with more weight than I started. Rocky Ford, CO to Walsenburg on Route 10 is a 63 mile stretch of nothing. Loaded up with a gallon of Gatorade, a gallon of water, and lots of food. Let’s see how it goes. Weather seems spectacular! Dove isn’t in school today because they only have school 4 days a week here. School until 4 PM though.
On the walls in many cafes, including this one, you find displays of all the area ranchers brands - they are kind of like “tags” as they say back east. Wth all the cattle roaming the land out here it pays to know all the brands of your neighbors cattle in case one gets loose!
Farewell to Dove and Ordway! Headed south on Colorado 71. Two towns over the next 18 miles, then 63 miles of nothing. Saying “nothing” turned out to be a mistake because pedaling through the west with The Rocky Mountains in front of you on a spectacular, cool, sunny day, is hardly nothing.
Three miles into the day, I stopped to take a picture of some ranchers who had just driven their herd across the road to alternate grazing land. I stopped to talk to them and since I saw the cattle eating, I wondered how bad the drought could be. They said their herd was down to a third of what it normally would be. There were about 5 ranchers and only little cowboy - a 6 year old who was “learning the ropes.’
Soon after, I caught my first glimpse of the Rockies Now I’m starting to feel like I’m out west! Surprisingly the terrain felt exactly like Northern Arizona. THE WEST IS BEST! THE WEST IS BEST!
As I rode through the day, without passing through any towns to break up the trip, the mountains were my only entertainment. That, plus the one shade tree along Colorado Highway 10, which was decorated with Christmas ornaments , big plastic candy canes, and garland beads. The shade it provided was my “roadside cafe.” It had warmed up to about 80° by then and all the layers of warm clothes, I started out with, were now strapped on to the bike.
As I rode through the afternoon, it felt like a 10 mile stretch of steps that kept going up, but the last 20 miles down into Walsenburg, CO seemed to be mostly downhill. I was surprised to find the elevation of Walsenburg to be 6500 ft. I had gained 2000 ft. during the day’s ride.
Totals for the day: 84.45 miles, 6 hrs. 2 min., 2353.6 total miles
For 60 miles the mountains loomed in the distance. After 5 hours of pedaling, they only seemed a slight bit closer, but during the last hour, many more peaks and ranges appeared behind the two dominant ones. I wondered if one of the peaks behind was Pike’s Peak. Later on it was confirmed that it was.
Rolling into Walsenburg, CO, I passed under I-25 and then hit civilization again. Almost hard to believe so much land between towns - so unlike back east. As I arrived, I saw a park with big canopy tents and a hundred people milling around. Turned out it was a local bank celebrating its 100th anniversary and they were sponsoring a free cookout for the town! Hamburgers, salads, and best of all, unlimited watermelon and cantaloupe! I think I personally ate 2 cantaloupes and half a watermelon. When I stock up on food I usually buy one banana or one apple or peach. I always eye the watermelon and other larger fruit but pass. So now I had an endless supply for free. I met the bank president (forgot his name). He told me the watermelons came from Rocky Ford, CO (which I passed through earlier) and he said they are the best in the world!
I also met Will Bechaver and we talked for a while. He was very friendly and helpful. He owns the Blue Rooster Saloon and also edits and publishes the Catholic church bulletins. He’s a native of Walsenburg - grew up with both sets of grandparents in the same town. Has traveled the USA extensively and lived all over the place, including Philly. We got to talking about back roads vs. interstates and he told me Eisenhower said, “The Interstate system is the best way to drive across the country and not see anything.” I so, agree with that!
Will offered me use of the computer in the rectory of the Catholic church. He a night owl and spends the night working there or checking in on his saloon business. I told him I’d had a few things to do and I’d meet him later at the saloon or the rectory.
Made some phone calls, changed, and looked for a camping spot. Found Will at his Blue Rooster Saloon. He has an Alice’s Restaurant naming kind of story that he’s going to send me. Had a couple of draws (as they say, instead of draughts). Helen Bobian was the bartender and her brother, her nephew, Will and Gonzo were my companions. The Bobians are seismologists.. They work exploring for oil all over the western half of the country - interesting work.
Gonzo was the “old coot” who basically bounced back and forth from one bar to another and tells the same stories they’ve all heard 900 times. As one point, Helen jumped in and told me the whole story that Gonzo was trying to tell in about 3 sentences! It was a hoot because they all were poking lighthearted fun at this guy and he didn’t mind - or was too bombed to care.
Will offered me the lawn by the rectory to pitch a tent on or to sleep inside, but I really wanted to see how my double sleeping bag would do, as far as keeping me warm. First night in the high 30’s outside. I had use of the bathroom inside and figured if it was too cold maybe I could just go inside. It turned out the sleeping bags were quite cozy. Thanks for all your hospitality Will!