Keith's Adventures in South East Asia with Tim.
Edited - Graeme Cochrane. Ed's note: Tim's ramblings are in Blue, Keith's are black
The Swan in Cheltenham one cold autumn evening in November.
I was ranting at Tim over a pint about my job and having to work another Xmas and Hogmany. (As Tim is retired he didn't give a shit!). I mentioned I needed a holiday and fancied seeing the temples at Anchor in Cambodia. Tim hinted at an interest in Vietnam, so as pints wore on it was a months holiday covering Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia and back to Thailand in January. The flights were booked a few days later.
I'd love to start the diary now, but I must bore you with more ranting on about banking systems and incompetence. My bank card was a bit tatty and worn so I ordered a new one a couple of weeks before departure and thought nothing more about it. The new bank card went to Puddledub even though it was supposed to go to the local branch in Cheltenham, as arranged, for pick up. Eventually got it sent down, cheers Grum, and used it. The pin No failed so went to Thailand with no working bank card. Also the bank forgot to inform me that e-banking had to be re-registered with new pass codes. Doh!
Day 1 Tues 27th Jan: Dumped the Shite machine (ed) with the Delectable Rosie, then headed off to the bus station in Cheltenham. Tim and I gave ourselves at least 8 minutes to complete this task (walking) and just made it. Hols started. Got to Heathrow 6 and 1/2 hours before the flight and made Tim queue with me from 3pm for a 9.30 pm flight at the check in. We were first in the queue obviously. (Well! I need leg room). I disappeared for some papers and stuff at 4.20 pm and they opened the check in desk, Doh! Anyway, only a few people had passed through by the time I got back and I still got an exit seat, result! Bumped in to Chris Cass, an old flat mate from Bournemouth in the departure gate, same flight - small world!
Day 2 Wed 28th Jan: Arrived a bit Knackered but secured a taxi to the 'Radisson Hotel' in Bangkok. When we arrived they had the gall to put us in a NON SMOKING room, had to correct them on that,(13 hour flight without a fag - I don't think so!) Got settled in a proper room and went out to Pat Pong night market to get Tim a wife. Had some Thai curry from a stall, a staggering 25p each, and went round the market constantly getting hassled by touts to go to Ping pong shows and Jacuzzi massage parlours. (We declined!) I needed a slash so went up this street to find a bar. Tim pointed out that he thought the establishment was gay. I reckoned he was correct in this assumption after remembering that the start of the street had a sign saying all persons looking under 20 years will have to produce their passports. OOps! the whole street was gay. So pulling all the hands off our arses we minced out a there! Ended up in a bar with a 10 piece band, good beer, good whusky and loads of Thai birds trying to get us to buy them drinks. Enjoyed watching Tim losing drinks by getting gubbed at connect 4. Great time, got back to hotel around 2am pished!
Day 3 (Thu 29th Jan): Got up around 9.30am and pissed around then headed out to the Vietnamese embassy to sort out our Visas. First, pissed about a bit trying to get some visa photos from somewhere, impossible, our hotel is miles from anywhere, a bit like Milton Keynes. Got ripped off by the taxi driver who took us on the toll expressway (Made us pay the tolls) that went all the way round in a circle to where we were before. Never mind, his fare was about 1 pound fifty, should have been 50p. Just made it to the embassy as it closed at 11.30am, sorted it out with 2 mins to spare, (nearly 50 quid for a visa Mmmm!) have to pick up tomorrow at 4pm.Got on the sky train through BKK to the river and got a river taxi. The river was fun and saw loads of temples, well known BKK land marks?, poor peoples stilt houses, poor people in general and different areas of the city. Got off at Khaosan, near the Khao San Rd and headed off to have lunch with the Hippies.
Keith AllanLeft my diary in hotel so can't give full report.
Had great time in Bangkok especially around the markets (decent pair of shorts for 1.50 sterling what a bargain). Keith has bought umpteen chunky watches. Managed to avoid being introduced to too many ladyboys by Keith. funny that an 8 year old girl selling roses thought he was my ladyboy and that I should buy him a rose. Riding in a tuc tuc was fun with a debate whether it would go up the steep hotel entrance ramp. With a run- up it made it just.
Now in Ho Chi Minh city Vietnam. Far better than Bangkok much cleaner, streets tree lined. Not many people cooking on the street. There are millions of mopeds. When we walked out of our hotel to cross the first busy junction Keith was in hysterics as mopeds were coming from all directions seemingly all at once and it looked impossible to cross. Luckily they make way for you as you cross the road. Weather warm, food excellent, better than Bangkok which was good, and even cheaper.
