Antonito, Colorado to Chama, New Mexico
I was apprehensive about crossing two passes today, but my day ended up filled with enough fantastic scenery to quickly erase the concern.
Early on, I pedaled through Conejos Canyon. Elevation slowly rising from 7,800 ft. to 10,200 ft. Gorgeous, gorgeous, gorgeous scenery!! Mountains, vistas, blue sky, fall foliage, creeks, waterfalls and rivers. Colorado Rte. 17 twisting and winding through the Rio Grande National Forest. I passed a huge Smoky the Bear - Prevent Forest Fires sign, and had to take a picture of it because it was riddled with bullet holes and dents. One bullet got poor Smoky in the... well, let’s just say a very sensitive area.
The road gradually wound up and down, reminding me of the opening scenes from “Mork and Mindy” where they were in a jeep on a Colorado mountain road. Could have been shot here, but then again it could have been any of 100 roads here in Colorado. Hell, knowing Hollywood, they could have shot it in California!
I especially enjoyed the aspen trees. Their leaves seem to glitter and shimmer if the wind is blowing and the sun hits them the right way. The leaves must have a dark side and a bright shiny side and as the wind twists them, they appear to shimmer.
Twenty-two miles of reasonable pedaling and then wham! Up we go! Five miles to La Manga Summit. The first mile is very steep - reminiscent of the Allegheny Front climb back on Day 6 in West Virginia. Here, the temperature was cool and no humidity, but on the down side, the altitude made for difficult breathing. After the first mile, the grade seemed more gradual and I stopped about 2 and 1/2 miles up and asked a woman, who had pulled over, to take a picture of me pedaling. I handed her the camera and went back down the hill a bit, turned around, and came up.
The next 1/2 of the ascent was filled with breathtaking scenery - literally! The scenery definitely helped power me up to the top. Coming down the hill were a slew of old-fashioned cars. Probably twenty or more, possibly involved in some kind of road rally. Yelled out my best “ooga - ooga” horn imitation and a few of them responded.
Finally, I reached the SUMMIT! I stuck my flag in a crook under the signpost and claimed victory!
This was to be my lunch stop. I got out my little stove and heated up some canned ravioli and enjoyed a victory meal at the top. The views were to savor, but I’ll tell you, that was the best damn ravioli I ever had!
After cleaning up and packing up, I worked my way through the saddle to the other pass. About 8 miles later, I came upon Cumbres Pass Summit. Cumbres means summit in Spanish (kinda like Sahara Desert). Anyway, the Scenic Narrow Gauge Railroad crosses the road at that spot. It actually runs between Antonito, CO and Chama, NM. Took a picture there. My odometer, at that point, was 2499.8 miles. I jumped on the bike and watched it turn over to 2500. Five miles later, I crossed the border into The Land of Enchantment - New Mexico!
It was a screaming fast ride downhill the next 8 miles into Chama. I just coasted at 30 mph and enjoyed the scenery!
Chama is a cute little touristy town. Terminals for the Cumbres - Toltec Scenic Railway. Lots of cafes and galleries and those dreaded Gift Shops! :(
Headed to the post office and library. Finally got to see the pictures from the first roll of film I shot. Now it’s 6 PM and I’m sitting at a picnic table writing. I am tired. Back down to 7800 ft, here in Chama. They say it was 32° last night. Let’s see how the tent holds up tonight!
Totals for the day: 52.21 miles, 4 hrs. 45 min., 2515.4 total miles
Village Bean Open Mike Night:
I wandered around Chama and ended up in the Village Bean Coffee House. It was quite crowded because it was "open mike" night. I figured I could drink a latte and be entertained for a bit. While I was waiting for my order, a lady in her mid 60’s was hitting on me. She said she wanted to adopt me! I just gave her one of those looks and she backed off. I found a big cushy chair in the back and settled down for an hour of poets, singers, and a touch of the bizarre. Most unusual was a guy who would stand at the mike and lip sync Dolly Parton tunes. Very Andy Kaufman... Mostly, I enjoyed a soft seat under my sore ass and for my first night in the Land of Enchantment, I’d say it was some enchanted evening.