Tales From China

Page 4

ulturally, China is so different from the U.S. that, coupled with the language barrier, we didn’t always understand what was up. Our very first day in China, Jill was hit in the back by the handlebar of a man’s bicycle. No big damage, but it was hard to watch this man ride away from the collision smiling! Little did we know that people smile here when they are embarrassed. So, he wasn’t grinning at hitting a tourist, but ashamed that he couldn’t avoid the accident in the first place. It is these sorts of things that made us love to learn about China, and to appreciate it for all the ways that it was different from our culture.

or instance, this country is full of spitters. Everyone does it. It’s not just any kind of spitting either, but the "conjure up from the bottom of the lungs and clear out the sinuses" kind of thing that makes you wonder if breakfast gets heaved up with everything else in the process. Despite national campaigns to stamp out this unclean habit, it still exists. No place is free from splattered lugies. This includes the floors of crowded trains, buses and restaurants. We found it difficult to get used to this practice, but after a few bikes rides of our own - through densely populated cities with lots of pollution and dust in the air - we found ourselves more sympathetic and even contributed on a few occasions. Now we know why the soles of shoes are considered extremely unclean, and why no one wears sandals!

ourism is no foreigner in China, and the almighty dollar has found its way into a few Chinese hearts. It’s a mixed blessing in many aspects. It’s nice to find an English speaking ticket agent, the occasional Western toilet, and a translated menu. After a frustrating ticket queue experience, squat toilets, and trying to communicate "no meat please" in sign language, the subtle touches of home can be a refreshing "ah". Certainly even the most intrepid travelers can appreciate those times when something is easier than expected and all your travel gears can downshift, if only for a moment.

or those vacations from your vacation, China even sports a few "backpacker" destinations complete with English speaking guesthouses, Western food and Hollywood movies. We passed through a few of these spots and found them great hangouts, a good place to trade stories and information with others, but maybe a bit too much like home (we’re supposed to be seeing the world right?) and it seemed easy to end up becoming a semi-permanent fixture around town. Besides, how many mornings can you eat banana pancakes?

n a wearier note, China historically had a multi-tiered pricing system - one price for locals, another for foreigners of Chinese descent, and then everyone else. The government has changed to a "one price for all" strategy, making any government institutions (like transportation) affordable to the independent traveler. Officially, this is supposed to be the modus operandi for all of China, but in reality many people connected with the tourism industry are "on the take" in some way or another.

ven those not associated, like a fruit vendor in a market, seem to fumble over how much to charge for an item when asked by a foreigner. This is sometimes demonstrated blatantly when a vendor carries on a discussion with his neighbor and Chinese numbers go flying through the air before he answers you with a price. We always try to bargain our hardest, but know we probably still pay more than a local person. It’s this kind of thing that can drive you crazy or just make you realize it is part of the deal when you are a visitor.


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