Having fun, Tim
Day 3 cont: Bought some speakers for walkman and Tim got himself a pair of sandals that the dude in the shop made himself with 'Best cow', he was nursing his blisters when we got back to the hotel. It was a long walk as the streets were gridlocked at rush hour, so there was no point in getting a taxi. Wash, shit and shave and it's back out for a curry. At the curry house an 8-year-old girl selling flowers pulled me up for looking like a lady boy. Had to buy a rose to shut her up. I gave it to one of the bar staff and she wouldn't look at me all night, must have thought I fancied her. After having to go back to the restaurant to pay in full, (We got chased down the street cause we hadn't paid the full amount) we headed off for a beer. Ended up in a Go Go bar that was pretty seedy, 52 girls and 4 customers including Tim and me. Left there after one drink and ended up in a livelier bar with a band. This still had a few bikini clad girls but they were a good laugh and got pished. Left at 2am and got ripped off by the taxi!
Day 4 (Fri 30th Jan) Slept in till midday, excellent. Tim had been up for a while but didn’t want to wake me, good lad. Went off to 'Chi ream loc' market, really traditional local place, ah culture! Took some photos, Tim’s still sussing out how to download and send them. Traffic is a nightmare so walked to Jim Thomson’s house. Didn't really have time to visit properly because we slept in and we still have to pick up our visas for tomorrow, so had lunch by his garden pool, very nice but expensive. Caught the sky train to the embassy and picked up visas then booked flights to Vietnam. Flights were about 40 quid cheaper than we were quoted at home, result! More beer money. Went back to the market and had a beer in the fishmongers! Velly nice too. Wandered round the tiny back streets, Tim got himself a pair of groovy shorts for 99 baht - about one pound thirty - amazing. When thhe market was starting to close we got a tut tut back to the Hotel. Didn't think the wee 3 wheeler was going to make it up the hotel ramp (about 40 degrees) but he took a good run at it and made it. I think the hotel staff were horrified by this as we piled out of the back by the limos. Last night in Bangkok and we've just found out the hotel has a free shuttle service to Pat Pong ever night at 9pm -Doh! Had brill food again and flirted with the sexy waitresses, then bought some dodgy watches and stuff and went for a beer. Ended up in the same bar as we were in the first night with the band. They were better tonight. Tim lost all his money at connect 4. Had a few beers and whuskies and a bit of a bar crawl. Had the last one in the 'Pink Panther', you can only guess! Went home after 2. Oh, and got ripped off by the taxi.Day 5 (Sat 31st) Got up early - 9am, and packed stuff. Checked out around 10am and got a taxi to the airport. Surprisingly enough we found out it was about a 1/4 of the price than it was on the way in. It pays to use a taxi with a meter. Checked in quite quickly but the plane was delayed and the only place they had to eat in departures was a KFC, yuch! Soon on the way and landing at HCMC. In hotel room, down town Saigon in the Pham Ngu Lao area. Tim’s got the room next door as he kindly let me have the one with windows and a balcony. Maybe he wanted a quieter room because as I am writing this in my diary the balcony door is open and it is havoc outside, but it suits me. The room has got en-suite facilities, TV (Foreign channels, but Liverpool/Everton was on), fridge and a view, for about 7 quid a night - sweet!
To be cont.
Sat 31st: Up by 9am as off to Vietnam. Taxi to airport cost 240 baht including tolls so we were definitely ripped off on arrival as cost 675 baht. I can’t believe it only food at Bangkok airport is KFC Chicken but we had to eat something. Worst meal so far. Plane 0.5 hr late so had can of poor beer whilst waiting. Why are airports so grotty? Small plane , Vietnam airline food very good. Beef in black bean sauce. 1.5 hr flight to Ho Chi Minh City (hcmc). Came through immigration no problem. Changed dollars into dongs (now a multimillionaire) headed for mass ranks of taxi bandits. Found taxi on a meter and headed to back packer small hotel area. Taxi only took us slightly different way to show us his preferred hotel. Got to where we wanted and left bags in Miss Saigon bar whilst looked round for hotel. Found reasonable one, fairly basic, my room has no windows but shower etc included. (Only sleeping there anyway). Two things stand out about HCMC – one is the number of mopeds about 8 million and we appear to see everyone at any instant. The second is all the main streets are lined with mature trees, each one painted white at the bottom and numbered. Plenty of green verges too although not grass. There are green open spaces everywhere. Walked out to explore as early Saturday evening, got to first crossroads – millions of mopeds, Keith just burst out laughing at the apparent total chaos. Eventually managed to cross the road without getting killed. Walked towards main roundabout with big statue in the middle. Young couples on mopeds just driving round and round, their idea of a Saturday night out. Found row of open air restaurants down side of of day market. Picked one at random and had excellent meal. Best yet at 2.50 sterling for both of us including beer. Made way back to hotel along edge of park lined with courting couples sat on mopeds and drinking coconut drinks. Called at Guns and roses bar for drink before heading to bed.
