The one thing that we so not want on a glassy water landing is a flare-out to a landing. We cannot flare-out because on a glassy water surface we cannot see where the surface is. With that one goal in mind, we must have a procedure that makes the landing possible. Earlier in these observations, I mentioned that the lake should be at least one mile long. It is important that our procedure fits for that length of lake. I find quite normally, applicants taking over two miles of lake to get on the water. We must remember that in order not to have a flare-out, we must have very little attitude change while on final approach. Let's assume fifty-foot banks with fifty-foot trees surrounding the lake. In order to have little attitude change on final we will have to be quite close to the tops of the trees as we come over the shoreline - let's say twenty-five feet. This should give us one hundred twenty five feet to descend to the water's surface. Remembering that we don't want to land on the beach on the far side, we have only about 35 to 40 seconds, once we've passed the shoreline, to get the job done.

How can it be done? First, we must know of any errors in our airspeed indicator at stall speeds using a landing configuration of desired flaps. Secondly, we must be aware of any errors in our in the vertical speed indicator. These are two very important instruments for the glassy water landing. Let's start the whole sequence from just after the turn onto final approach to touchdown. At the start of the final approach, you should be about 600 feet above lake level - this gives you about 475 feet to descend until the shoreline. At an average descent rate of 350 feet per minute - at an average airspeed of 1.3 times the stall speed for the approach configuration - you will need a minimum of a 1-1/2 mile final before reaching the shoreline. Remember; control airspeed using the elevator and the rate of descent using the throttle. When you arrive over the tops of the trees, at the shoreline, you should have gradually slowed to 1.2 times the stall speed. From that point to the water's surface, you must descend about 125 feet with a slow descent rate of 25 to 50 feet per minute for the last 25 feet of descent to the surface, you will have to increase your rate of descent for a short time after passing the shoreline. When you are at the shoreline, decrease your power to about 500 feet per minute of descent. At the same time increase your attitude to an air speed of 1.1 times the stall speed for a few seconds. Then hold your attitude and increase your power for a rate of descent of 25 to 50 feet per minute. Maintain that condition until touchdown. After touchdown, close the throttle.

In summary let me stress that the rules I have suggested are very basic. They are not so complicated that they cannot be remembered from one season to another. They are the rules most often broken that end in accidents. They are the procedures most often done inadequately during flight tests. They can be used as instrument panel placards on seaplanes.

Here they are again:

1. DON'T HURRY.

2. NEVER EXCEED 1,000 RPM UNLESS YOU WISH TO STEP TAXI, STEP TURN, OR TAKE OFF.

3. ALWAYS HAVE A MINIMUM RPM AND WATER SPEED WHEN TURNING INTENTIONALLY OR UNINTENTIONALLY INTO THE WIND.

4. IF YOU ARE GOING TO INCREASE YOUR RPM ABOVE 1,000 ALWAYS BE HEADED DIRECTLY INTO THE WIND.

Practicing the four rules just mentioned and the glassy water landing technique should guarantee happy times while flying floats. However, there are two other areas of float flying skills that are absolutely necessary if we are to fly to another lake and stay for a period of time.

1. Beaching, buoying, or docking.

2. Tying down for a stay.

After the choice of area for tying down and it's associated problems have been considered, we have to have some procedures to get to the tie down site. Choice of a tie down site will be discussed later, but very often an air search for a site prior to landing is much more economical than searching for one while taxiing.

An important point that I want to firmly state -- it is not possible to maneuver the seaplane to any site you might want to go. It's all right to admit that fact. As the pilot gains experience there are more sites from which to select. In gaining that experience there is one big rule that the pilot must remember. When BEACHING, DOCKING, OR BUOYING, ALWAYS BE HEADED INTO THE WIND. We must keep the wind on the nose of the aircraft if we are to maintain any positive control. An aircraft with the wind on it's tail has much less control and it certainly will continue to increase it's water speed to nearer the wind velocity (the only possible exception to this is if the pilot is operating the seaplane on a river where there is a current to consider. Then we have the force of the current to consider. However, if you have a choice when landing on a river, land into the wind and not into the current.

