Written and photographed
by Jim & Carolyn Shelton
There's something about the way a horse looks at you, as if to say, "So what are you complaining about? Your feet never touched the ground." De-termined to fish high wilderness lakes in the Sawtooth Mountains of south-central Idaho, we knew the best way to reach primo fishing spots was on horseback. From base camp, we could catch a grand slam of trout: rainbow, cutthroat, brown, golden, and brookies.
The region contains more than 350 miles of mapped hiking trails on the Sawtooth National Forest. Many lakes are accessible only by bushwhacking cross-country over steep terrain and boulder fields. In a wilderness area of over 235,000 acres, horses can reach distant lakes and valleys in less time. They also carry bulky and heavy items to make camping comfortable, like tents, sleeping pads, lantern and stove.
We packed basic flyfishing gear plus float tubes to help access lakes encircled by steep talus slopes and sheer cliffs. Into the car went 4-weight rods with floating and sinking lines, and 6-weights for spares or windy days. Royal Coachman, Adams, and tiny Griffith's Gnats crammed our fly boxes, most tied over the past couple of weeks.
Braving a nightlong drive from Seattle and short nap in the car, we made trailhead a few hours after sunrise. Day dawned clear and cool enough to wear a down vest. There, we met Darl Alred, owner of Sawtooth Wilderness Outfitters. Darl and his wrangler saddled the horses, and in short order cinched our gear atop a sturdy mule. We mounted up and left civilization for the better part of a week.
Into the Wilderness
Led by Darl and his packstring, we followed the dusty winding trail uphill along the Payette River, passing rockslides, riffles, and waterfalls. Jagged spires and ridges rose abruptly, confirming "Sawtooth Mountains" as an apt description. In the distance loomed the notorious peak "Finger of Fate."
A long hot ride later, the horses crested a pass overlooking a deep turquoise lake-the headwaters of the Payette. We tied-out horses and pitched camp near a spring-fed creek beneath towering fir and pines. Before dinner we wandered the shoreline, catching and releasing brook trout while swallows swooped over the lake. Tiny midges swarmed over the shallows and graceful mayflies dipped and danced just above the rippled surface.
After dinner we inflated our float tubes. Although the lake was deep, the belly boats spooked fish unless we cast, then sat perfectly still for a minute or two. A muddler stripped in slowly interspersed with occasional twitches fooled several brookies. Natural spawning time was not far off in the short alpine summer and the fish had brightly colored spots and fins.
Next morning Daryl suggested a hike up to an unnamed lake that he had discovered the summer before. On the topo maps, no lake showed in that area. We were eager to stretch out muscles, stiff from yesterday. With knapsacks stuffed full of fishing gear and a lunch, we bushwhacked up a rocky slope.
Far above camp lay immense granite slabs of rock scraped smooth by retreating glaciers thousands of years ago. It was those ice age glaciers that carved the 44 million year old pinkish granite of the Sawtooth Range into a sea of jagged peaks that surrounded us. And over the weathered outcrops, lichens clung tenaciously in a richly variegated carpet of green, black, yellow, and orange.
We stopped at the top to catch our breath. Far below, our tents looked like little dots. And everywhere-in rocky crevices, little grassy knolls, and open patches of dirt-wildflowers bloomed in glorious profusion.
A field of huge boulders guarded the shore of the hidden lake. Crystal clear and curving around the base of a cliff, the lake lay enveloped like a secret in the rocky basin. We peeked over the edge to see rainbow trout finning, suspended just off the bottom. With no more desire for the moment than to simply watch them in their absolute natural state, we leaned back against an ancient pine tree and took in the beauty.