Sun 1st Feb: Up by 8.00 to go to Cu Chi tunnels. Trip organized by travel agent next door to hotel. After a couple of false starts the mini bus set off. To get everyone in an ordinary chair was used as well as a stool for Hi our tour guide. An hours ride out of city, roads very busy with mopeds. Starting to realize there is a system not just chaos. Much faster than if all had cars. During journey Hi told story of his six daughters and he only claims to be 27. Cu Chi tunnels very impressive linking communities over 260 km during Vietnam war. Saw the nasty traps made for the US army. Macho Keith fired of several bursts of a machine gun with live ammo. I used an AK47 Kolashnikov. Can easily see why its been the weapon of worldwide revolutions easy to use and little recoil. Afterwards I went in the tunnels which Keith declined (claustrophobia). Went the full 150m on display although most of group opted out by half way. Always bent double also have to go down and up vertical drops. At one point so small I had to crawl. Amazing that some lived in the tunnels for 5yrs. US troops unable to flush them out although they tried, flooding explosives, poison and dogs. Viets used 80% captured US weapons. Also took unexploded bombs to bits to make grenades and landmines. Very inventive. Arrived back to hotel , washed and changed as grubby from tunnels , just dug from hard earth. Had a look round city, we found a good place to eat near market. Afterwards we both got on the back of mopeds< the local version of the taxi and joined the madding crowd and headed for a jazz bar. Paid the drivers and then discovered bar was closing. Long walk back looking for anywhere open but mainly close early on a Sunday. Found Guns and Roses open and then Miss Saigon (friendly bar run by a Madam Chal). Ended up drinking beer and Vietnamese rum until 6am, bit like the Mitres used to be. Had to knock up the hotel staff as they had locked up.
Mon 2nd Feb: Woke up 1500/1530. Showered and knocked on Keith’s door. No reply so assumed he was out. Went for stroll to take pictures. Found big square full of trees, very shady. By the way weather warm and humid in HCMC. Thighs stiff from the stooped walk through the tunnels yesterday. As taking picture chatted to coconut drink seller. Bought one and sat on bench in shade. His mate a moped driver offered to take me for little tour round. We went wherever I wanted then dropped me off near hotel. Keith still out so went to open air restaurant area, had been turn into a market for the day. Bought shirt, by the time I’d finished bartering they were food places again. Walked through park back to hotel. People exercising, if you can call a slow stroll in a track suit exercise. Some it must be said were walking backwards. Tried Keith’s room again, he was in having just woken up from last nights drinking. As we had booked a bus to Mekong delta at 08.30 decided should go for food and have early night. Set off for Café/bar area Keith had seen on map. Forgot map so walked miles and became lost. Managed to find a road we vaguely recognized and stopped at small roadside café as I was starving. They could not speak English and the menu was in Vietnamese. But I recognised the word for beef and we got stir fried beef and veg cooked in 5mins in front of us. As usual very tasty. Walked back to Miss Saigon Bar for last drink to say goodbye. As we were about to leave Madam Chal offered us a leaving drink. I asked for rum as measure was similar to ones in England. Got a tumbler full which was about 0.25 of a bottle. Felt obliged to drink it. Keith had bad back from bumpy journey to tunnels, he had been talking to girl next to him at bar who offered to massage his back at hotel. As we were leaving she was joined by a friend who wanted to come back to my room. Bit dubious but she said she wanted to use my bathroom. I fell asleep on bed, in morning she had gone so had my non- digital camera. Nothing else seemed to be missing. Did not report it as had to catch bus. On bus discovered all my 50dollar notes and some Vietnamese dong gone so no longer a millionaire. Hot and not happy journey to Can Tho in Mekong delta. Have e-mail address of another girl behind bar at Miss Saigon so will e-mail her and perhaps prevent other people being caught.
Day 5 Cont. Just about to go out and sample the local brew – snake wine! It’s got a coiled up cobra in the bottle, Mmmm, it’s a bit like tequila with a 5ft maggot. The traffic is a joke. It’s a sight to be hold, you can’t cross the road. No one obeys traffic lights or signs. Mopeds and scooters, 50 – 60 at a time intertwine at crossings at around 30 –40 miles an hour just missing each other, I’ve never seen anything like it. Had a wander round the city, went to Apocalypse Now (great name) night club, but it there was a massive queue of really young Vietnamese, it looked like any under 25 disco club, so we didn’t go in. Ended up in a bar called Guns and Roses, no prizes for guessing the theme there. Loads of bars open all night so had a crawl and crashed around 3am.