If the wind is blowing toward the dock or beach that you wish to go, you must stop the aircraft's engine and use your sailing technique. Notice that if things are going badly you can always re-start your engine, pull to safety and try it again. Never get yourself into a situation where you have no desirable options.

If the wind is blowing from the shore and you wish to dock or beach, you have a much easier job. Keep a slow speed -- stopping the engine well before getting onto the beach or dock. In this situation the air and water surface are usually quite calm and the last part of your problem should be handled with a paddle.

If there is an on-shore or offshore crosswind, the problem of docking or beaching can be more difficult. Just remember to plan your approach with the wind as much as possible to the aircraft's nose. Remember to always have a desirable option if things are going badly. DESIRABLE OPTIONS DECREASE WITH THE WIND ON THE TAIL OF THE AIRCRAFT.

When you are working up to a buoy you should usually be able to taxi slowly to it from the down-wind position. Stop the engine and drift up to it. If you can't do that, the rule still holds -- you'll have to sail back to it.

All applicants for a seaplane rating should be trained in how to take care of the aircraft after they have at either the beach or the dock. Contrary to popular belief, the floatplane is not a boat. It must not be treated as such when one is faced with the problem of safely securing it for any length of time. The plane is very susceptible to wind. The floats are even more susceptible to the lake bottom conditions such as rocks -- both large and small, stones, pebbles, and even sand. Wave action caused by wind and boats can rock the aircraft resulting in damage to the floats. Naturally the best situation would be a sheltered area with a grass or mud bottom, free of any abrasive materials. These are some of the things the pilot must consider when choosing an area for securing a seaplane. Very seldom will we have the ideal situation, but we should always attempt to get as close as possible to it.

An aircraft float is a fragile thing. For the job it has to do it is fantastically well designed. But, as with all things aeronautical, there are many compromises. A float must be light in order to keep the aircraft's useful load as high as possible. The float that Edo Corporation makes for the Cessna 172 is the 2000 model. Each one weighs about 110 pounds and has the ability to hold 2,000 lbs. of weight above the water. In order to stay light the hull is 4/100ths of an inch thick, a compromise to durability. The sides and bottom are riveted to the bulkheads and the keel. The floats' bottoms and sides and the rivets absorb the pounding that the floats take while taking off and landing in any wave condition. Basically, the main "shock absorber" is a continuous destruction of the float -- where the rivets hold the structure together. With this very basic information about the construction of a float let us continue with securing procedures. The plane and floats must be tied down securely to minimize movement. Certain amounts of ropes are needed for the job. Normally the following number and lengths of 3/8" rope should be available: two 50', two 30', four 15'. Make sure that there is a loop braided into one end of each length and that the other end is prepared so that it will not unravel. Caution -- after using, be sure that all knots are out of the lines. Now, let's tie down the aircraft for the night. Work the tail of the aircraft as far up on the beach as you can -- getting the wing's angle of attack as low as possible. Work a wooden post under the keel at the step or under the float aft of the step in order to keep abrasive action of the lake bottom at a minimum. Tie off the tail 45 ^o to each side on shore -- this should keep the tail from moving in a wind. Using the loop end of a long length of line, fashion a loop about the wing strut. Pull it up on the wing strut and tie off the other end as low and as parallel to the wing as possible. If enough line remains, tie off the fronts of the floats in the same manner. If you have reason to feel that a bad storm is on it's way, it's very acceptable to remove the float covers and flood the front compartments -- the resulting lower angle of attack and added weight will make the aircraft even more secure. Naturally flooding all compartments results in absolute stability.

If the aircraft is to be secured to the side of a dock, the risk of damage to the floats is greater. However, if that is what must be done, be sure the aircraft is pointed lakeward, and that the side of the float is not rubbing against the dock posts. Some kind of shock absorbing material should be placed between the posts and floats. If possible, tie off the wings. Once again, the idea is to make the aircraft as secure as possible.

These are the two most common methods of temporary tie-downs. As a parting shot on this topic, also remember that it may not be possible to fond a good site near where you want it to be. In that case consider the aircraft's safety before your own comfort and find a suitable place.

Continued...