Cathedral State Park, (near Aurora) West Virginia to Philippi, West Virginia.
Stayed overnight at Maryland Hotel atop Backbone Mountain. Peg and the Garritys arrived at 7 last night and we had dinner at Melanie’s in Aurora, WV. Back to motel and Kathy whipped up a stream of Cosmopolitans. I was really ready for bed after getting up at 5:30 the day before but decided to have one or two or 3 and then maybe a “short one”. Lots of talk and then my eyes started closing. I still haven’t had an actual shower in 6 days and everyone said they couldn’t tell. (I hope they weren’t just humoring me.) Actually, bathing has occurred in rivers, creeks, and restrooms. Sometimes you just have to get the salt off your body - white shirts don’t show it, but I have an orange T-shirt with white streaks all through it, making it look tie-dyed. Can feel a laundry stop coming soon. How exciting.
The motel was the only one for miles and miles and it wasn’t too bad except for the plug-in room deodorizers. Otherwise it was your basic Bates Motel. Oh yeah, there wasn’t a lock of any kind on the door...
Murphy knocked on the door at 8 AM and I wasn’t ready to get up yet but realized I had better. Drove back to Melanies for breakfast. Murphy and Kathy treated for dinner and breakfast. Thanks!!!!! Can’t believe they drove 3 hours just to see me along the way. Great, great friends! Very encouraging! Packed up the bike, took a few pictures, and they left. Now a final goodbye to Peg, who I said goodbye to on Tuesday. This one is for a long while unless she flies out to meet me in a few weeks. Hugs and kisses and back on the road. US 50 West at 10 AM.
First 13.5 miles wonderful. Flat farm and cool. Then a 3 mile downhill coast, followed by several miles along the beautiful Cheat River to Macumber, WV. First stop. Rest and now a 3.5 mile switchback climb. Whew, made it to the top. You know what the greatest road sign is? Downgrade 8% Next 4.5 miles. Especially after that climb. I have to let the sweat dry before I descend otherwise too cold. 35 mph wind chill and I’m wet. Next stop Fellowsville, WV.
Sore left knee this morning. Result of Allegheny Front yesterday?? Worried it is would be a problem today, but as I take a break at 27 miles, I think it’s OK.
Just passed the 400 mile mark in Fellowsville, WV. Assembly of God morning service outside in a picnic shelter with some local in work clothes singin’ about Jesus with a microphone. I can’t believe how many sideroads are call ____________(fill in the blank) Hollow Road. You name it and they have a Something Hollow Rd. Am I gonna see this all the way to Kentucky and Butcher Hollow - Coal Miner’s Daughter’s own personal hollow. Oh, to live in a hollow....
I don’t have any topographical maps with me. I kinda rely on local knowledge to find out what kind of mountains and hills I have in store - but I do know if the name of the town is something... dale, it will be flat, something... field, it will be flat, and Mount... something - I gotta pedal hard.
Junction Rte. 50W & 119 S
Roadkill of the day: pregnant raccoon and litter. EEE-WWWWW!
1:35 PM Lunch in Grafton, WV. Remember seeing a sign - Grafton 88 miles yesterday. Now I’m here! The more I stop, it seems that the people all look familiar, like I’ve seen them somewhere before. Not sure what that’s all about.
I remember back in Romney talking to this guy at breakfast and he said, “Ain’t you scared of snakes?” I said, “No, I’m not scared of snakes. I’m scared of log trucks and dump trucks and steep mountains! Snakes won’t bother you unless you bother them.”
119 S. Stopped at Anna Jarvis’ birthplace. She was the woman who got President Wilson to designate the second Monday in May at Mother’s Day. (Oddly, she is buried in Bala Cynwyd at West Laurel Cemetery near Philadelphia - blocks from where I used to work.) Thanks for indulging me in this history moment.
3:30 PM Phillipi, WV. Debating whether to go another 20 miles to Buckhannon.
This sure beats walking 2 miles at dinner in Wynnefield. Makes skating around the Kelly twice seem like a piece of cake. Even the ride to Valley Forge and back on a bike now seems tame.
Done 4:15 PM. Phillipi, WV is home for tonight. Tygart River runs through it. Old wooden 2 lane covered bridge crosses the river. Seems like a good place...
51.18 miles on the day - 4 hours 29 minutes total riding time (slacked) - 430 total miles.
Talked to some locals after scouting out a place to camp. They said the road to Buckhannon is a lot of up and down, but no major climbs. Glad I stopped early because I didn’t really want that at the end of the day. Figure I better not blow out my knee early.
Went for a quick dip in the Tygart River. Beautiful summer day - hot, low humidity. Water felt great. Swam under the covered bridge. Rode my bike through it a few times too. Very cool. A small dam 200 yards up river makes a band of waterfalls spanning the width of the river. I’m writing this from a nicely manicured park overlooking the river. Drying out the bathing suit. Trying to finish the Sunday Times puzzle that I started yesterday while waiting for Peg and the Garritys to arrive. Then dinner and tent time. Phillipi was site of first land battle of the Civil War and this park I’m in is called, Blue and Gray Park.
The covered bridge is the only one on a federal highway that is still in use.
Made a few phone calls after “gourmet” dinner at Hardees. Geez, I went there because I worked at one in college. Didn’t eat too much. Probably because I only went 51 miles today.
Slept in a nice, flat, open area alongside the Tygart River. Several freight trains came through in the middle of the night on the other side of the river. Got a great night’s sleep - snug and warm in sleeping bag.
I get the sense that a lot of you are slowly getting hooked on this. All I can say is... I’m glad. It’s a big country, it’s a great country, and I hope you all enjoy the ride! After only 7 days, all I can say is... it’s already been worth it!