Day 6 (Sun 1st Feb) Supposed to be up for 6.30am but to hung over. Did just make it for the Chu Chi tunnel tour we booked. (Can’t get visa for Cambodia till tomorrow, have to get it in HCMC so we’ll have to stay here an extra night – BAD! as you’ll find out later). The tunnels were very interesting and a gave a big insight and education on the American and Vietnam war. Our tour guide ‘Hi’, was very funny and informative although his English pronunciation needed a bit of work. He told us a great story on the way there about his plight to have a sun. A son is regarded as being ‘velly velly important’, more important than having a girl. He’s been married 10 years, he’s 27. his first offspring were twin girls, his second – another girl. He didn’t want any more, but the pressure from his father and grandfather to have a boy was to much so they tried again – another girl. After more pressure from his father and grandfather he made them sign an agreement, this was the last time and no more pressure. So fourth time lucky – another pair of twin girls! No one believed him but he showed us the photos. He said he was gutted, but he loves them all velly much. He did spin it out and it was very funny and it passed the time. Cost me a fortune, but I had to buy a round of live machinegun ammo. (M16 maybe, can’t remember but it was big). Obliterated the two targets at about 100 yards and won a HAT! Tim blasted away with an AK 47. Crazy Stuff! Back in Saigon and breakfast at 2pm. Big Spicy pizza, Mmmm! Went for a nap in the afternoon cause I was knacked. Got up around 6.30pm and went to an internet café. Tim never woke up till 8.30pm. Went out for something to eat then got 2 motorbike taxis to the AQ jazz café on the other side of town. They were just closing at 11pm –boring. Walked back via the presidential palace and had the evening pub crawl. Ended up in the Saigon café round the corner from our hotel. Got absolutely blootered and left at about 6.30 in the morning. Went to the room, had a smoke with Tim then staggered round the streets to buy more beer. Finished it in the room and fell unconscious about 9am.
Day 7 (Mon 2nd feb) Woke up about 6pm, missed the whole day, didn’t feel to bad though. Tim had been out exploring all afternoon and taking pictures of the ‘Notre dam Cathedral’ believe it or not. Had a smoke then went out for diner. Forgot the map and literally got lost in Saigon, freaked me right out. It was my fault, the street we started on was a different street than I thought it was, so I kept dragging Tim further and further into unknown territory while telling him how good my sense of direction was. Eventually we managed to double back and found a main road. We’d been wandering about lost for about half an hour though, scary! Had food outside a street kitchen. No one spoke English and we couldn’t understand the menu so it was a lucky dip. Both of us ended up with the same thing like all the other customers. She probably only had the same stuff, don’t know but it was beef a la something and it was very tasty. Went back to the hotel to check map, we’d been miles off track – sorry Tim! Met up with Tim at the local internet café and went out on the Raz. Last night in Saigon, back was killing me so negotiated a back massage in the Saigon café. The girl who did it was obviously a ‘lady of the night’ cause she kept offering extras, (don’t worry Mum, I only had a massage) declined and had to boot her out the room as she wanted money for the ‘Full Service’. Her friend who had appeared, tagged along and went into Tim's to wait. He fell asleep and she nicked his camera and all his money! – NIGHTMARE!
Day 8 (Tues 3rd Feb) Got woken up hanging around 8 am by Tim and had to dash as our bus to ‘Can tho’ left at 8.30am. this was when the pilfering little bitches theft came to light. (Tim thought it was just his old camera at the time. Made the bus and left for Can tho. He sussed out the money thing at lunch time when the bus, -stopped for lunch! She had left all the small denomination money and he hadn’t picked it up. He thought he might be able to get it back on his insurance when we got home. I told him to get his story straight because he’d need a police report and, ‘I took a girl back to my room at 3 o’clock in the morning for a chat, fell asleep, and she nicked all my money!’ probably wouldn’t wash. A LESSON LEARNED! Arrived in Can Tho (Main city in the Mekong Delta) around 2.30pm and got ripped of by an Xe Loi (Two seater covered trailer pulled by a moped) driver who took us to a hotel so he could get his commission. Had a bit of an argument with him and the Hotel people about not taking us to where was agreed. Eventually took us where we wanted to go and charged us four times the agreed price so he got his commission one way or the other. Sorted out some rooms, (opposite where the xe loi dude took us as it happens-oops!) basic but en-suite, air con and clean, about a fiver a night. Tim was still pretty hung over and not a happy bunny as you can understand so he’s staying in tonight. I headed off for some food and a look around. Everywhere around here has got snake, frogs and turtle on the menu – weird! I’ll tell you what snake’s like when and if I try it. We’ve hired a long boat and a guide for a day round the Mekong delta floating markets tomorrow so it’ll be an early night as we’re up at 5.30am.
