Men's Fashions
March 1893
In tailoring the changes are not very startling although there
is a decided tendency toward the lengthening of all styles of coats.
Rough goods in black, dark blue, and mixed colors are the
materials best liked, some of the dress suits being made of the rough surfaced black
goods. Dress coats are, however, usually of fine balck diagonal.
Spring and Summer business coats are in the cutaway or sack
shape, and of homespun in mixed brown or gray.
The Tuxedo is of the sack form and is used as a half dress
coat for home dinners and theater parties. It has held its popularity for several years,
abd certainly fills a decided want.
The Prince Albert is as popular as ever, and is often seen in
the rough goods.
The English frock coat is worn by a man of mediu height as
much as thirty-nine or forty inches in length. This is, however, the extreme of the style,
which, as said above, tends to make all coats long. The lappels have a round effect.
Double-breasted frock coats fastened with three buttons are
the most stylish. Vicunas, Thibets and soft finished worsteds are proper.
Three-button morning coats vary in length; about thrity-fice inches, however, is usual.
They are finished with extremely narrow bindings or stitching, according to the goods of
which they are made. Neat and unobtrusive results are the aims of the best men's
outfitters.
Fancy waistcoats of vesting silk in brilliant colorings are
making a bid for popularity. They are made with notched collars and are either double or
single breasted, a stout man appearing best in the former. Full dress vents are cut a
trifle narrower and more pointed than heretofore.
Covert coats are used for Spring overcoats and are most
frequently of the various shades of tan and brown.
In trousers there is little perceptible change, although an
attempt is being made to have them smaller at the bottom. There is usually from three to
five inches difference in the circumference at the instep and at the knee.
The flowing end small knot four-in-hand is the leading style
in neckwear. The regular four-in-hand is always in correct taste. Soft silks in indigo,
marine blue and also with light and white ground strewn with pin spots, polka dots, or
delicate flowers are the mode.
In gloves undressed kid in tan and brown with self stitching
and very large pearl buttons are the most favored for street wear. There is no change in
driving gloves.
In hoisery black and tan shades are prevalent. Few fancy hose
are seen, stripes and plain colors being selected by the gentlemen of the best taste.
Shirt fronts still preserve the shield shape; colored ones of
madras or cheviot will be much used during the Summer. The fancy colored percales will be
worn with neglige' costumes, and will be seen often with white collars and cuffs, although
it is more correct to have the collar and cuffs match the shirt.
In lightweight underwear, lisle and silk are used. Ivory,
salmon and pink are among the fancies of the season; the hoisery is bought to match the
fancy underwear.
Silk hats exhibit a few slight variations in shape. The
English hats are of a decided bell shape, which is not so marked as those of AMerican
manufacture. The crowns are six and a half inches high with rolled brims and wide silk
bands.
The crowns of the derbys are slightly lower and more tapering,
the brims being round and curled.
English felts have shallower crowns and wider brims with the
flat D'Orsay curve. Some of the stiff felts are bound and banded with leather. The Alpine
shapes in brown and gray with black bands will be much worn through the Spring.
The tightly rolled umbrella of twilled silk and with natural
wood sticks twisted in quaint designs are the only style used by men of fashion. The wood
is sometimes trimmed with silver.
Canes have the tops bent like shepherd's crooks, or are of
ivory or buck-horn either gold or silver trimmed. The horn handles are very English, and
are considered extremely stylish. |