|
Backcountry Horsepack What you need to Know All you need to go on a guided horsepack trip is your personal gear - sleeping bag, clothes, camera, and fishing rod. An Idaho state non-resident fishing license is required ($7.50 daily + $3 each additional day; $51.50 for the year), and can be purchased at sporting goods stores throughout the state. Everything else is provided. Summertime in the Sawtooths is warm, sometimes 90 degrees during the day, and although evenings are pleasant, it can drop into the 40's at night because of clear skies and high elevations. Brief afternoon thunderstorms are common in summer, so pack a rainsuit. The Idaho Outfitters & Guides Association [P.O.Box 95, Boise, ID 83701 (208)342-1438] is a good source of licensed outfitters and guides that operate in the Sawtooth National Recreation Area (NRA) and throughout the state. For information on fly patterns, call McCoy's Tackle Shop in Stanley (208) 774-3377. Forest Service maps are available at Sawtooth Forest visitor centers at Stanley, Redfish Lake, and near the south entrance to the NRA during summer months. Sawtooth Wilderness Outfitters [Box 81, Garden Valley, ID 83622 (208)462-3416; summer: (208)259-3408; e-mail: swo@micron.net] offers fully guided trips for any number of days ($185.00/day/person), as well as "spot packs" ($100.00/horse/day), where they take you and your gear by horseback into the wilderness, then pick you up at a prearranged time. They also have llamas, if you are so inclined. |
Next day we climbed on our horses, and headed for yet another lake and basin. The trails, well maintained, proved safe despite precarious ridges and switch-backs. The views were spectacular.
Our horses eased up and down the trail, passing between massive house-sized rocks. Emerging from timber, we arrived at a lush meadow, its creek trickling into a small lake. The water was crystal clear and glassy, and trout cruised lazily near the surface. We dismounted to test our angling skills once again.
Within minutes rise rings rippled in the shallows, not ten feet away. Assuming these fish had never seen artificial flies, we tied on big bushy dry patterns-elk hair caddis and Royal Wulff-just for the fun of it. From behind a sunken log, a small trout of perhaps 12 inches darted out to intercept the offering. A split second before it could take the fly, a bigger fish bullied past and nailed the caddis imitation.
For the next several hours we wandered the shoreline, casting from atop giant boulders and sneaking on hands and knees through rushes and reeds. By the time Darl called for us to leave, we must have landed two dozen rainbow, cutthroat, and "cutt-bows," and hooked twice that many.
Our last morning dawned clear and sunny. We casually packed our personal gear and tent while the aroma of coffee and bacon wafted across the meadow, promising another hearty meal. After breakfast we fetched the horses from their tethers. They seemed eager to travel-the day was perfect for riding with a slight breeze and the sun at our back. We sat easily in the saddle now, after a few days on the trail.
Near the junction of the lake basin trail with the main path we turned around for one last look. Thrushes and Clark's nutcrackers claimed our campsite. There was no sign that we had ever been here-the first rule of camping. The lake seemed to sparkle in the morning sun like diamonds, and the breeze smelled like pines. With a gentle prod, the horses ambled down the trail toward home.
Jim and Carolyn Z. Shelton are a nationally-known team of outdoor writers and photographers living in Sultan, Washington. When they're not on the water in search of trophy fish and scenic vistas, they are most likely writing about it. Jim and Carolyn are frequent contributors to Fly Fish America. You can reach them via E-mail at czraven@gte.net
- ROCKY MOUNTAIN
- Shops
- Shows
- Suppliers
indicates a direct
- website link
- COLORADO
Boxwood Gulch
Ranch, Colorado
Breckenridge
Outfitters
- Front Range Anglers
- Longs Drugs
- Ramble House
- IDAHO
Drifters,
Idaho
- MONTANA
Montana Fly
Goods Company
- NEW MEXICO
- Rainbow Lodge
Blackfire Flyfishing Guest
Ranch New Mexico
- WYOMING
Two Rivers
Emporium
- Ugly Bug Fly Shop
- OTHER DESTINATIONS
Alaska
Trophy Adventures, Alaska
Northern Escape,
British Columbia
- SUPPLIERS
BT's Fly Fishing
Products
Discount Fly
Fishing
Professor
Bodkin
- Shops