Day 9 (Wed 4th Feb) Got up at 5.30am – groan, and had a crap coffee – they make it with condensed milk! Met Thil and I presume his son Chang who were captain and crew of our long boat for the day. Paid a bit extra so we could it ourselves. Set up towards the tributaries, canals and mangroves of the Delta. The first market we came to after about 2 hours was very busy, (sore back – may need another massage!) loads of locals on big and small boats selling mainly food. Had another horrible coffee.
Tues 3rd feb: On bus to Can tho , have discovered money missing, journey is 5 hrs in warm and humid weather and got a running nose, sore throat and generally feeling pissed off. Bus stopped half way for hour for food. Did not feel like eating. Glad when bus finally crossed on ferry to Can Tho and we could get a motorcycle rickshaw to waterfront. Sat in café overlooking large silver painted statue of Ho Chi Minh. After beer Keith went looking for hotel, he’s been great about the money and helped out until we can get to an ATM.. Hotel only 200yds away through fruit market. Got two rooms, pretty decent with shared balcony. Booked a 10 hr boat ride round Mekong delta for tomorrow starting at 6.00am to watch sun rise. I decided I needed kip although only 4.30pm. Keith went off for food and look round.
Wed 4th Feb: Up at 5.30am feeling great after long sleep in air conditioned room, had strong coffee with very sweet condensed milk in café over the road plus glass of scented tea. Met our boatman for the day plus Chang his son who was coming along to help out, I’m sure he should have been in school. Taken down to a sloping jetty to board a small open boat rowed by a woman standing up at the back. We had to walk on from the bow; I was a bit unsteady and nearly put her in the water. She rowed use to the bigger boat we were going on. Had the typical long shafted prop with engine moveable and balanced on other end of shaft. With Chang at the bow and his father steering we set off to see the Mekong sunrise. A bit watery as hazy cloud around. Passed all types of boats, junks barges carrying everything from big piles of bricks , earth, to veg and fruit.. Very wide at this point of river but turned up smaller channels to head for floating market. Banks lined with homes, some just falling down shacks on stilts other only a few years old with gardens and a shack presumably for the servants. Bananas, coconut, guava and mango trees lined the banks. Little kids in uniform were cycling or walking along banks to school. All of them waved and shouted hello as we passed. The river and channels were pretty filthy with floating debris and thick black mud on shoreline. Tide going out. People were fishing and harvesting shellfish from the mud. Some were waist deep in it. Reached first market. Loads of large boats selling bulk fruit and veg. Smaller ones like ours weaved slowly in and out buying things. Occasional “river hog” went passed at high speed. Carried on up smaller channels passing little villages. Most of land had houses between fruit and veg plots. In some areas there were loads of domesticated ducks on the water. Didn’t see many chickens though. When channel got very shallow we got out to walk over short cut whilst boat went long way road. Unfortunately as we were guide over particularly smelly fetid black mud ditch Keith’s weight broke log bridge he stepped on and his foot went ankle deep in mud. Didn’t do his 57.00 quid sandals much good. By the by my cheap sandals were bought because I had a blister and since wearing them the blister’s gone. Keith’s were creating blisters on his ankle in Bangkok. Decided to go back to boat and go another way round. Chang washed Keith’s sandal and foot in river, which was good of him.
day 9 cont. The coffee was on the boat, it's only a foot wide. We then just putted along banging into other boats. Headed off to another market about 2 hours away along a canal. got there and it was alot more local, only saw one other western couple. (Well close, they were French, chatty you know!!) bought some bread to nibble on from the market on shore and went to a cafe for beer. (Opps! 10am) headed off to another canal. Stopped off to see rice paddy fields. Well, the boat grounded and we thought we were walking a while cause we (I!) were to heavy then catching the boat up - but no, it was to see the paddy fields. Forgot the tour dude was going to have to make extra dosh by misleading us on the way! Anyway, they would have been nice (only seen about 250,000 of them already) but my weight broke a bridge (they're only wee and light over here you know) and I ended up in crap and Mekong river sludge up to my ankles. It freaked Thil out, the boat dude, and it took half an hour to get to a sort of clean part of the river to wash my feet. The whole delta would be beautiful if it wasn't for the waterways being filled with sewage and plastic rubbish all over the place.-Shame. headed off down through the mangroves and stopped off (un be known to us at first - we thought because the tide was low we were walking again) at a small garden cafe in the middle of nowhere for lunch. The woman who had the garden kept snakes, birds that spoke in English and a monkey. Played with the python before leaving. That was more fun than her food! Started heading back to Can Tho. All this in 10 hours and a very nice day. had too much Vietnamese dong for Tim and I over the next 2 days so had to go out and have a five course meal at a riverside restaurant owned by a French Chef from Toulouse. Did have a couple of courses of snake dishes and a Vietnamese banana split - and very nice it was too. went to a local trendy bar for beer and whuskys then headed back to the hotel. met a crowd of travelers at the hotel, just arrived from Cambodia, so had a few more beers and picked their brains. Info in general was it was the 'Last wild frontier of the east'. Bed about midnight.
