FAQs
Frequently Asked Questions

If you have a question about piggies, feel free to e-mail me about it at cavylove@gmail.com and I will do my best to give you an answer. I may even post it here! In the meantime, enjoy reading the questions and answers below and hopefully when you leave this page you will have learned something new.

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Q: What is the average lifespan of a guinea pig?

A: Most guinea pigs live about 6-8 years. Unfortunately however many only make it to 2 or 3, sometimes because of a fatal disease such as cancer but far more often because the guinea pig fell ill with a common illness which could have been cured but the owners failed to get proper veterinary treatment. On the other extreme, a very few guinea pigs have actually reached their early teens. The lifespan of your guinea pigs depend largely on the quality of care they receive: diet, hygiene etc.

Q: I have a new baby guinea pig and it doesn't seem to like me at all. When I try to take it out of the cage it runs away and when I have it out it is all fidgety and doesn't want to cuddle. What should I do?

A: You are experiencing normal young piggie behavior. Many of them are quite skittish while they're young, but most settle down by the time they're around a year old. In the meantime, keep on holding your piggie so it gets used to you. Veggies during lap time may help it learn to trust you. Also, if you don't have one already, a hideout in the cage is a good idea to help it to feel secure.

Q: My guinea pig has bald spots behind his ears. What does that mean?

A: All guinea pigs have bald spots behind their ears and inside their forepaws. They are more noticable in some breeds, such as abyssinians, whose fur grows away from the bald spot instead of covering it up. Bald spots elsewhere on the body are not normal and should be checked by a vet.

Q: I got a new guinea pig and he looks very healthy. Do I still have to keep him in quarantine before introducing him to my other pigs? If so, how long?

A: All new guinea pigs should be kept in quarantine for two weeks before being introduced to any current pigs. This means they need to be in a different cage and a different room, and you should wash your hands and change shirts after a cuddle with the new one before you go and handle the old ones. Two weeks is usually long enough for any hidden diseases to turn up, if he still seems healthy after two weeks you can introduce him to your other piggies.

Q: I saw one of those big exercise balls at the pet store and bought it for my piggie, but she doesn't seem interested in it. What's wrong with her?

A: Exercise balls and wheels are a HUGE no-no for guinea pigs as they don't have flexible backs like other rodents. Using a ball or wheel can seriously injure a guinea pig's back. She didn't use it because she's smart and knows it's bad for her. If you saved your receipt, go back to the pet store, get a refund, and buy some creative cubes to build a play pen. That should give her all the exercise she needs.

Q: I read that the average weight for a guinea pig is 2 pounds, but mine weighs less/more than that. Should I worry?

A: I find all of those "average weight" figures confusing. Guinea pigs, like people, have different frame sizes, and therefore, the average weight for one may be very different from the average weight of another. Feel the ribs and hip bones of your guinea pig; they should have a good layer of flesh over them but you should be able to feel them without trouble. If you can't feel them easily, the guinea pig is overweight and it's time to cut down on fattening foods like pellets and fruit. On the other side of the scale, if there is only a thin layer of skin over the ribs and hip bones and you can feel them too easily, your guinea pig is underweight and needs to be seen by a vet as this is often a sign of sickness. You should weigh your guinea pigs weekly and note any gains or losses in weight that may not be normal. If your guinea pig suddenly begins to gain or lose weight without apparent reason, it should be seen by a vet.

Q: My guinea pig food says that it is a 100% complete diet. Do I still have to use hay and veggies?

A: That's just marketing - it is impossible for a pelleted diet to be 100% complete. Basically what is in good pellets is hay and a bunch of different grains. These are nutritious for guinea pigs, but are far from a complete diet. They need a constant supply of straight hay to ensure that they have plenty of fiber for their digestive system, and also whole strands of hay require a large amount of chewing to grind them up which usually is enough to keep a guinea pig's teeth down to size. Daily veggies are also neccesary for vitamin content which is lost in the drying process used for pellets. Visit the Nutrition page for more info.

Q: I just bought a new guinea pig and the people at the pet store said it was a girl but I'm not sure. What should I do?

A: Pet store employees generally are NOT educated on how to sex piggies and their guess (for really, that's all it is) is wrong most of the time and many guinea pigs have gotten pregnant from their careless-ness. It's always good to double check the sex of your piggie yourself if you get it from a pet store or other source that doesn't know much about piggies. Visit the Sexing page for info on how to do this.

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