Day 10 (Thurs 5th feb): Up early to catch the chicken bus to Chauc Doc for one night. (Caught up on schedule) before going up the river to Cambodia. This time we made our own way to the bus station to buy our tickets and it was about 90p for the 150km trip. The bus driver was a nutter! I was completely off my seat a few times when he was going over bridges and avoiding scooters (small gives way to big and all that) and as usual you cant move an inch without getting mauled to spend money on anything. Arrived Chau Doc around 2pm and started walking Tim in the wrong direction - again! It gets better! A motor bike taxi dude tells us we're walking out into the country side, so asked him and another bike driver to take us both to the Mekong Cafe near the Victoria hotel. No problem he said! MMmmm! So off we went in completely different directions and got split up from Tim. (If I've told him once etc 'GET A PHONE!'). At the cafe I ordered 2 beers and told the driver to 'wait for friend as he has all my money' - I know, not a good idea as Tim's track record shows. So lost in Chau Doc, an unpaid motor bike taxi driver, 2 unpaid beers, no Tim and no money. The driver didn't even know the dude that took Tim. The only constant we'd talked about earlier was how close things were to the Victoria hotel, so I got the driver to pay for the beers and give me a lift there. He then went off looking for Tim or he wasn't going to get paid, plus he was out a couple of beers which were about 5 times the amount of the taxi fare. The place has a population of 150,000. WORRIED! half hour later the 2 of them come come riding up the road with smiles like Cheshire cats. Tim had been all over the place on motor taxis and cyclos and ended up at the place I was originally. Found a hotel. Chau Doc is one of the nicest places we've been already. Would like to stay longer. had a snack at the hotel, nice place overlooking the river. Sitting now having a smoke on the balcony watching the moon come up over the river. Houses on stilts, ferry running, locals busying up and down the river at the end of their day and a full moon - Fantastic!
after keiths smelly foot episode we went through another floating market and then up smaller and smaller channels in the middle of no where until the water was too shallow. Then we dis embarked up a single log on to shore. Me almost crawling up the log gave the locals some merriment as they can run up and down them like gymnasts on the beam. We walked about 1km until reached a house with garden at back full of trees. flowers, large butterflies and small covered areas with tables, stools and hammocks. We were the only people their and had no choice but to have lunch as we had 2hrs to wait for the tide so that the boat could get round. The lady of the house served us and we ate a leasurely meal feeding the grizzley bits to her 2 pet dogs which happened to be close. She also had caged singing and talking birds and a python which we were oblidged to hold and stroke. sure enough the tide rose and of we went on our way back to Cant Tho. Apart from having to stop to de-debris the prop once in a while got back ok. washed and changed out for a meal. Keith replaced phone battery charger he left somewhere for 3 pounds. Keith decided to have 3 meals in resteraunt we went to, including snake. Can Tho people a bit more excitable than HCMC - more our equivalent to Brum. Fruit market still going at 1am. Had been in yuppie bar of the place. We both liked a certain painting on its wall.
Thurs 5th feb: I was up at 7am to have easy time to pack for bus to Chau Doc. Keith up a bit later then headed for bus station on a motor cylo. happened to catch bus which left almost immediately, once theyed loaded on everyone sacks of veg and fruit and the hawkers had disembarked. Total chaos. Bus crawled very slowly out of Can Tho with hawkers jumping on and off. Then as we hit the countryside the driver hit the accelerator and we were in F1 mode. 70mph, hooting horn constantly, swerving round mopeds and anything else, over hump back bridges everyone on board took off from their seats. The pit stops at bus stops took 2secs each time. The pit crew, 2 lads on bus, helped old ladies, little kids and all their baggage on and off in breath taking fashion. the worst bit was that on my side the road ran along side a canal which Ithought I'd be swimming out of. We were soon crammed with people and goods. Best bus trip I've ever had. Reached Chau doc at 1pm and hassled by loads of cyclos. In our wisdom we decided we should walk to a cafe to get away from them. Unfortunately we set off in the wrong direction.
no time for any more regards timDay 10 cont. Went out for diner at the Bay bong resteraunt - good write up in the''Lonely Planet' it was exactly the same menu as the Hotels menu, it just had a different name on it. Wandered about town looking for a bar! NONE - I think they're all in the big hotels. Had some beers on the pavement from a street cafe then everything started closing early. Went back to hotel resteraunt for some beers and to sus out where we were getting off the boat at Phnom Penh in Cambodia. We will find out later if we can get to a hotel without getting lost or ripped off this time. Went to bed early - 11pm.
Day 11 (Fri 6th Feb): Got up 7am, showered and packed, checked the room then checked out. Wandered through the market and bought some bread and fruit for the boat journey. At the pick up point had a mega strong espresso - better ! - no sugar or condesed milk. There were about 20 passengers for the boat (decent covered speed boat) and we all got picked up, with luggage, by dudes on push bikes with little flat bed trailers (about 3ft by 2ft), so had to squeeze on with Tim - tight. Dropped us off at the boat pier and we headed off. Wanted to take photo, but can't find camara! hope it's in main rucksack, thought I checked the room - Oh well! find out later. The Vietnam and Cambodian customs and border on the river were basicly hassle free, though the border police had a job stopping loads of kids from swiming out and clambering on the boat to sell us beer, chewing gum, water etc. Very funny! Only 2 or 3 hours on the boat left but it's very pleasant and the scenery around the Mekong is great. Tims been getting a bad cold and it's progressed to a bad cough. Hope it's not Chicken flu or SARS. Arrived Phnom Penh around 1.30pm, ignored the usual barrage of touts, kids and sellers and went to resteraunt for lunch. Found nice french hotel round the corner and settled in. Bought boat ticket to Siem Reap near Angkor for the 8th, so that hassle was over, then went to Jungle bar for beer. Went back to hotel for shower then played the Chef at pool. (The food in Phnom Penh is supposed to be excellent. We have noticed that all the Kitchens and Chefs are emaculate. It's the first place weve been where the Chefs are always wearing whites). Best of three, I won the first, then got slaughtered 2/1. He was ecstaticly victorious. ent to Thai resteraunt for diner then to Mickies bar for beers. Can't find the 'Globe', it's owned by a guy called Duncan, used toi be in the Psychadelic Furs and has a jam evening.(found out it closed!) Tim went back to hotel and I went out to the night club next door. A frenchman called!- can't remember, anyway it was realy smart inside. I suggested he turn it into a Jazz bar and he agreed. Problem is, he said Ýou find me some Jazz musicians in this town'. Left at 3 am and went to bed.
Day 12 (Sat 7th Feb): Half way through trip. Got up at 9ish and went to travel agent to rent a moterbike! Cost - one pound eighty a day! to be cont.
Day 12 cont. Took a bit of time to sort out. Had to pick it up then come back for Tim. Got it and headed off blind through the city. We were heading 13km out of town to the ‘Killing fields’. Got lost obviously, and after about 30km out of the city tried a few other LOST routes. Eventually turned back. Asked a nice policeman where the fields were and he told us we’d missed the turning miles back. When we found it we realised we’d missed it during a fierce road battle with a huge juggernaut. (Small gives way to big!) Driving a bike through Phnom Penh is not as hairy as HCMC but still a nightmare never the less. Eventually found ‘The Killing fields’, this is a BAD! BAD! Place. The genocide here was worse than the Nazi concentration camps. The Kymer rouge regime wanted to save as many bullets as possible so they just used any tools they could find to cut up and bludgeon the population to death. It is reckoned they slaughtered 1/3rd of the population. Anyone with a religious belief or education. All teachers, business men, artists, doctors etc. that’s why they’ve got such a huge problem building up the country now. There is a huge glass monument in the middle of the fields filled with thousands of skulls, all arranged in rows of sex and age. Totally depressing so didn’t stay to long. The main road to and from the fields is just dust and potholes and if you get stuck behind a bus or lorry you are just covered in orange silt, Lovely! On the way back to Phnom Penh we decided to take the moped back. We realised we’d probably gone a little bit to far so we pulled into a side street to turn round and get across the road to a street on the other side which was heading in the right direction. BUT! There was a policeman on the corner right beside us and we were Nicked! Apparently, not only was the Boulevard we had been riding down for cars only, but the street we turned into was a one way in the opposite direction. We happened to do all this right in front of the bemused copper. We showed him the rental bike business card with the map on it and tried to explain that we were close to the location and had half an hour to return the bike. With the man having no English and obviously no clue how to read a map we just smiled and said our goodbyes, thanking him. Bad move! About three of his uniformed mates turned up and were obviously wanting a bit of green to overlook our traffic offence. Bare in mind everyone else on the road were zooming up and down ignoring all traffic signals. The curse of the white man! In the end we offered them $5. but because there were now four of them they wanted $20. A months wages! The bribe taking plonkers. Later we found out if I’d called the bike rental place and told them what was going on the old bill would have been in serious trouble, but they could have nicked my phone and I didn’t know – They had guns! Sorted the bike out and went to see the Royal Palace. It was just closing, shame I wanted to see the ‘Silver Pagona’ a huge silver floor made up of 5000 silver tiles. Went back to travel agent to see what deals they had on flights for later out of Cambodia. Got a deal of £115 if we booked a flight from Siem Reap to Bangkok then Bangkok to Samui then Samui to Bangkok together. Perfect! All travel arrangements made for the rest of the holiday. Had a spicy pizza and a big pint to celebrate. Went back to the hotel and had a laugh with the bar staff and offered $5 for the excellent tacky pelican cocktail stick dispenser. The girls behind the bar went to ask the boss and came back informing us that $3 would suffice. Grum, Um & Sam, that’s yer holiday pressie sorted. Still before midnight but a bit knackered so went to bed early. Oh! Forgot – went to Jungle Bar earlier for a snack and persuaded the bar maid (for a good tip) to do us a packed bacon, egg and sausage breakfast baguette and drop it off early in the morning at our hotel. She thought a packed breakfast baguette was a great name and she could put it on the menu with delivery for all travellers leaving early in the mornings. Day 13 (Sun 8th Feb) Up at 5.30am and true to her word on the bar was our packed breakfast – good girl! Boarded the speed boat for the 6.5 hour trip to Siem Reap near Angkor, our last stop in Cambodia. Fantastic 3.5 hr trip up the Tonle Sap river then a 3hr trip the length of the Tonle Sap Lake, which is more like a sea. Transferred to long boat for the last stretch as the lake is so low this time of year. The long boat broke down and it took them about an hour to fix it, Pain. We were met on shore by a couple of dudes who new our names as I was stupid enough to give them to a dude on the dock at Phnom Penh who told us it was for a free taxi included on the ticket for the last 10km to Siem Reap from the boat. Mmmm! The taxi was free as long as we stayed in one of the hotels they kept driving around. In the end we got pissed off and gave him a couple of dollars for his trouble. He was not a happy chappy. With head hung low he said he’d paid $5 for the mini van he’d used and we should stay in a hotel of his choice so he could get the commission and we should hire him to be our guide round the temples for the next 3 days. Well! Tough titty – win some lose some. (He’d have done OK cause there was another couple on the mini van with us that had gone for all his guff) Found a restaurant, had a snack and we took turns at nipping round town to find a suitably cheap but cheerful hotel. Twin double room, en-suite with telly, $12, luvely jubbely. Got settled then arranged a Tuk Tuk to go and get our Angkor tickets. Got them and asked the guy (Mhen) to take us there. Climbed a mountain with temple and watched the sunset over Angkor Wat, breathtaking! Out to diner then found a bar called ‘Angkor What?’ brilliant! It was a travellers bar run by a western couple (She was a honey bye the way) who donated 5 cents from every drink bought to the local childrens hospital. Drinking for a good cause! The décor is graffiti from everyone that has ever been in. Shot some pool and got pished. Found a Cambodian night club and watched Tim get chatted up by the local Lady Boy. Had a bit of banter with a mixed drunk group of locals on the next table and then staggered home. Day 14 (Mon 9th Feb) Got up, hungover and late for Mhen (the Tuk Tuk driver) around 9am. I think I was still drunk as I was in a good giggly mood. The first temple we went to see was the Bayon, located within the huge monastic city walls of Angkor Thom. This temple on three tiers is covered with about 56 statue towers of faces – you’ll have to see the photos – superb. Most Pyramid looking temples here are called mountain temples, not because they’re on mountains (although some of them are), but they’re built like mountains. After, we went to see a huge gate way entangled by a huge tree on the edge of the main part of the site. The whole of the Angkor civilisation temple sites cover about 150sq km. I wont bore you with every temple we’re going to see as there’s too many of them and I can’t remember them all anyway. I’ll plot it on a map later. (Also I’m getting fed up spending hours writing this up in a diary then having to type it up on a keyboard with 2 fingers when I don’t even know where most of the letters are, - I’m on holiday! I’ll probably finish the last week or so when I get home.) The rest of the day was spent mostly at Angkor Wat, the biggest and most impressive of all the cities. Had a meal on a terrace in a Vietnamese restaurant then went home bushed cause we had an early start on the bikes the next day. To be cont.